I feel I need to attempt the filter service soon... Do I have to release fuel pressure somewhere? Or do I just have to undo the fittings and let the fuel drain on a cloth?
I did both, and on a cold engine. Open the gas cap to depressurize that side of the system, remove the air filter housing from the injection casting and depress the air measuring plate carfully. Then I placed a rag below the filter and caught the remaining fuel in the line/distributor, while removing the filter slowly.
Not sure, because when we reassembled the fuel system 18 months ago a new fuel filter was used, and it was replaced 6 months ago for the MOT. From the filter, the fuel flows straight to the distributor via a rigid pipe in the wheel arch connected on either side by a flexible pressure hose. Possibly corrosion from that pipe? But then... how did the WUR get polluted as it gets its fuel from the distributor after it passed the first filter? I don't know. I am certainly check that filter again during the next service to see if more debris is being "shipped" or if that was indeed left overs from the restoration process.
Urs - I re-read all 23 pages of the TLC post and was looking for the post you did on installing the windshield, the need for a 4mm shim and the bedding compound and procedure with the illustration - can't find it and used the search function....Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks as always
So - my car didn't start last Tue morning... First time since I own it. Cranked really happily but no combustion whatsoever. Multimeter and diagrams (mine are so good) at hand and a few relays swapped to check them - all well in the front, but the fuel pump wasn't running when I disconnected the safety system and switched the ignition on. Same source but different wire also powers the AAV and WUR, both of which had power. Not the fuel pump. There is only one connector in the line and it's behind the IP on the pax side - and I think that's were the bad contact was. When I wiggled on it and slammed the door (not making this up) the fuel pump came on! Car started right away
The chief garage of Classiche Ferrari in HK did mention your car URS as the most loved car they restored !! At the end of this video .....
Part II: As passenger door slamming isn't really an acceptable procedure to start your car... I investigated why there was problem at the connector C1 housing the fuel pump feed wire. See the dark marks on the brown wire position? Image Unavailable, Please Login Well, that's how it looks when you unplug and unmount it... really not easy to do with the dash in.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I bypassed the connector entirely with an intermediate wire: Image Unavailable, Please Login Engine runs perfectly again. One more check-point for you folks with starting/missing issues that are not ignition related.
After a 4 week break in Europe the car started right up - that was the good news. On the other hand - this showed up, with the obvious result of the AC being inop: Image Unavailable, Please Login Luckily, the lack of gas was quickly traced to a leaking service valve at the compressor. After replacement of the insert, vacuum testing for 30 mins and refilling the AC blows as cold as it should.
Last Monday night, the clutch started to go out in a less than ideal location - at the far bottom end of a busy underground multistory carpark, at office hour end... I managed to get the car out into the stop & go traffic with pumping the pedal before each go or gear change. It kept dripping (bad mobile-phone inage due to harsh back-lighting). Image Unavailable, Please Login 11'000 miles... not a stellar performance for a part that was changed during the rebuild... here how the piston seal looked: Image Unavailable, Please Login I ordered a new one incl. the hose and the car was back on the road Thursday evening, thanks to the availability and fantastic response time at Superformance, DHL delivery quality and Blackbird Ferrari's ability and willingness here to help a customer out who's car got stranded: Image Unavailable, Please Login 2 issues with it though - first one solved with a file. The cylinder body interfered with the hose end, so couldn't be tightened: Image Unavailable, Please Login Second issue is less clear - the pedal's friction point is very low down, it feels like somewhere in the last 20mm before the stroke ends, while the upper travel is loose. Other than that, the clutch action itself is as it should be and yes, bleeding was done correctly. The car is drivable but not as it should be. I can only think of the cylinder diameter being bigger than the original one. I unfortunately did not check the diameter of the new part, which would involve disassembly. Just for information, the Mondial's diameter is 20.64mm, which is what the leaking one measures.
