Squeaky distributor = surging/misses | FerrariChat

Squeaky distributor = surging/misses

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by 180 Out, Jun 17, 2012.

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  1. 180 Out

    180 Out Formula 3

    Jan 4, 2012
    1,286
    San Leandro, CA
    Full Name:
    Bill Henley
    A problem has returned to my '83 400i automatic, that it had before I bought it in February '12. There are two symptoms. One is that the distributor intermittently emits a rough-throated squeaking sound, rather like the sound a small electric motor will make when it needs a spot of oil. The other is that, under light acceleration and at cruise, the engine hunts or surges.

    What I have done: I took off the distributor cap and removed the rotor. I gave the rotor contacts a shine, using 1000 grit sandpaper. I also cleaned the interior of the distributor cap with a microfiber towel soaked in lacquer thinner. I carefully reassembled the rotor to the shaft and seating and screwed down the cap (three screws).

    One thing I noticed is that the shaft that the rotor sits can be pulled in and out, with at least 1/4" of play. Is this normal?

    (Bonus auto shop tip: if you put the ignition key in "run" position to roll down your car's windows and forget to turn it off, and then you jam a microfiber towel soaked in lacquer thinner inside the distributor cap, you get (a) a nasty electrical shock to your fingers and (b) a spectacular fire (for its size), as the lacquer thinner ignites Also, a burning microfiber towel is hard to extinguish. Stomping on it doesn't work. You'll need a bucket of water.)
     
  2. anxpert

    anxpert Formula Junior

    Mar 4, 2008
    970
    Oceanside, CA
    Full Name:
    Enrique Mar
    Thank you for the tip .... and one from me " After installing an MSD, stay clear of the coil wire , got zapped and I kid you not, my hand hurt for a couple of days .... it packs a WALOP !
     
  3. 180 Out

    180 Out Formula 3

    Jan 4, 2012
    1,286
    San Leandro, CA
    Full Name:
    Bill Henley
    Maybe if I narrow the question, someone will know. Is is normal for the distributor shaft to have 1/4" (1 cm) play: that it freely moves up and down this much, when you pull on it?

    Before I bought the car the seller pointed out the squeaky sound coming from the engine bay. He thought it was the transmission, which had just been serviced. He took it back to the transmission shop. He reported to me that the transmission shop identified the distributor as the source of the squeak. He said they found something loose, and they tightened it. As I recall, he said the loose item was a magnetic something or other. I remember the reference to "magnetic," but not the full explanation. Does anyone have a guess what this loose, squeak inducing, item could be?
     
  4. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner Professional Ferrari Technician

    Dec 29, 2006
    18,221
    Twin Cities
    Full Name:
    Tim Keseluk
    Sounds like a failed bearing in the distributor. Marelli strikes again!

    Careful with flammable solvents around distributors. Twice I've seen the cap blown off of a Jaguar XJS after the distributor was cleaned with carb cleaner and it wasn't allowed to evaporate before the cap was put on. BOOM!
     
  5. 180 Out

    180 Out Formula 3

    Jan 4, 2012
    1,286
    San Leandro, CA
    Full Name:
    Bill Henley
    I spoke to the tech at the transmission shop and he told me what he did was to re-align the distributor cap and tighten it down evenly. It was the rotor hitting the cap that was causing the noise. I will give it a try.

    BTW the tech called the distributor a "magneto." That's where the reference to something "magnetic" came from. I don't know why the man calls a system with an external coil a magneto, but I did not argue the point.
     
  6. 180 Out

    180 Out Formula 3

    Jan 4, 2012
    1,286
    San Leandro, CA
    Full Name:
    Bill Henley
    Last evening I removed the distributor cap again and carefully set it back in place and snugged and tightened the three screws like a surgeon at work. Happily this made the noises go away, and the surging as well. I was pleased. But after I got the oil temp up, I gave it a 6000 rpm burst in 1st and a new high pitched squeal set in at about 5000. Also, the surging has returned.

    I will re-try the off-again, on-again routine on the cap, and hope for the best. But I would appreciate any insight any fellow F-Chatters may have on this problem. I'm sure "throwing parts at it" is the wrong solution. Ricambi's price for all the major dizzie components is "call" -- http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=3324 -- which I take it to mean, call the bank about taking out a second mortgage on your house.

