348 Slow Windows Question for 1990 348ts

It’s easy to do your self, threads on it. It’s not always that, sometimes it’s the tracks. Threads on those too. There is a tab that breaks where the windows mounts to the tracks, a rattling window is tell tale sign, it causes the window bind a bit. Threads on that too.

 

Ricambi sells window accelerators

 

Old grease on rails and mechanisms is like glue. First disassemble, clean, degrease, regrease.

 

My windows work way better/faster after applying dry silicone lube to the window seals.

 

Did you just spray the dry silicone down the channels with the door panel on? My passenger one is super slow. Tjanks

 

Yes, I left the door panel on and sprayed all the seals I could reach. I had one window that wouldn’t even open with the door closed and the dry silicone fixed that.

 

the proper way is to clean all the old grease out. it's on my project short list to go in through the outer skin. I think Ratarossa did a video on it once....

 

Surprised no one has mentioned the door wiring yet? Very common problem.

The Amphenol door connector that houses the wiring harness from car to the door very frequently has corroded and almost broken wires in it. This is caused by moisture and repeated stress from the door opening and closing. As this happens, the resistance in the wires increases and the motor slows. Any additional load on the motor caused by misalignment, old grease, etc. will make things even worse.

Nearly broken wires will not only make the motor slow. They also can make the windows not work when the door is in a certain position, or cause the windows to work intermittently.

The window accelerators will help, but they are usually a workaround for the main issue. Check the door connector and fix any broken or nearly broken wires, then lubricate the assembly. You may also want to clean the contacts on the window switches (they pop right out), and ensure the fuses/relay contacts for the circuit are also clean. Adding accelerators / relays won't hurt, but if your wiring is good, they probably aren't needed. If you do add relays, make sure to do so on a properly fused circuit.

My windows were horribly slow, and when I checked the connections in the harness, some of the wires were 90% broken right at the crimp. Re-crimping and terminating the harness alone made the windows work like new again, about 3 sec from up to down. Adding some lubricant to the channel and mechanism smoothed things out even further.

Many of the electrical connectors on these cars lose their conductivity with age and corrosion. Re-seating them will often fix issues temporarily, as will contact cleaner or removing oxidation with an eraser, but when the mechanical pressure of the connector fails, of if a wire is breaking, then re-terminating the wire is the only proper solution.

There are many threads on fchat about all this, along with recommendations for good crimpers, kits, etc. Don't take my word for it.

After owning my car for nearly 19 years now, I can say that electrical connections are easily the #1 issue I've had with my car. Crank and cam sensors, engine bay Amphenol harness, door Amphenol harness, fuses and relay boxes, grounds for the HVAC panels, etc. Fixing the connections is easy once you do a few, and it will greatly reduce the unexpected problems in the future.