So a bunch of questions

The choke bezel is upside down, odd. The label will peel off, they are just glued on but if original they are aluminum and will bend easily. The mechanism is screwed on from under so you should be able to pull the whole thing and turn it (would require pulling that whole top panel of the console) Most folks don't use the choke, with that cable as you've found they sometimes don't release fully off. My '78 I was taught by an old Italian mechanic to not use it and just pump the gas 2-3 times before starting after turning the key on and letting the fuel pump fill things up.

The door handle may have some adjustment, it's just a cable inside the door, they seem to stretch after years of use. Mine used to flop a bit too but I didn't worry about it until I had the door apart.

The rear diaper looks correct for a Euro version. Is yours a true Euro version or has somebody converted the back end (it's more than just the exhaust and diaper).

More pics will help folks help you sort things out. Looks like a clean example though from the bottoms side pic!! Congrats and enjoy!!

 

That looks about right for a 1977 US 308, IIRC. Try a search on "1977 diaper", and read those threads. (If yours is a US version 1977 308GTB, it doesn't have the stock thermal reactor muffler so could explain why the non-stock muffler tips aren't centered in the openings.) Post #33 in this thread has pictures:
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/us-1977-308gtb-exhaust-metal-mesh-cover.631288/page-2
Searching on "thermal reactor" should get you more information, too.

 

Welcome to the loonie bin. You are really going to enjoy the car.

Find the "Spare Parts Catalog" pdf file for your specific car. That is about the best thing we DIYers have for figuring out what is what. You should be able to find the parts and part numbers you are looking for.

The handbrake is very poor on these cars. It only holds the car if parked on a flat surface and if no wind is blowing.

My theory is that it is because the cable is routed through a serpentine metal tube which causes huge fiction on the cable. Others say it is too short of levers on the caliper. Yet others have other theories.

The rear brakes are the same as those used on the Porsche 914/6 and the parking brake on those cars apparently works just fine. I say this just to make you feel bad.

It may just be that they need some lubrication. They are Bowden cables with a stiff wire inside a sheathing.

I believe (but am not sure) that it is possible to install any of those levers the wrong way and still have them work. You might just pull off that cover and see if it looks mounted backwards from the rest of the levers.

There are no adjustments. On other cars, I had grown accustom to heel/toe-ing with the sides of my foot on both the brake and throttle. With the 308 I had to relearn true heel and toe usage.

I have never done it, but I hear it is hard: lots of rivets and glue.

 

Nice! I have a 77 US gtb here too and also do my own tinkering.

Rear latch - thought the latch mech and or the rubber was adjustable, fiddled with mine at one point, I could go take a look later.
The box between the seats - the lock sits flush and my door key opens it…






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For the glove box, do you have more than one door key? If so have you tried both on the box? I ask as I also have TR and I noticed the key I was using did not open the passenger door as it was worn but the spare key did (so I had a new key cut using the key that still worked on both doors!)


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Hopefully this is the right forum to ask a question. New here, and relatively new Ferrari Owner. My car is a 2011 458 Italia. When rolling to a stop, I (sporadically) get this very loud noise, seems to be coming from the rear. It only happens when rolling very slowly and coming to a stop. It seems to stop when the vehicle is at a full stop. I uploaded a video here... would love some thoughts/ideas. I can't tell whether it is brake system or gearbox related. This doesn't happen every time, which makes it more aggravating. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! Pat.

 

The blue dot in the decal between defrost levers supposed to be ontop ( blue top/red bottom). You can use a sharp instrument and peel it out and turn it around. It is glued down. I also have a 77 US GTB and the diaper is correct for the car. Beautiful color. Need more pictures please. Your car has the fiberglass spare tire tub instead the vinyl cover. Curiosity what is the serial number for your car?

 

Makes sense. Mine is September 77 #22707 and it has open fiberglass tub without zipper.

 

The choke cable is it's own assembly, mounted to the underside of the center console. there is no point in desassembling your center console to get to it, as the cable mechanism itself cannot be inverted. flip your decal and it will "work properly", or according to the labeling.

i may be wading into a thing here, but i have also heard that using the choke on a 308 is "undesirable". as the owner of several older cars with chokes and carbs, i have found that chokes are ideal, personally. starting a multi weber-carbed car without a choke is a bit of an art-doable, but easier with a properly working choke. i can't help but think that a properly calibrated choke and carb setup is deal to not using the alternative, but maybe on these particular 4 carb cars it's not so bad.(i have a 308 with virtually no experience behind the wheel of it, so take it with a grain of salt). i have found that techs often tune non-choke carb cars to idle higher than i would prefer, personally(1300-1600 ish, as opposed to closer to 1000). i assume this is compensation for the cold start needing to be just high enough to hold a very slow idle, which usually shakes out at warm to be in that 1300-1600 range.

 

There is rubber bushing/grommet which surrounds the exterior door pull where it goes thru the sheetmetal. Yours very well may not be there.

With completely rebuilt calipers, and new e brake cable, my e-brake works wonderfully, the car won't move on hills.

The chokes work by sliding sleeves up and down inside the throttle bores, which opens a fuel feed slot.

After many years of disuse, they can and will bind.

Whether you use the choke or not, If the sleeves slide currently, I would suggest at least cycling the choke off/on/off fairly regularly.

I don't think repositioning the pedals is a good idea.

Doug

 

Key blanks are available, i think they are made in Oz. They are brass, not steel like the Neimann keys. Have two made, keep eh original someplace safe.
Do forum search.
Doug

 

I recently replace my battery.

Medical advice always is to "lift with the knees, not the back. Do not bend forward."

Yeah right; impossible.

Somehow my back survived.

 

I put an 11 lb Group 24 Li-Ion battery in about a year ago.. it was a piece of cake. It did cost more than a lead acid battery, though.

Doug

 

What brand? Been thinking of doing exactly the same; been using Shorai LiFe batts on Motos for 10 years!

 

Which is why my spare tire lives in the garage.

 

"Which is why my spare tire lives in the garage."

Space saver spare (328) makes it easier...except the part where you have to put the regular tire back in after changing the tire!

 

Does the full size rear tire even fit under the hood? Have always wondered, never tried it.

 

I know on my early '78 a 16" rear would not fit. A 390 or 14" probably would have.

 

Getting off topic, but my '83 16" rear fit. I had a flat & actually did change tires. Though tight going in & getting it back out.