My 1990 348ts Stalls at stop signs intermittently. It's not every stop, but it does it a couple of times a ride. In addition, i just got a check Engine light: (Cylinders 1- 4) I pulled over and shut down the car. I then restarted after about 10 minutes and it wouldn't start. Finally it did start, and I was able to get home. On my way home the check engine light (Cylinders 1-4) went out. What's this all about? Thank you
Does your car have idle control valves like the one shown on this picture: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you. I haven't the slightest idea on how to do that. Don't you need a diagnostic type of computer like at a dealer?
Remove the covers behind the seats so that you have access to the ecu's. Place the key in the ignition and turn it to the (on) position, but do not start the car. You will see the lights on the instrument panel illuminated. Make sure that the transmission is not in gear. Now start the engine, and let the car idle. Wait for all the engine lights to turn off, then follow the rest of the procedure for pulling the codes. 1. Hold button for 5 seconds, then release, the check engine light illuminate. 2. A 2.5 second long flash and a pause for 2.5 seconds, then engine code flashes begin. 3. The long flash is beginning and end of the code. It repeats the same code, until you move on to the next code 4. Move to next code by holding down the button when the long flash comes on and let go of it in the middle of pause. 5. When done, its all long flashes, push and hold down the button for 10 seconds to clear out the old codes. Hot wire air flow meter 1111 Engine coolant temp sensor 1112 Throttle potentiometer 1113 Lambda sensor 1114 Lambda regulation Additive value for self adaption 1211 Lambda regulation multiplicative value for self adaption 1212 Lambda regulation intake manifold compensation 1212 Valve (or relay for an oil or water cooling fan) 4111 Injection valve 1 1411 Injection valve 2 1413 Injection valve 3 1414 Injection valve 4 1412 RPM sensor 1121 Stroke sensor 4112 Power module not used 4113 Battery voltage 1122 TDC control unit recognition 4114 Secondary air solenoid valve 1123 Purge valve 1124 Catalyzer temp ECU 4121 Catalyzer temp to high 4122 Speedometer signal 4123 Short circuit on idle regulator 1311 Open circuit on idle regulator 1312 No error detected 4444 M.I.L. 1444 Electronic control unit 1313 Compressor connection signal 4131
Wow! I am totally floored! Thank you for making this so easy. I will be able to attempt this over the weekend, and report back. Regards
The check engine light will come on if any of the pins of the idle control valve (ICV) loses contact. You should inspect and clean the pins and sockets at the connector of the ICV for Cylinders 1- 4 and see if this solves the problem.
Thank you. Ok I will do this. So, it is the connection with the gray wire in your photo just behind your red arrow? Just pull it apart and give the contacts a cleaning? Can I put some electro lube on the contacts when done cleaning? I appreciate all your help. I'll report back.
Yes, it is the 3-pin connector having grey wire on my pic. It has a metal clip which you need to push in to release the connector. It is better if you remove the ICV and also inspect its rotary gate (see pic) for free movement. Sometimes, these get gummed-up which can make them sticky and cause problem with idle control. Image Unavailable, Please Login Insert a toothpick into the gap pointed at by the red line and push to the left. You should be able to move the left segment of the valve to the left easily and it should immediately return to its default position when you release it. If not, the valve will need cleaning. As for the electro lube (dielectric grease) on the contacts, it is not really recommended on low pressure contacts like those in the ICV connector. The grease is actually an insulator, it does not make electrical contacts better. The recommended use of this grease is to be applied on rubber boots that enclose connectors for their better sealing. The grease can, however, be applied directly on high pressure contacts like 1/4 in wide male/female spade connectors. For example, the three pin connector on the alternator.
Ok, I can see how it all connects. The photos are very helpful! Thank you. I will tackle this over the weekend when I'm home. I'll let you know what I find. Regards
You can also safely put a 9V battery to the pins and they snap open and snap closed when de-energized. It's how I checked mine.
OK I'm back. I was able to follow the procedures you gave me (thank you again) I also watched the youtube video several times. Here is what I found. There are two ECU access panels on my 1990 348ts. One behind each seat. I'm guessing one for each cylinder bank. I ran the procedure on the right-side ECU access panel. My logic was this is the 1-4 cylinders side that the warning light originally indicated. No codes came up. The 1-4 cylinders light did appear, and blinked as indicated however no codes came up. So, I repeated the process on the left side panel cylinders 5-8 light came on with the same results. No codes. when you get a warning light does it trigger a code? Does this mean there were no codes? Thank you again.
I'm back. I followed your advice and found that the ICV was indeed gunked up! Using the toothpick, to open the valve it closed slowly. After a thorough cleaning, it now snaps shut! like night & day! I also cleaned the contacts. I ran the car about 20 miles with no warning lights, and no stalls. I am now on my way to a local Cars & Coffee meet. Will follow up later. Regards
Second ride had no issues! knock on wood. I guess I should clean up the other side. Cylinders 5-8 ICV as preventative maintenance. Again, thank you.
