That looks like the end of the plastic capture piece that holds the fabric to the bar. No crack there.
Out of curiosity, does anybody knows what is the estimate labor time to remove all the hydraulic shocks from the 360 spyder to get them replaced/serviced/repaired and install them back with the MB fluid and prime/bled the system? Just like THIS LINK Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm having the same problem. So just leave the fork in and unscrew the nut that holds the rod to the fork? Do you need to be mindful of how it's threaded?
I am going to be doing my front top cylinder as well but I can’t find anything about how to get out that “e clip” and pin. What’s the trick? Is there a screw holding the pin? I see the piece, but I can’t tell what’s holding it all in there and how it’s supposed to be removed… The instructions I’m reading say to “remove the e-clip.” I’m assuming that means there’s some way of sliding it out and then the pin can be removed too. But I’m not sure if that’s correct and if so, what tool is able to get that pulled out? Any help would be great.
I believe u have to grind down a small groove In the end with a Drexel tool so that you can get something in there to pry the c clip out
I got it figured out. I used a micro flathead screwdriver and some random metal dental pick I keep in my toolbox. I used the pick to rotate the clip so the open side was facing me, then I pushed both sides of the clip with each tool at the same time and it slid right off. Those just happened to be the tools I had that were small enough to poke around in there, I’m sure there are trim tool kits and eclip removal tool kits that are specifically for this, but hey, it worked in 10 seconds. I decided I am going to start posting videos of all these little projects… a picture is worth a thousand words, so videos gotta be worth another then thousand, right? I’m sure whatever I just described sounds way more complicated than it is… haha
I haven't had these issues yet...2004 spider. Great info for when the time comes. Looking forward to the video's
You might have them without knowing it. Open your top to the point where the front section starts to rise, then turn off the key. Look in the pan where the capote is stored and check for oil stains. If you see one or two where the main part of the frame tucks into the pan, then your secondary cylinders are probably leaking. Typically, this starts after the elastics go and cause the secondary cylinders to work extra hard to move that front section into position for the locking cylinder. Removing these cylinders is ridiculously easy and will run about $500 to have both rebuilt. A real DIY job that can save you a bucket of money.
I have done many hydraulic top cylinders (replacing them with rebuilt ones from Top Hydraulics, disassembling and rebuilding them myself using correct seals which is a topic by itself etc) and in addition to the great points above I would like to add that: 1) Splicing is fine, but it substantially reduces the inner diameter of a hydraulic line, a small piece of dirt can plug it up next time so I try to avoid it. Here are some alternatives which do not require fishing out the complete lines for the cylinders which are hard to remove with the lines: - without removing the cylinder to be repaired, try pulling out the piston only or failing that, remove the cylinder and start unclipping the line enough to be able to pull the cylinder out and grab it in a more accessible space/outside the car to pull out the piston - get an inner piston with good seals by pulling it out from a rebuilt Top Hydraulics/Cabriolet Hydraulics cylinder or rebuild it yourself - put the rebuilt piston in 2) If you rebuild the cylinders yourself make sure to use proper cup seals and not o-rings as some people do, I've disassembled "professionally" rebuilt leaking cylinders which had o-rings where the cup seals should be. Never scratch the rod, use proper brass pics and tools (I use Parker Seals tools). When it is necessary to grab the rod in a vice (for example to remove the end "eye"), place the rod between two thick plates of copper before putting it in between the vice jaws. Even if the rod rotates (which is likely considering the torque required to remove the "eye"), the copper will not damage the rod.
I can vouch for Cabriolet Hydraulics in Sarasota, FL Mailed them off on a Monday, got them back Friday.
To remove the clip I bought a set of cheap dental tools, getting in there with a thin pliers and the dental picks did the trick.
elastic bands done approx 2 years ago! I'll look when I get the car back from a clutch change...ouch!
