Some TLC for my QV

Mr Schulz good observation - but in this case (older engine generation) the belts are different from the ones used on the t engine and are fitted correctly. These older Gates high speed belts have a different design and are made from different materials than the (much cheaper) normal V-belts. They are not interchangeable with anything else due to their different sections and angles.

 

Knob painted, looks "original"

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The hex fit needed a little clean-up work with a needle file to make it fit:

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Looks good and works. I will add 1/10mm to the hex size to compensate for some shrinkage of the 3D print resin; ABS in this case. That should make it fit fine without rework.

 

Here's the STP file in case someone would like to mill or print the knob:

 

Stormy weekend here:

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Someone in the past painted over the throttle plate axis end... I really don't like that:

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Cleaned up:

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no leaks in mine!

 

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The interior fan stopped working other than under full power. I checked the pot fuse, which was fine:
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The new power transistor had failed.
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It did emit a very light humming/whining noise recently. I suppose I didn't choose the correct specs. Refitting the original one solved the problem. Luckily it's accessible easily.
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Back to the "sticky" gas pedal: The control curve of the pedal position laver had a slight wear-related dent, which I filed out to regain a smooth curve (dented zone after rework):
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The roller on the throttle plate actuator was badly worn, and had play radially and axially:
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The new roller on the original axis, incl. a washer/screw holding things together:
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Counter nut on the backside
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Back in the car
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It works perfectly now.
So for those of you with a sticky pedal - after checking the free movement of the pedal and cable:
Check for uneven were in the control curve and a "playful" roller.

 

It should read... Check for uneven wear in the control curve and a "playful" roller.

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Soon again:

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I added about 1L of engine oil, that's how much it consumed since the last oil change in September at 152k.
The coolant level hasn't changed, all good.

 

Really??

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The good news is - it does hold air!

 

Then the misfiring started again... occasionally, when cold, but runs on all 8 when warm? Long checking story shortened: HT leads to 5-8 carbonised, literally.
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The clips holding them in place failed and the cables were probably getting too close to the front header.
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New set was ordered on Tuesday lunchtime here and arrived on Thu lunchtime. Thank you, Superformance.
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I installed the leads further away from the heat source this time - less tidy looking but possibly life-extending?
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And yes, ran nice again! Here are the values of things when new, in case someone is interested:
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1.6kOhm/foot for the HT leads, and lead lengths in case someone wants to build his own.

 

A week later - misfiring again!?! Started on Friday night on the way back and got worse but I made it home. tach was running so I didn't suspect bank 5-8/rpm/tdc sensor of that bank. Next morning - clearly only running on 4. Strobe lamp confirmed bank 1-4 had no spark. I ran 5-8 on coil 1-4 and it ran. So coils were good. Checked the 1-4 TDC sensor at the diagnostics plug and it checked out. Here the new value for reference:
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Next under the car to check the ecu connection:
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No tdc signal... wiring issue then between the sensor and the ecu. There is one round plug in that line that had a repair on bank 1-4 (by a previous owner) so I suspected and issue there.
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I undid that part of wiring and ... that repair was not the issue! So must be the plug at the sensor, where there are 2 lines departing (one to the diagnostics plug, which checked out, and one the the ECU connector, which didn't show continuity). Sure it was there:
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This is not perfectly accessible, the insulation is rock hard and the copper obviously brittle... and to make things more interesting - koax wiring.

And it was Sat evening by now. On Sunday morning, I was scheduled for a charity drive for the underprivileged kids, taking the old car ferry around the harbor. I needed the car running.

I tried the hacking into the loom trick - which just showed how fragile the wires are. The rest broke off too:
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All in a garage 35+°C hot and no air flow... I made a bridging cable with small crimp plugs carefully opened up to suit the Marelli/AMP interface and 2 bullet connectors for connecting to the 2x2 original wires:
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Installation was successful
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And sweet she runs again. Then I had to clean her. Long day.
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The left hand fog light (used as a daylight flasher) didn't really light up anymore - just very dim. Grounding issue? Na, dying bulb.
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H2 100W are not available here but I had a spare one left, made by Hella in South Korea, and of the wrong interface dimensions!!!
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Careful use of needle files permitted fitting... but seriously Hella? And they are NOT cheap.

 

So, that rattle over bad roads on the front right that stops when on the brakes is:


Any good ideas how to prevent this?
Brakes work normally, and got plenty of pad thickness left.

 

Correct, and only the inner one. The outer pad is sort of secured by a leaf spring.

Correct, it just sits there.

It seems the distance is quite far (I haven't measured) for any of these products to work.
Reading the descriptions, it looks like they prevent noise when the brakes are applied.
Mine work perfectly, they just rattle when not in use...

Possibly the caliper isn't floating easily enough/needs to be re-centered on the rotor?

 

Guido I had the calipers rebuilt at the time of the restoration, at 132'000. They've only done 28'000 mls in 3.5 years. So they should be alright...

 

That's what I understand is the case on those brakes - there is one piston pushing against the inner pad, and the cylinder housing reaches the the outside and presses that pad onto the rotor.

 

They should be.. same age as the calipers, pads, hoses, master, etc.!

 

I'll have to change tires soon - wear is symmetrical on both front tires but I'll have to check camber and toe. Car drives straight and pulls straight under hard braking but the wear pattern on the inside isn't what I like to see.

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Maybe I'll have to take those roundabouts slower?