Slow Windows

Just got done with the little "fix" tonight and figured I'd post my 2 cents. First, I did not remove the motors. After reading the posts and looking into the door, I decided to NOT mess with the things. What I did however was 1) Get a Birdman fuse box, 2) clean the switch contacts, 3) grease all the rollers (5 each), 4) shoot new grease into the main clutch housing, 5) loosen the tension pulley. Oh, and cleaned up the battery terminals and quick disconnect under the hood. Now, after that, the windows went down quickly, but up was still a struggle.

So, I decided at that point to build Frank's boxes. We couldn't find DPDT relays locally so we bought four 30 amp SPDT relays from the local car stereo shop ($5 each). Then we got project boxes, wire (14 gauge) and connectors from Radio Shack. We deviated a little from his main idea. Instead of an inline fuse from a direct power source we ran a wire from each established fuse point in the fuse box. (Used double spade connectors and "hid" the mod behind the stock connectors). The wire follows the wire bundle so everything looks stock. The ground point we used was the top bolt for the window motor on the door frame. (I like Paul's idea of the grounding strap, but ran out of time.) The box itself was zip tied to the top bar inside the door skin. It works great and cost less than $50 bucks to build. (With left over "stuff" to boot) The windows have NO problems going up at all. They no longer struggle or surge or any of the other problems normally associated with 308s.

Now if I can only get that freaking passenger door lock to work...

 

joe,I had a problem with the passenger door lock too,if you push the knob down and look at the leaver inside you can see by pulling on the left rod it allows the knob to go down,I took a drimmel tool with a grin stone wheel and made a small notch in the leaver now it works great and when I lock the drivers door with a key the passenger door locks electronicly,I'll tell you what,in the next day or so I have to take the panel off to put a new speaker,(the other is shot)I'll post pictures of what I did ,I've should've done that from the start,sorry

 

Thanks for the future pic. But, why the notch? Any idea what is different now than when it worked originally? It sounds like bending the rod back in place would fix it. Is that correct?

 

yes,but top of the rod to the leaver and the knob the notch is so little it was easier than bending the rod,maybe with the pics it'll be more clearer,maybe in time something moved or wore out I'm not sure,but its works great now