Sorting Out Rough Warm Up and Idle on an 87 TR | Page 2 | FerrariChat

Sorting Out Rough Warm Up and Idle on an 87 TR

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by dradambbb, Jan 7, 2018.

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  1. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,123
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #26 Steve Magnusson, Feb 6, 2018
    Yes, you must have the KE-Jet without Lambda (F113B engine) booklet. For Ferrari's description of how the US KE-Jet with Lambda system works, you need to get the supplemental pages D61 to D105 for the TR WSM. The injection ECUs receive the O2 sensor signals, and then they control the current going to the EHAs to keep those signals "in bounds". On the "without Lambda" systems, the injection ECUs don't have/use this extra EHA current control feature.
     
  2. dradambbb

    dradambbb Karting

    Apr 24, 2016
    124
    London
    Full Name:
    Adam
    #27 dradambbb, Feb 18, 2018
    Another day to play with the TR. Today I was checking out the voltage at the Protection Relay.

    I used Steve's instruction from this post https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/87-testarossa-rough-starting.279948/#post-139489879 to bypass starting the engine. In summary, use a jumper cable to connect the permanent 12V from the thick cable bolt on the starter solenoid to the blue/white striped line. This will run the fuel pumps and should lead to 12V at the protection relay.

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    Voltage is measured at the red connector on the Water Thermo-switch. The red connector connects to the bottom of the switch; brown is on top. As stated above, there should be 12V at the connector and I got a value between 11V and 12V. So my protection relay fuse is not blown and it's supplying power to the water thermo-switch.

    Note the location of the crankcase ventilation hose. Normally it passes next to these two connectors. Given that the hose needs to be connected/disconnected from the air cleaner it has potential to disturb these connectors.

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    While I was in the area I noted that there is an insulation wrapped around the end of some other cable. Does anybody know what this was?

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    The summary is that I'm getting voltage from the protection relay, so my warm-up problems must lie elsewhere.
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,123
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #28 Steve Magnusson, Feb 18, 2018
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2018
    Why can it never be something easy :(

    On the electrical side, can only suggest that you continue along with Diagnosis Sheet No. 6. To better complete the test for +12V power (and ground) to run the injection ECUs, unplug one injection ECU, use the "key on + jumper" thing again, and measure the voltage in the unplugged 25-pin harness connector between pin 1 (+12V from the protection relay) and pin 2 (should be ground) = should be +12Vish again. There is a multi-wire swagged ground connection in the wiring harness itself (so anything wrong there could impair the injection ECU operations even if the protection relay was working OK). Then plug that injection ECU back in and unplug the other one and do the same measurement.

    However, I wouldn't mess with anything electrical beyond that until you've resolved: "I've not tried checking the throttle balance yet" -- meaning: equal MAPs with air bypass screws fully closed (700 RPM), equal MAPs with air bypass screws opened some (1000 RPM), mixture setting seems reasonable/controlable (i.e., warm-running and warm idle are OK, but still no cold good cold idle).

    Only thing I can think of is the US version has a cable with the heater and signal wires for the O2 sensors in that area, but the schematics show other differences in the harnesses (so thought/think they would have different harnesses for the different engine families)
     
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