That is not normal, a seal melting like that. Are you sure, when assembled at the time, someone did not use normal grease instead of brake grease ? And when assembled the same time with the master, to be expected that will fail also soon.
I wasn't there but the mechanic who did it is the same that serviced my car since I own it... so my guess is that he didn't make any mistake. But I agree it does look like a chemical reaction - the seal feels ok but is completely eaten away at the outer end: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login The cylinder walls aren't perfect to the touch but there isn't anything there explaining that seal: Image Unavailable, Please Login Maybe one to hone and rebuild with your seal Guido?
Image Unavailable, Please Login I hope you did not use the seal I send you in 2007..... The seal on your picture looks complet different then those that should have being used on my picture.
No I didn't use yours; I bought a "new" cylinder at the time... because your's didn't fit the groove of that piston and the corrosion was quite bad. The current piston's seat diameter is 12.5 and height 5.9mm - would yours fit?
Here are the measurements for the seal I did found on my OEM slave.... ID (this will be a bit bigger when putting it on.) Image Unavailable, Please Login Thickness Image Unavailable, Please Login OD with lip Image Unavailable, Please Login OD without lip Image Unavailable, Please Login It has B3031 number on it. So maybe with this number you can find one in a local brake shop. The seals for master = Seal with lip has B2027 on it ; Donut seal has B1043 on it...this seal can be used but some people tell the ID is to big. Even with a bigger ID it will do its job. Reminder = those seals are for the OEM slave and master....not working for other brands.
Before the pandemic, Priuses were the car of choice for Uber/Lyft drivers in SF. I've had multiple people approach my white Prius at traffic stops and stop just short of getting in.
Clutch friction point update: The pedal gradually returned to normal height after 275 mls since the replacement of the cylinder - I have no idea why as the only thing changed was the cylinder... a lot more pleasant to drive when it bites where it should and with a pedal that isn't loose in its fist travel distance.
... and the aircon lost its charge again... The leak was traced again to the HP charge valve, which seemed to have corrosion around the valve seat. Image Unavailable, Please Login I bought new R12/R134a valve conversions for both valves to not have a similar problem on the other side later: Image Unavailable, Please Login Made in USA Image Unavailable, Please Login Fitted, the system seems to hold now: Image Unavailable, Please Login This however is a bit of a concern - maybe the front seal is leaking? Image Unavailable, Please Login
The central locking system started acting up - not locking or unlocking consistently. I suspected the passenger door connector, which didn't look very trustworthy: Image Unavailable, Please Login I marked the wires, opened it up and carefully removed the old wires Image Unavailable, Please Login Refitting wires with the correct colors: Image Unavailable, Please Login That did not solve the problem - I tested the wires from the driver's door over to the passenger door and there was no problem in the wires or the door actuator = problem was in the driver's door sensor... the grey one: Image Unavailable, Please Login As before I had it open before it was easy to open up and the same capacitor I had replaced did look like one side wasn't soldered properly anymore: Image Unavailable, Please Login As I had ordered more of them last time, I decided to replace it instead of just resoldering it Image Unavailable, Please Login For some reason it might have gotten warm? Unsoldered: Image Unavailable, Please Login Refitted; the micro switches check out normal and nothing is visibly out of order: Image Unavailable, Please Login Back in the car it doesn't work. Or only sometimes/partially. Image Unavailable, Please Login When I press the either micro switch and hold the relay closed by hand, the door motor on the other side actually works. I suspect the relay is on the way out - it moves but doesn't seem to transmit enough power. I haven't found a replacement relay so went for the "easy" solution and bought the last NOS actuator in the world - or at least so it felt at the time of paying for it. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I glued the Mondial-specific spacer back on - makes for easier refitting inside the door: Image Unavailable, Please Login Back in the door and everything works perfectly Image Unavailable, Please Login
It makes the pull direction line up with the actuator rod direction. It works without as well. Your car is missing it: Image Unavailable, Please Login
