My brakes squeak and squeal like crazy -- what can be the reason for it? Also, I have an intermittent ABS light, most of the time it's off but sometimes it will come on and stay on for a short while... Could the ABS be related to fluid operating temperature or the brakes being warmed up? Thank you.
My brakes use to squeal. I tried everything. I finally switched to Porterfield recommended here and the problem went away. If it comes back, usually a quick run up to speed & a heavy brake reseats them properly. As to the ABS - I suffer from that. Asking what the ABS computer thought - and it was Right Rear sensor. Be darned if I could find the problem. Sometimes its very prevalent, sometimes it's very rare. I do have another sensor to swap in next time it happens. What it's been doing recently - in tandem with the Brake light or by itself, it'll blink rapidly on & off like there's a short and I was driving over a washboard in the road. Then it stops. This winter I'll trace the wires.
Is the ABS troubleshooting guide in the workshop manual? I'll have a look and see what my car reports. With regards to the brakes -- I think mine are original brembo pads; the car is a CH version which has the larger calipers. Will check to see what's going on but worst case I may need new pads. I think the rotors were done not too long ago.
Mine did this until I replaced both front and rear pads with HAWK ceramic pads and bedded them properly. Now the problem is gone!!!
It's a race car. Sometimes the Brembos squeak and squeal. Once heated up on the track, they won't. Get used to occasional warning lights. I get a CHECK ENGINE 5-8 light when my F355 Challenge has been idling for a while or when the car is going slowly. It goes out once I'm well underway. I once got an occasional ABS light on the track. When it came on, my car seemed to be running off-cam. When it went off, the car ran fine. It turned out to be a corroded ground wire terminal and connecting plug to the alternator. The F355 doesn't like low voltage.
So I'm a little confused...I haven't really looked at the car in detail in the past but today I started to see if I can get ABS codes out of the ECU/etc. First of all, the car has a kill switch and when it's off I turn off the battery connection; I'd assume that overnight this would also clear all the ABS codes so there's nothing to look at this morning. Going through the relays of the braking system however, I was really puzzled to find the configuration shown in the picture below. From the workshop manual, it looks like it should be: 1 -- main relay -- I have this; 2 -- electrical pump relay -- I have this as well; 3 -- ABS control relay -- I have nothing here, nor a corresponding fuse 4 -- diode holder -- should this be a box with diodes in it or I am mis-reading this from the workshop manual? In this area I have a Hella ABS relay 4RB 005 721-01 I also was surprised to find that in the fuse holder for the check system which is right next to 4 above, I had a fuse constantly inserted -- so does this mean that the ABS light that I would see upon power-up was the ABS system reporting everything normal (the light would stay lit)? And how would the ABS system report everything normal when there is no corresponding relay at 3 above? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Separately I found out I have a leak from the pressure switch shown here...area circled in red in my picture is damp and feeling under the big hex-type nut to the left of it is wet.. Has anybody experienced this, is the leak at the switch or at the 3-way block?...I assume when replacing this the fluid must be drained out completely? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The relay at position #3 - I don't have my unit open to check. Sorry. But I can tell you that you put another fuse into #3 as a jumper so that you can read the ABS codes from your dash. You do not leave the fuse in. Turning the car off or disconnecting the power does not flush the codes. The manual tells you how. I forget.
If you can check your car please let me know -- my understanding is that the position #4 is the one which is not populated (either with a relay or a fuse) and that's where you test the codes. Can you check if you have a relay and fuse (both) at #3 or #4?
Here's the workshop manual that shows this location... The location 'D' and 'E' are equivalent to the #4 in my diagram and they are supposed to be empty? Whereas the location 'C' has the ABS relay? Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had/have exact same symptoms as you and i think I know what it is. 3 of them should have a 30amp fuse in and the diagnosis one should ordinarily have no fuse in. However, to get the code you have to put a 10amp fuse in and then switch on the ignition and read the flashes on the dashboard. I would give the area a good clean with brake cleaner and plenty of rags then keep a caerful eye on it to check exactly what is leaking. It may be as simple as tightening the joint. My intermittant ABS light turned out to be the brake/clutch needed bleeding so try bleeding all your calipers - mine started behaving after bleeding one of the rears. The "leak" you have may explain it too as it may allowing air in or causing the pressure in the system to be lost/inconsistent making the ABS light come on
