Thanks
Muffler/trunk floor heat shield as removed - stainless steel (...heavy) with some corrosion/physical damage, irrelevant to its function: trunk side Image Unavailable, Please Login muffler side: Image Unavailable, Please Login Some areas that touched the sagging, rusty trunk floor and got rusty: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Cleaned-up trunk side Image Unavailable, Please Login muffler side Image Unavailable, Please Login That will be re-used.
Firewall main heat shield - aluminium, 2-part construction, bent, oversprayed, corroded, damaged: Image Unavailable, Please Login small angled section Image Unavailable, Please Login main panel Image Unavailable, Please Login Broken engine mounts = displaced engine = contact damage. Panel flattened: Image Unavailable, Please Login Damage repair: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Repainted with high-heat paint Image Unavailable, Please Login Reassembled Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Potential repro job in the future, but fully functional for the time being.
Firewall rh removable side panel (fuel pump area cover) - aluminium, angled, with bracket Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Disassembled Image Unavailable, Please Login bracket rust-free Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted panel Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login detail Image Unavailable, Please Login Full firewall heat shield set restored: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Starter Motor Heat Shield: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login brackets restoration Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted brackets - deep corrosion! Image Unavailable, Please Login Done Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Alternator/Exhaust heat shield - brackets restored in situ - I had reproduced the heat shield a few years ago: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Done Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
.... more storage damage, evidence of damp and hot weather: Image Unavailable, Please Login luckily only superficial: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I added a helper relay to power the ac clutch to relieve the current on the integrated mini relay of the ecu. It also cuts the ac compressor during cranking as it received power from the permanent pin of the starter relay: Image Unavailable, Please Login previous proof-of-concept wiring (runs from the coils across the firewall to the compressor): Image Unavailable, Please Login final version: Image Unavailable, Please Login ... markings help while you are in there... Image Unavailable, Please Login this setup works very well for both the starter (no more non-starting events) and the ac (no more burned out ecu relay). In case someone wants to add the starter motor relay: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Compressor bracket rubber bushing nla... one in good condition, the other one shot. I got material and craved it out: Image Unavailable, Please Login raw material Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login all 4 ready, 1 original, 1 reproduced and 2 new: Image Unavailable, Please Login
for later - that color code matches the original color of the beige handles quite well - checked in the parts inside the headliner that never saw sun: Image Unavailable, Please Login and a very useful selection of tools... Image Unavailable, Please Login final version of the glove-box wiring with detachable USB socket for servicing without removal of anything else: Image Unavailable, Please Login oil cooler clean-up and fins straightening: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login after Image Unavailable, Please Login masked Image Unavailable, Please Login ready Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New oil cooler hoses needed - orientation of fittings important: Image Unavailable, Please Login Locally made - takes 30 mins on the spot service: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login German hoses, nothing leaks Clutch master...now's the time Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login new one! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login and a new dryer for the ac Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New Brake Master - externally a rather rough part... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login New battery - this is the correct type: Image Unavailable, Please Login That's what I got: Image Unavailable, Please Login Correct AC compressor oil for R134a converted Sanden compressors Image Unavailable, Please Login New hi-lo pressure switch Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Missing rim centering studs replacements arrived Image Unavailable, Please Login These H2 bulbs (front fog/add hi beams) are NOT known in Hongkong - nobody sells them: Image Unavailable, Please Login
AC compressor restoration (more storage damage...) - looks ok-ish from the outside and was fully functional when removed: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login pipe cleanup Image Unavailable, Please Login masking Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted and generally cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login oil change - some residue Image Unavailable, Please Login for the record - ± 90grams retrieved Image Unavailable, Please Login New full charge according to the book Image Unavailable, Please Login Here we go Image Unavailable, Please Login
Decision to pull the head and have a look... new gaskets ordered Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login luckily the correct size was supplied... there are two but the suppliers don't indicate which one they supply... so the valve cover comes off: Image Unavailable, Please Login corrosion on the valve plate... residue in the oil! Image Unavailable, Please Login and in the valve cover Image Unavailable, Please Login surface corrosion only Image Unavailable, Please Login head removal - all very oily, which is good Image Unavailable, Please Login but some corrosion in some cylinders and on top of some pistons Image Unavailable, Please Login head piston side with valves: Image Unavailable, Please Login But it cleans up nicely Image Unavailable, Please Login
Cylinder and Piston clean-up - there is a lot of play in this so I am not worried about the very slight pitting at the moment: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Reassembly with clean parts and lots of oil - head gasket re-used as none was supplied Image Unavailable, Please Login valve plate re-installed - it's indexed Image Unavailable, Please Login new valve cover gasket Image Unavailable, Please Login Done - torquing really slowly to avoid compressing air in the bolt holes and fracturing the block - wiggle the bolts, 1/4 turn, wiggle etc, one by one. Done, ready for installation Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login So, this is an original Sankyo compressor!
