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Some more air cond questions

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by TK 328, Oct 7, 2007.

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  1. TK 328

    TK 328 Karting

    Dec 24, 2006
    167
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Tony
    #1 TK 328, Oct 7, 2007
    I just got mine back from shop 89 328 GTS york compressor. another $300 bucks for full test compressor off re gass etc etc. It is blowing cool though it is not even warm yet in Australia. We think the gas is slowly leaking from the compressor seals (was brand new 15 months ago, go figure!) even though presure test and vacume test all ok. Just a thought but I noticed how hot the back window gets from the motor.........anyone tinted the back window to any benifit????????? and yes I have taken out adjustable vents near radio to increase flow, I think it has helped a bit?????

    I grabbed a cheep thermometor today from some auto place and put the sensor in the vent, it read as low as about 50F but thats straight from air cond shop so will have to monitor to see if it changes. I think the york will leak again and it will mean more $ for a sanden change. Hell all I want is to not sweat to death on the odd summers day trip to the video store!

    Dont know if you can help but does the air con in a 328 recycle or pull in out side air??? Either way how can I make sure it is recycling for maximum cool cabin?????? any advice appreciated big time. Tone

    It is running R134 as R 12 cant be done here in Australia. Dam ozone layer!!!
    Reply With Quote
     
  2. maurice70

    maurice70 F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
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    Sydney
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    maurice T
    #2 maurice70, Oct 8, 2007
    Tony 50F is too high.It should be around 45 at least depending on ambient temp of course.R12 is still sort of available if you look hard enough though
     
  3. TK 328

    TK 328 Karting

    Dec 24, 2006
    167
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Tony
    #3 TK 328, Oct 8, 2007
    Thanks man, If you know of good places in WA, let me know! I shall see if it does not leak and will go with original specs! I did try and look but got no joy as thats how I wanted to go. Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated.Tone
     
  4. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
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    Mr. Sideways
    #4 No Doubt, Oct 8, 2007


    R134a should be charged by volume, not by sight glass readings - there is no guarantee that the bubbles will disappear from the sight glass, regardless of charge, with R134. Using the manifold gauge method worked fine for R12, but R134a is extremely charge sensitive so forget the sight glass.

    Also, R134a systems will get *colder* as they leak out over time (within reason). If you've got a slow leak after being overpressured and you aren't getting colder, then the problem is "other than r134a."

    You'll want to run between 10-18 PSI on the LOW and 180-240 PSI on the HIGH for cool vent temps around 40F. Test with fan on slowest speed.


    Basics:
    Make sure there are no leaves or junk stuck on the condenser.
    Make sure that your recirculation flap is closed.
    Make sure that you have no air leaks in the air vents/plumbing behind your dash.
     
  5. islandguy

    islandguy Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 12, 2007
    1,439
    Northern CA & NV
    #5 islandguy, Oct 8, 2007
    Temp at the vent should be 38 to 40 deg F.

    You should also check the ducting under the center console. The old flex tubes easily come off. There are also two tooling holes (~1" dia) on either side of the fiberglass portion of the duct (the piece that the vents go into). I found that the temperature increased by 5 deg once I covered these two holes! My assumption is that warm air was being forced into the duct through these holes like a venturi.
     
  6. TK 328

    TK 328 Karting

    Dec 24, 2006
    167
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Tony
    #6 TK 328, Oct 9, 2007
    I am only getting 50f at vent and thats on a cool day, will try that fan on slowest speed thing at check again. done the under dash thing and closed off small side holes already. Can any one tell me how to make sure air is recirculates in a 328 where are the vents that need to be closed etc????? Thanks Tony
     
  7. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2005
    2,800
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    F683
    #7 eulk328, Oct 10, 2007
    There's no recirculation function that I know of (like on more modern cars). That would help explain why the A/C seems challenged in some climates/conditions (always pulling hot outside air in).

     
  8. snj5

    snj5 F1 World Champ

    Feb 22, 2003
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    Russ Turner
    #8 snj5, Oct 10, 2007
    Not sure on 328s, but there is definitely a re-circulate function on Mondials.
     
  9. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2005
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    F683
    #9 eulk328, Oct 10, 2007
    That would not surprise me. They're more civilized and seem to be much more electrically sophisticated/complicated than the 328. As Adrian Monk would say, that's a blessing............ and a curse.

     
  10. snj5

    snj5 F1 World Champ

    Feb 22, 2003
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    Russ Turner
    #10 snj5, Oct 10, 2007
    Brilliant
    ... and so accurate. :)
     
  11. TK 328

    TK 328 Karting

    Dec 24, 2006
    167
    Perth West Australia
    Full Name:
    Tony
    #11 TK 328, Oct 11, 2007
    You guys are spot on, I tried the same temp test on my 97 toyota rav 4 and the temp droped to 41F at the vents and stayed there, that was on the same day the Ferrari only went down to 50F and up to 55F then back to 50F. My guess to is that it only pulls in outside air so with all the other short falls IE lack of vents that aim at your face, engine heat and of course the window green house design, it looks like not much joy for summer drives to the video store.

    If my york compressor does not leak I think my best bet is to seek out some R12 and re-gas if I can get some one to do it.

    Any one turned the dash vents round to aim at face instead of window??? I want to try that but to scared to break them, any step by step guide or photos would be great, that is if it can be done at all. Tony
     

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