Spider top maintenance recommendations

I'm looking forward to seeing the responses to this question, also what maintenance should be done on the mechanical workings of the spider top?

 

By far, the best you can do for the top is to keep the car out of the sun and in the garage when possible. The canvas can use some treatment with a canvas treatment from BMW. The window if fogged up can be polished with Meguiar window polish. The mechanicals can use annual lubrication and hydraulic fluid top off with Mercedes fluid.

Despite regular maintenance, you will have problems with the top.

 

I have a few questions to go along with the op's. But, I know what will happen if I ask. So, I will just wait for the answers. lol

 

I lubricate all the pivot points once a year when I put the top up.

 

I use Sunbrella 303 Convertible top cleaner & Fabric Guard Water Repellent about twice a year.

I also use 3M plastic cleaner on the rear window. It's pretty transparent now, though the top is rarely up. Make sure you mask-off the fabric around the window first. It's tough getting that cleaner out of the fabric if you don't.

I've read about people using toothpaste. I've passed on that one.

I do have to get a decent lubricant for the joints. And I do have to check the reservoir & fill it with MB oil ZH-M if need be. But again, the top is rarely up.

 

That's funny!

Other thoughts:
* Above all else, proceed cautiously and NEVER force the top to do anything. Forcing the mechanism can be a costly mistake.
* If you ever use the emergency switch, first make sure the seats are out of the way.
* Store the car with the top up if it will be sitting for a while.
* Use a high-quality fluid. I use Pentosin CHF11. Others like the Mercedes stuff.
* Keep in mind the clear rear window is not plastic-it's vinyl. I plan to rejuvinate mine with a product from Diamondite for clear vinyl.
* Bleed the system every few years. I had my shop do this 2 years ago, but will likely do it myself next time. Many claim the fluid gels over time.
* Lube the pivot points but do so sparingly. The top frame collapses very close to the carpeted firewall and you don't want grease all over your interior.
* Cycle your top up & down periodically, as long as the temp is over 40-50 dF.
* Never lay anything on the top. Not even a screwdriver.
* Periodically tighten all acessible screws and bolts. It is amazing how fasteners loosen sometimes.

 

One more thought. Try to avoid using the top at all costs because the tops construction and operating mechanisms pretty much SUCK!

 

Also, at least in a 348, check the alignment pins at the front that fit down in the latches. Mine were very loose... they just screw in to tighten.

 

The elastic bands that retract the 2nd bar wears out; easy & cheap fix. Bolt's come loose, & cause the actuators to loose sync. Go over them, especially the one's right next to the doors. Keep fluids topped up. Clean the proxy switches. My car just hit 43K miles and has had these minor issues addressed. I must say the mechanism's can take a beating, Everyone talks about how fragile the system is; I disagree. I can tell you from experience It's a solid built system that can take a beating. Again 43K miles and counting. I don't think my car is the exception.

Don't worry about using the top or not. Enjoy your car & we're all here to answer any question's. We the SPIDER OWNERS and TECHS that are on this board have gone through these issues in one way or another. Listen to those and only those. Everything else is just "hear say fear" that keeps feeding our threads.

Cheers

 

Grab a sense of humor Joe. It won't hurt a bit. :>)

 

I know right? got all worked up
rough Wednesday morning, I need a drink

 

Or a drive! lol

 

I love my car but, my roof to be honest pisses me off. So, I took the opportunity to burst out! lol

 

Easy there, killer. Let that Excedrin work for you.

 

I flushed the system and put all new hydraulic fluid in the system but the rest of the maintenance is very similar to what is mentioned above. The old fluid was a little on the thick side and the top seems to work with a little less stress with the new fluid.

 

lol you guys are to much. However "Excedrin" is so last summer, "Serenity" seems to do the job when I'm in one of those moods. ugh 1st world problems just get to me sometimes.

 

hey everyone. Is there a thread we can send Joe to that soothes. He needs to stretch out for a while and talk about it.....lol

 

Yeah, he needs some time on the couch.

 

we can help dude...what exactly has been the issue.

 

Well for starters. No way will the roof intiate a complete "down" process without poping it up and back. The it will engage and go down. It goes up just fine. But, getting it to catch and go down is a pain.

 

per the book the roof is supposed to be popped open then slide back manually until u here the beep at this point if the elastic in the roof is still good (which it probably isn't) it should be pulling the second roof support back ...if not then you must manually push it back. from here it ought to work just fine especially if it goes back up OK.

 

Thanks because that's exactly what happens and exactly what I have to do.

 

What lubricant do you guys recommend on the top frame? Looking for something that will stay in place and not drip everywhere.

Also looking for a substance to lube the pin receptacles with.

I drove last night with the top up and my goodness it was squeaky.

 

I know what you mean. My Spider is squeaking more than my old fibreglass Lotus. I bought some dry lubricant spray by WD40 to try that. It seems to have a low “aftersmell”. I’ve tried others and they make the car stink like a factory/garage, overpowering the smell of the leather interior.

Note however that I’m not sure if all the squeaking is coming from the roof. The whole body flexes when I’m driving. If I put my fingers between the leather sections near the door hinges as I’m driving, I can feel the body rhythmically flexing even on a relatively smooth road.