STARTING SITTING FIAT DINO

I am not sure that there is anything that you need desperately to worry about, although probably sensible to replace the timing chain and adjust the valve clearances before you do too much with it; Ferrari parts Superformance ferrari dino ferrari v6 ferrari v12 specialists 308 246 206 fiat dino 355 328 or Home: Startseite for parts in Europe. Once you do start it - assuming the fuel pump works - you will probably notice a rather loud and disconcerting mechanical whir/whine at tick over which is far more pronounced on the 2400s than on the 246s. This chain noise is normal and disappears to sound marvellous above 3000 rpm. I would just use a standard oil filter - the UFI ones seem to work fine and are cheap. Re. oil, I have successfully used Mobil 1 for a number of years. Probably change the gear box oil as well as the ZF boxes are rare now. A word of warning if you do change the diff oil, don't use normal EP oils because they will break your diff; only use special LS 80w-90 oil. Good luck!

 

important!! change exhaust valves

 

The above two posters have given good advise, however I would add that you need to consider very carefully the damage that COULD be done, parts such as cranks, heads etc are diffuclt (almost impossible)to come by and eye watering expensive if you do find one.

Engines sitting for long periods with oil in them are prone to detergent corrosion and this can attack big end shells etc. It may start OK but could develop in something more serious.

You have two options, start her up and see if all is OK, or strip and rebuild. I would do the latter, it may save you a lot of heartache.

If you choose the former then in addition I would remove plugs and squirt in a small amount of releasing agent into the bores to help the rings unbind. Check compressions as well. A small camera may help to dig a bit deeper too.

After that its your call.

 

A couple of standard items for starting an engine that has been sitting - once you've changed the oil and filter, remove the spark plugs and spin the engine using the starter to distribute new oil. While you have the spark plugs out, shoot some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders to reduce the initial friction of the rings and burns off immediately.

 

start it up and drive it!!!

you will find that the accel pumps in the carbs are shot, you need new ones. The crud in the distributor is likely solid and preventing the advance weights from moving correctly, disassemble and clean and relube. Check and set the correct valve clearance. Change the oil, oil filters are UFI and Baldwin (make sure to get the -01 Baldwin as the -01 indicates the check valve, Baldwins are available at any parts store, UFI I had to order so I ran the Baldwins for 10+ years). Check the fuel filters and drive it. When I got mine after it sat 12 years I pulled the fuel tank and had it boiled and sealed rather than try to clean the fuel system. I would flush all systems, coolant, brakes, etc.

I would NOT, certainly NOT touch the timing chain, leave it in there. And the debate about changing the valves is kind of like religion or politics, people used to love to tell me my car was a time bomb ready to go off because I still had the sodium valves, but guess what happened when they used to tell me that and I got in the car ? nothing happened except a big smile on my face as I drove off. New owner still has the sodium valves.

Oh and the engines are not similar, they are the same !!! (another popular debate)

 

Quality advice. Re valves etc, one can legislate for the sky to fall or just relax and wait for it to happen; might never... I ran sodium valves in my 2.4 Spider for a number of years (until a loud and expensive bang in Belgium). One thing is for sure though; much better to keep in mind that it's not so much a 'poor man's Ferrari' as a 'rich man's FIAT'. That way you won't become too depressed by the bills..!

 

Replacing gas is fine, but if it's possible look inside (use a scope) and see if there is any corrosion. You can flush the tank out, but if there is corrosion it will work it's way toward your engine.

Make sure you use the proper "old school" oil

 

I happen to have known about the car in question for some time and it is nice to see that someone has scooped it up and is trying to bring it back to life. I think there is a lot of good advice here and I believe that it is not necessary to pull the engine apart. Some good preventative maintenance like new hoses and fresh oil, along with some good checks prior to starting is all I would do. These engines are pretty tough and it is not necessary to be overly cautious.