Some TLC for my QV

Howard would you by any chance have that part number?

 

Thank you - the one I got is off a Peugeot 205, possibly also the 309 without remote.

 

Interesting, thank you. That's a different part!

 

The part in the earlier cars is made by Vachette, a French lock manufacturer. It has different connectors from the Ford part. I wonder if they'd interchange, electrically.

 

I had my car dyno tested with a lambda sonde to get power/torque and AFR information.
I needed to make a special test tube as the test center's was too big for the Mondial's tiny exhaust pipes:

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loaded into the test bay
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strapped in

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The 4 full load tests were run in 4th gear up to the rev limiter; and I requested constant speed in 5th gear at 60, 80, 100, 120 and 140 km/h to see if the car runs rich; the fuel consumption is higher than before the rebuild.

Here the results:
202HP @ 6'700 (officially 235HP @ 7'050) >14% lost
227Nm @ 5'850 (officially 258Nm @ 5'600) > 12% lost

I was told by various people that the original claims were overblown and the results were very good for a relatively high mileage engine (145k). Between the test, there was only minimal differences in the engine output, all very repeatable and consistent.

I have plotted the resulting curves into the following graph - Ferrari curves in fainted colors

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The full load lambda seems pretty good but what about the partial load - shouldn't it be close to 1?
Would that be a WUR adjustment question to get it leaner?
Any expert advice welcome - thanks for your inputs!

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While doing the dyno runs I noticed the tach over-reporting by a lot. The speedo is accurate to 80mph, the highest speed I verified by GPS. To re-calibrate the tach I used the following cross reference chart with the actual rolling radius of my 255/55 R16 rear tires: 316mm as measured on the car at 2.8bar tire pressure. For information, I noted the original TRX related RPM on the first line. Small differences finally.

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Here the pot inside the tach: CW reduces the readout.
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Happy New Year Everyone - good health and safe driving.

The steering developed track rod play again... the roads here ARE consistently bad. As those rods aren't available to my knowledge we measured one:
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We did the 3d data for it:
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And had it reproduced (in Europe)
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The rods were fitted last week and the front end feels tight again.

I also tracked down one of the several resonances emanating from the rear of the car at various rpms. One of the air intake duct screws had fallen out - in fact the original holes line up so poorly that it couldn't be tightened properly, even though it did feel so:
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I noticed that Ferrari had drilled a new hole inside the frame and the body
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Screw fitted - original fix reproduced:
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One other resonance was due to the strakes vibrating inside the forward bracket location when air is passing through combined with the engine rpm - I held them through the open window and voilà the noise was gone. It was not reproducible standing still and revving the engine. I applied a small band of GYSO-Butyl (windshield adhesive) around each bracket to secure them in place. That was successful in killing that resonance:

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The top bracket wasn't sealed yet in the above image. The greenish layer is Dinitrol anti-corrosion protection.

 

The car started to gradually develop WOT loss of power again. Otherwise running perfectly. I removed the WUR and took it apart to check for obstructions/damage.


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It looked spotless inside incl. the fuel cell membrane and the heating element works as it should as well. The lower vacuum diaphragm works and holds tight. So back in it went.

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I also noticed that the WUR section drawing in the workshop is incorrect. Our WUR's vacuum line attaches to the sandwich block and moves the piston up (leaning the engine) while the trottle closes. The WM shows the opposite with the vacuum attached the bottom cover.

I then bought a system/control pressure test gauge to measure the correct operation of the K-Jet:

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I measure according to the book and got the following results
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While going to WOT, the control pressure would drop sharply, indication an enrichment during the rev-up. The measurement do not explain the lack of fuel while opening the throttle when driving. However, this did:

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The main inlet filter on the fuel distributor had started to clog up again. After cleaning, the engine runs perfectly... I am wondering if we are getting dirty fuel or if there is something dissolving upstream in my fuel line...

 

The front fog light switch started to act up again - I had previously repaired iffy connector tabs. Closer inspection showed a broken output PCB, probably due to heat build-up and mechanical strain from the connector pulling/pushing on it:

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As that is no easy repair I replaced the switch for the upcoming MOT.

 

2022 saw the car do exactly 8'000 miles. It just received the annual service with renewal of the Classiche Certificate and passed the annual government technical inspection with flying colours.

 

Hi Mondi Cab

Thanks for your kind words. Those track rods won't fit the t. But other than the track rods themselves your clonk might be due to a worn ball joint on the A arms or track rod?

 

Thanks Gunn - I am thinking about potential PCB repair since the switch and illumination part of it works normally. It's worth saving; these switches aren't available easily. I would have to drill out the connector rivets so I can remove the board from the front of the switch to repair/replace it. Could be an interesting project.

How's your MOND-E-AL going?

 

Great I am looking forward to your updates.