I had a nice conversation recently with a guy who uses his QP3 as a daily driver. He mentioned that they don't like being kept outside in wet weather (I'm glad I found a parking garage spot for it), and mentioned that the stock insulation (in the door panels, trunk, etc) is hydrophilic and has the unfortunate consequence of retaining moisture like a sponge, causing the panels to rust from the inside out (where you can't see it until it's too late). Is this true? Following the Bare Metal Respray thread has got me thinking that before I have mine repainted, I should probably replace all the stock insulation with something else. Since I was planning on cleaning/greasing the window motors anyway along with the electrical door locks, I thought I might as well try a different deadener while I have the door panels off. I've seen people mention Dynamat, Second Skin and others, and wonder what products others have had success with and can recommend. I guess on a QP3 weight isn't as much of an issue as on the GT cars, but I would like something that helps keep noise down to a minimum, if possible. I know it won't help with the wind noise, which is substantial at higher speeds. Cheers, Thor
Hi Thor, You are spot on in your assessment. Maserati used that horrible padding like there was no tomorrow! Dynamat is great stuff. You can buy the same material for a quarter of the Dynamat price. Google "Seal & Peel" it's a winner. Should be available in a store near you. Ciao, George
On second thought, I believe it is called Peel & Seal, found usually in the roofing section. Ciao, George
Peel and Seal is awesome! I restored a 1966 Fairlane a few years ago and I used quite a bit of this product in the doors and under the carpet. Made a huge difference in road noise and the doors clunked shut very solidly. I also installed a very high powered but invisible sound system and Peel and Seal prevented any annoying vibrations and "buzzing" sounds when the volume was cranked up.
I would totally agree with George that the insulation Maserati uses is a sponge durring that era. btw Thor, did you ever rebuild your transmission? Regards Charles
Out of curiosity, anyone knows how to get this "Peel & Seal" product in Europe? maybe online? I'm trying to compare it with Lizard Skin (which unfortunately requires a paint air brush to apply).
I'm going through the same debate (the lizard skin vs. peel and seal or dynamat). The one thing I like about the lizard skin is that it is brushed or sprayed on. I've heard a lot of stories about people peeling off dynamat type materials and there being rust underneath. If you prep the area well before putting in the lizard skin, I bet there are less rust issues. That said, I've not heard of many people taking lizard skin off and can't get a straight answer on how effective lizard skin is vs. dynamat.
Lizard Skin is a whole different animal [pun intended] from Peel & Seal. If you put Peel & Seal over unprotected metal, you are asking for Big Trouble. You have to make sure your surfaces are properly treated for rust prevention with products like Rust Encapsulator or Por 15. I have used Rust Encapsulator for decades with bullet-proof results. Dynamat and Peel & Seal are thermo-acoustic barriers only. Ciao, George
Lizard Skin has two products that can be used with each other, one a noise reducing one and another a heat reducing one. Thus, I'm not sure why you call it a different animal than Peel & Seel unless you mean that they are applied differently.
Lizard Skin is more akin [pun intended ] to Rhino Liner and Rhino Shield. www.rhinoshield.net/ Peel & Seal is like, if not exactly the same as Dynamat. Sounds like they all will get the job done. Ciao, George
Hi Charles, and thanks to everyone for the tips. I've seen similar stuff here (Europe) some years ago when I was building silent PC's, I'd line the inside of the tower cabinet with it to cut down on the noise and vibration. Don't remember where I found it, but I'm sure it's available somewhere, if not via online order from the US (bet the shipping would be murder...) No, I haven't yet tackled the transmission, that's my winter project. Right now I'm trying to negotiate a place to work on the car for a month or two in order to have enough time to do the work in my copious free time (running two businesses, working more than ever making less than ever. Isn't it always the same...). I've been in touch with 727 experts in the US and in Australia, and between them, the videos on YouTube and the 727 rebuild book I should be able to manage it. It's not rocket science, it's a pretty simple and bulletproof design. Best regards, Thor
Hi Thor... I see you mention experts, videos, and a rebuild book for the QPIII auto transmission.. Can you provide some detail info on these (ie: YouTube video and book names plus experts who you conversed with)... Would/could be helpful to the rest of us... Mike
Hi Mike and others, aside from the talented and knowledgable individuals both here and on the ************ forum, I've gotten good advice and info from the following sources: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/torqueflite.html http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/torqueflite-tom-hand.html http://www.mopar1.us/727rebuild/ http://maxwedge.com/articles/transmission-diagnosis.php http://www.727specialist.com/ [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xzJhCBZ1wMY[/ame] (great video series, and Peter at Southwest has been very helpful) http://www.amazon.com/Torqueflite-727-Transmission-Handbook-HP1399/dp/1557883998 Hope this helps. Let me know if you find any additional resources that are helpful or invaluable. Cheers, Thor Note to moderators - why are other (helpful!) marque specific forii censured from this site? Note to readers - PM me for the name of the "other" forum...
This good stuff really should be moved to it's own thread with an appropriate thread title. Hello moderator?
I started a 727A/QP3 transmission rebuild thread a while back, as well as a QP3 catch-all thread - one of those (possibly with a link to the other) might be a more appropriate place than here. Thor