I'm curious if you changed out the front shaft seal as well. Mine is leaking and will need that done as soon as I can get to it.
Jack Bag restoration - deep clean & refitting of straps Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Headlamp Restoration - as removed Image Unavailable, Please Login 1 missing dust cap! Image Unavailable, Please Login Hi-lo beam Image Unavailable, Please Login Hi-beam with adapter: Image Unavailable, Please Login Fossil inside Image Unavailable, Please Login Disassembly: Image Unavailable, Please Login Retaining springs: Image Unavailable, Please Login Adjustment screws - some aren't recoverable due to stripped cross slot Image Unavailable, Please Login Nut cages in spring steel - nuts in plastic and stripped - no adjustment possible Image Unavailable, Please Login Headlight wiring looms Image Unavailable, Please Login
Chrome lens retainers cleaned up - front clean, rear as removed Image Unavailable, Please Login Retapping the base frame Image Unavailable, Please Login Wiring looms cleaned up Image Unavailable, Please Login Springs cleaned up Image Unavailable, Please Login Adjustment screws re-manufactured Image Unavailable, Please Login Metal parts chemical corrosion removal Image Unavailable, Please Login Successful Image Unavailable, Please Login Frames repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login Masks repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login Standard nuts fit the cages Image Unavailable, Please Login
Headlamp inserts have external corrosion - removed and protected with anti-corrosion paint: Image Unavailable, Please Login repainted Image Unavailable, Please Login new adjustment screws: Image Unavailable, Please Login frames reassembled Image Unavailable, Please Login and lamp inserts refitted Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login and missing cap sourced Image Unavailable, Please Login and cleaned Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
... when the HT leads return this type of resistance, it's time to replace them - missing sparks a lower revs etc: Image Unavailable, Please Login All the extenders checked out normal (basically 0 resistance) and visual inspections showed no signs of any issue. New parts: Image Unavailable, Please Login 1 damaged end: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login repaired Image Unavailable, Please Login and refitted to the caps: Image Unavailable, Please Login Results incl. resistors (cap to sparkplug) Image Unavailable, Please Login Prepping Image Unavailable, Please Login Installed: Image Unavailable, Please Login and then this: NOS aerial doesn't deploy all 5 segments! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dashboard Restoration - first a backside shot as removed for future reference Image Unavailable, Please Login Instruments, warning lights and switches removal Image Unavailable, Please Login Defroster outlets: Image Unavailable, Please Login Side vent outlet removal with home-made special tool (welding rod...) Image Unavailable, Please Login Centre support (below windshield edge) Image Unavailable, Please Login Cabin air temp sensor and suction pump Image Unavailable, Please Login Lateral face level vent frames - 1 side missing a screw since new...? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Glove box removal Image Unavailable, Please Login
Glove box flap removal Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Side vent duct mount and suction motor mount will remain Image Unavailable, Please Login View around the air distribution and IP corner - quite tight Image Unavailable, Please Login dash mount in the corners will remain as well Image Unavailable, Please Login Zoom on the assembly screws between the upper and lower dash sections Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Disassembled - note the modified washers so they fit into the tight areas Image Unavailable, Please Login IP pod removed Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lower dashboard mounting brackets painted black Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Centre vent "fix" - it had a tendency to pop out aver time: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Covered up: Image Unavailable, Please Login The defroster air distribution air channel had become lose: Image Unavailable, Please Login Removed and cleaned up Image Unavailable, Please Login Refitted with industrial-grade PU adhesive Image Unavailable, Please Login Done Image Unavailable, Please Login It really does rigidify the upper part of the dash!
Fitting the instrument cluster with a spacer to change it's angle towards the driver's line of vision: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Original cluster mounting point were broken: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Cluster fitted with spacer: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login New gap filled with trimmed piece - that's how much tilted the cluster now is: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