Chaps/chapesses. Has anyone had any issues with the roof bow not going back high enough to allow the fabric roof to glide into the recess where it sits in the open position? If i dont hold the bow top up the roof hits it and stops. However if i hold the bow clear until the roof clears it, the roof will complete its open cycle. I also have to give it the same assistance when closing. I have no leaks from the system, the fabric top is adjusted and square, I've had the pump refurbished thinking it just had lost enough oomph to drive the system at its hardest/highest points, however its still the same. Hyraulic fluid level is spot on and its all been bled through properly. The only logical thing it can be from looking at it if not the pump is the hydraulic rams that push the bow upwards are weak. When it initially lifts it seems to move not quite square, the left side of the bow moves a touch slower than the right. Does anyone know if these Rams are Ferrari made parts or off a Mercedes as some bits seem to be? Any information would be much appreciated.
Sounds to me like it's time to do your elastic bands. There are 14 of them that need periodic replacement. The key sign is the failure of the bar to "shift" on its own so that the fabric folds properly into the tub. It's a simple DIY job that takes a few hours and a few tools. You'll need sewing skills more than anything. I wrote up this long and boring article on how I did it. https://www.ferrari360.org/2020/09/capote-elastic-bands-and-more.html
Interesting information, but it looks like to me that the fabric top is just fine. The problem is what I call the roof bow or the hard cover doesnt appear to lift high enough to allow the fabric roof to drop into the recess. If I pull the bow upwards the 4-5mm it needs, the roof will disappear and the roof cycle will complete. Same on closure. The hard cover bow doesnt raise high enough to allow the fabric top to clear, if I hold it open 4-5 mm, the roof will operate and close with no issues.
I got my front cylinder back from rebuild and installed. Test ran it a few times and everything looks good. Have a concern with regard to bolting down the cylinder to spec. As I've gotten older, I've made it a habit to reference torque specs. In this case, the workshop manual indicates 17Nm. Problem (?) is the aluminum plate is starting to bend and all I can get is 10Nm before the bolts starts turning again. When taking it off, only one of the two sides had a bend.
Hello my friends. The hydraulic cylinders that lift the cover that opens before the top deploys are starting to leak on my 360. I have replaced the front latching one last year using Top H. and splicing the line. These are not the ones that open the top, but the ones that open the body cover. They appear to have the line integrated like the latching one does. Any info on how to remove these would be appreciated. I believe this leak may be why my fuse was blowing as mentioned in another thread.
Sounds strange that a hydraulic leak would cause an electrical issue. There should be hydraulic pressure relief valves if their was a hydraulic lock. How low were your fluid levels? I suppose if the fluid was so low, the pump may have lost its lubrication and froze up (?). For reference... your previous thread https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/another-convertible-top-question.677272/#post-149136830
Well, I am just guessing. The fluid level is about normal. The pistons are not spraying out a lot of fluid, but it is leaking.
Here's my video of the steps to replace the top cylinder. Jump 4 minutes in to skip my explanation of the problem.
Old thread, new question. I replaced the front latch cylinder on my 07 F430 about a year ago through Cabrio Hydraulics. Top has worked fine until a few weeks ago I noticed the secondary cylinders leaking. Sent them out for rebuild again to Cabrio Hydraulics. Removed and replaced then no issues. Topped off the fluid (hardest part lol). Now a slight glitch. The top will not latch closed. Comes close but the latches won't suck the top down as it should. Full open is no issue, cover closes and locks shut. Issue is only upon closing the top. Any ideas?
Possibly air in the system? You may have to cycle it a few times to bleed it out. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
When you say the secondary cylinders I’m assuming you mean the two smaller ones that are also in the canvas portion of the top? If so, my first guess would be some adjustment on those cylinders is needed, specifically where the rods attach. I’d imagine if the nut isn’t turned on the rod to the correct position, that could make the rods either over extended, or in your case, not extend enough, causing the top to not close. It’s really important to note the thread count on the rods so you have them extending the exact same distance as before. And although I haven’t heard of this being an issue, I can imagine that even if you did that, the rods still may need adjusting because I think it’s reasonable to assume that after being rebuilt, they may be slightly different in overall position? Not sure, just an idea.