    Also, regarding the end play on the distributor shaft, I measured it with a calipers and it's about 0.1". Is that normal?
     
  7. 166&456

    166&456 Formula 3

    Jul 13, 2010
    1,723
    Amsterdam
    #7 166&456, Jun 20, 2012
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2012
    I bet the surging somes from the play in the bearings of the distributor, leading to inaccurate firing. Looking at that drawing I can see why, those bearing cups (6) with PN 100269 look like very likely candidates for wear, as well as bush (5).
    101617 may be worn out too, but that is probably a standard size bearing you can get anywhere. I would expect it to have another bearing in housing (2) as well, but it is not shown in the picture.
    Hope you've now caught it in time, looks like those cogs (20) and (23) could suffer significantly from prolonged use with bearing play in this area. This play will be seen as left/right play at the rotor finger tip, not up/down. How much play is there left/right?

    I don't know if these parts are oiled or should perhaps also be lubricated with grease. It could be it's just lack of lubrication but that does not explain the misfiring, so I do think there is a bit more wrong than just lack of lube. You may want to dismantle and check for wear first before ordering bits, though. Make sure you note the exact location of the dizzy rotor finger before taking things apart and don't turn the engine after that, so you can reassemble everything at the same angle as it came apart; otherwise timing will be way off. Ignition timing will need to be set for sure after this so know what you're doing or know someone who can do that at your place before you start.

    EDIT: you may probably want to check all small components in there, including (25) - what may look like a simple O- ring might prevent chatter in the dizzy.
     
  8. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner Professional Ferrari Technician

    Dec 29, 2006
    18,221
    Twin Cities
    Full Name:
    Tim Keseluk
    If Marelli distributors aren't your area of expertise I recommend sending it to someone who knows what they're doing. It's not a Rolex but if you screw it up it will cost as much as one to put it back. It needs a visit to a distributor machine to set up the point timing accurately and check the advance curve once the bearings are in.

    Sounds like your tech is either lazy as hell or didn't know that jiggling the cap wouldn't fix it.
     
  9. 180 Out

    180 Out Formula 3

    Jan 4, 2012
    1,286
    San Leandro, CA
    Full Name:
    Bill Henley
    I have decided the distributor and the distributor cap are not the source of the surging or the squeaking sounds described in the original post. Rather, these problems were caused by arcing between the coil tower and the ground post on the coil. Each time this happens the arcing emits a tiny "squeak." At 2,000+ rpm the squeaks blend together into a continuous tone. I believe this arcing also would interfere with a good charge getting to the spark plug in random cylinders, leading to the missing or surging that I was observing.

    If you have an MSD 6A, you will hear this squeaking sound when you do the paperclip test. The paperclip test is MSD's recommended test of whether the unit is working. With the ignition key OFF, you pull the coil wire off the distributor cap and you stick a Phillips screwdriver in the contact and place it 1/4" from a ground, for example a cam cover nut. Then you take a paperclip and bend it into a "U." Then you pull apart the two-wire electronic trigger plug at the MSD unit and stick one end of the "U" into the female half of the connector and you tap the other end of the "U" on the other connector. If the unit is working a spark will jump from the screwdriver to the ground, and it will emit this squeaking sound.

    I reached these conclusions yesterday when my car just quit completely. One theory I had was that the distributor rotor had come loose. I took off the distributor cap and of course the rotor was fine. But I noticed when I moved it back and forth, clockwise-counterclockwise, I could hear that squeak. That was when I noticed the arcing at the coil tower. I rearranged the ground wire connector to maximize the distance of its outer edge from the coil wire boot, and the car started. But it died again and would not restart. So I got an old coil out of my garage -- it is a Pertronix brand coil formerly used in my '65 Mustang -- and swapped it in and the car runs as good as ever.

    BTW the problematic coil is an MSD Blaster 2. I know I'm in a minority but I have had a lot of bad luck with MSD spark boxes and now with this coil. To be fair, the coil problem might be a coil wire problem: that the cable running from the coil to the distributor is the source of the arcing. If the Pertronix coil doesn't repeat the arcing problem, I will tend to think the Blaster 2 was the source. But it could still be the wire. Just to be sure, someday I'll go to the Pick n Pull and get some other wires.
     

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