Some TLC for my QV

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I am pretty sure it's the same repro part as other vendors offer.

 

I bought 2 "OEM" rotors (and a brush to replace the burned one) at Ferrari here; they are clearly made from a much better plastic and do include a manufacturing date:

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Refitted:
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Runs nice!

 

Car went for a regular 10'000km service with fluid and filter changes and some other items that needed attention.
I got 4 new engine mounts and a new tank cross feed. With the new mounts and the gear linkage adjusted, there is the correct clearance and shifting is smooth again.

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Photo take before the tank cross feed was replaced:

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Also saw more deterioration on the tank vent pipes so they were replaced as well
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And 3 of the 4 front suspension bushing welds had cracked with the corresponding noises so they were rewelded.
The the loss of power during acceleration re-appeared right after the service. Again, it was due to a dirty inline filter at the fuel distributor. I don't know if that's a gas station problem or something deteriorating upstream? Fuel accumulator maybe? Everything is tight though and holding pressure as it should. I changed it and the engine runs perfectly again.

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The old one:

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I'll clean it up and keep as a get-home spare.

 

I also replaced the driver side door handle. It had visually deteriorated from use and the key turning movements that should have a positive stop at around 45° to the left and right became somewhat vague.
I found a good quality second-hand item at Eurospares and fitted it today. Getting the locking/unlocking linkages in concert with the central door locking sensor is always fun - but it all works as it should now. And it looks neat again ( the surround seat will settle in a bit with use).

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The fuel filler solenoid stopped working with the flap closed a while ago - it would fire with the flap open though... Italian humor?
The other day when I released the flap manually, the solenoid came apart. Put back together and refitted, it works perfectly now.
Thanks to the hole drilled in the plunger, it's super easy to refit.

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Good memory Guido!

 

While my car was parked out in an industrial area of HK it got a light coat of black overspray from a
nearby garage applying chassis paint... I didn't notice until I drove off that night. It was misty and required a few sweeps with the wipers to clear the windshield. I thought. A loud whoosh whoosh resulted in a fairly bright white windshield from the oncoming traffic. Almost no visibility. Very scary. I pulled over and carefully used a new cutter blade to clean off the paint from the windshield. Millions of tiny hard dots:

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Joe from the board here kindly advised me through the process of claying the car, which was a new process for me. Thank you.

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A lot of work but successful:

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The clay bar even got rid of the nasty brownish coat of brake dust on the centre caps!

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Since I was cleaning... I had a closer look at those exhaust tips. I always thought the chrome had come off:

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But - no, it was hardened whatever comes out the tailpipes:
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Success:
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Cleaned up back end looks good again

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Then those things inside broke loose shortly afterward and rattle very very annoyingly...

 

Looks kind of nice when they blow out, this dark silver coating on the inside:

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The engine started to ping (?) under load and since I had leaned the engine (warm control pressure only) I was wondering if it was missing a bit of fuel - there was no direct time correlation between my WUR work and the sound starting. Or is it that exhaust muffler with loose parts inside?

Fuel filter check was the first thing I did and I did find more muck in the inline FD fuel filter - I wonder if something is going somewhere upstream? Or dirty fuel?
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It had no effect on the pinging under load.
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While conducting some test on the engine I did find 2 things, one of which could have an influence on WOT performance:
- The manifold pressure line to the WUR had a leak - fixing it had no influence on the pinging.
- The AAV didn't close when hot
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So, too much air for sure, and impossible to adjust idle correctly, which is a problem I had for a while (cold too high, warm too low). I tested the electrical circuit and it works as it should. I also checked the AAV and it does move between it being in the freezer and then connecting to 12V. Obviously an adjustment issue. I adjusted it to be closed when the engine is hot and voilà, idle adjust perfectly now between 1250 cold and a steady 1000 when warmed up. It did not change anything on the pinging but it's nice to have good idle.

 

Back to the WUR then. When I got it back reconditioned by the specialist, the control pressures were:

system: 5.35 bar > ok
cold (20°C) with vacuum: 2.5 bar > should be 2.2 max, so too lean
warm with vacuum: 3.5 bar > OK but on the rich end
warm w/o vacuum: 3.05 bar > OK but on the lean side (WOT)

The average fuel consumption was 14.5L/100km, way too high.

My conclusion was: It should be richer when cold and leaner when hot, and richer under WOT
Since cold starts where not a problem here as it's rarely below 10°C I concentrated on the warm control
pressure to lower the high fuel consumption

system: 5.4 bar > ok
cold (31°C) with vacuum: 2.6 bar > OK, but on the lean end
warm with vacuum: 3.9 bar > OK, on the lean end
warm w/o vacuum: 3.2 bar > too lean, 3.1 max (WOT)

The average fuel consumption is 13.1L/100km now.

The engine ran nicely, and only just recently the pinging under load developed. I decided to look into the WUR again and see if I can get both the cold control and WOT pressures richer while keeping the warm pressure high to keep the fuel economy.

system: 5.4 bar > ok
cold (23°C) with vacuum: 2.2 bar > OK, in the middle of the range
warm with vacuum: 3.7 bar > OK, on the lean side of the range
warm w/o vacuum: 2.8 bar > OK, on the rich side of the range (WOT)

The engine pulls runs really nicely, starts hot and cold, and - no change to the pinging under load.
Back to the rattles in the muffler?

 

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Here some information re the WUR pressure adjustments:

- warm control pressure is determined by the height of the fuel cell in the body
- cold control pressure is determined by the depth of the bimetal spring post in the body
- WOT control pressure is determined by the screw position on the underside, hidden behind a metal cap.

To access that screw, you need to drill a hole in the bottom cap (on this particular WUR, the bottom side of the vacuum diaphragm is essentially at barometric pressure). I will reseal this hole later. Adjustment is via an Allen key.

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To set it up from scratch it's important that:

1) the fuel cell is far enough out of the body so when you refit to bottom assembly, there is no spring pressure on it at all (the push bar needs to be loose). In my case the fuel cell stood about 5mm proud.

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2) the bimetal spring post must be enough out of the body so that it will not push down on the spring perch when the bottom assembly is fitted. In my case the post stuck out about 3mm.

3) the WOT screw is in until the small spring sits flush with the big spring, basically neutralising it's effect (so the pressure can be lowered from the basic warm control pressure setting)

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I wrote up the procedure to both just measure or do the setup from scratch:

 

Michel you're welcome. You'll need a pressure gauge with tap, vacuum pump, infrared temp gun, a steel rod not bigger in diameter than the bimetal strip post, and a big hammer...
The AAV get adjusted by loosening the small nut and moving it radially toward or away from the centre of the AAV.

 

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This is how I understand the working principle of the WUR.
Please educate me if you see any errors. Thank you.