Soft Pedal after bleeding brakes

Well said. I am asking the same question..

 

FBB- Who knows? But can be a problem on Ferraris.

The air fairy?

 

There are 2 bleeding nipples on the master cylinder. One for each circuit, front and rear.
The 2nd one is accessible only once you have removed the carpet.

 

On my manual 360 the clutch bleed nipple is on the right side of the engine/transmission roughly abeam the clutch. I'm pretty sure the manual 430 is identical. You can easily reach it from the top by leaning over the back of the car if it's on the ground; i.e. not up on stands.

The bleed nipple is on a block of metal a bit smaller than a pack of cigarettes, not on a conventional clutch slave cylinder. The "slave cylinder" is combined with the throwout bearing and is located inside the bell housing rather than a conventional, external slave cylinder found on most cars with hydraulic clutches.

It makes sense to bleed the clutch whenever you have your bleeder equipment in use for bleeding the brakes. Be careful not to over torque the bleeder nipple when you're done. Use an 1/8" drive torque wrench. The bleeder blocks are known to crack, so follow the torque specifications in the digital workshop manual.

I don't know anything about the F-1 clutch.

 

1) It's very difficult to view the fluid level in the reservoir, due to opacity of the reservoir bottle

2) It seems like the rate of volume change is not linear. In other words, you bleed a little and nothing seems to happen to the reservoir level, then it suddenly drains down.

Using a power bleeder (mine is from Motive Products), you don't have to worry about this; you can readily see whether or not brake fluid is filling the reservoir.


BTW: Contrary to conventional wisdom, the FWM (G3.02) suggests bleeding the front brakes first.
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Excellent thread !!!
You really helped me guys...
I changed front & rear brake pads and replaced fluids on my 360...
For the first 150 km I was supposed to go easy on the brakes until the brakes "set" ...
I thought that the spongy and long travel feeling would go away but it didn't...
Today I drove to my mechanic, showed him this thread and in minutes he fixed it !!!
Now the brakes "grab" immediately and my car drives amazingly...
The same way the high compression NA engine of our 360 has instant throttle response, the brake need to have an instant response so as to adjust handling by gas pedal and brake !!!

Thanks again for this thread !!

 

BTW: Some manufacturers don't agree with the "go easy" approach:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85

The FWM says to take it easy until accumulating 80-100 Km:
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I had the same problem and we had to plug into computer to run the abs pump to bleed properly. I've been told by a BMW rep that sometimes you can put it in gear and that will fake out the ABS pump(car on lift)

 

Just used this thread to diagnose a long travel, spongy brake pedal after a brake fluid bleed, didn’t even drive a mile cause I knew something was off. Bleeding both nipples on the master cylinder did the trick and now the brake pedal nice and firm.

Only thing I did in addition to what MalibuGuy said was have an assistant pressing the brake pedal while I was at the master cylinder opening and closing both bleeders. Lots of air in one of the lines I was glad to get out.
Thanks fellas!