My 87 tr sometimes will just click and not turn over. Any body know the repair for the problem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
or bad connection somewhere check the voltage + and - at the battery and also at the starter solenoid before changing some
In addition to maybe needing a new/better solenoid -- see post #7 in this thread for the other connection locations in the white wire path (w connector, y connector, C11 connector) that can cause trouble in the start command signal getting from the ignition switch terminal 50 to the solenoid terminal 50: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/ace-electric.106848/ (You'll need to right click on the pictures and select "Open Link in New Window" to view them at a larger scale.)
That can be made to work, but it has some downsides -- for example, if the relay fails, the starter can stay engaged with the engine running (and probably damage the ring gear), and adding more wiring complexity isn't a plus IMO. Also, the typical relay used is not really rugged enough to by mounted in the difficult under-engine-bonnet environment on top of a hot engine (and a relay that is rugged enough is a big beasty thing). Far better to add a jumper wire from the white wire in the w connector to the white wire in the y connector to bypass those chessy terminals (that are way under-designed for carrying the big inrush current a solenoid draws). The spade connector in the C11 connector isn't as bad a design and just unplugging/reseating it would do a lot of goodness for a long time, if necessary.
I had the extra relay in the 512TR for 8 years .... and it never failed me .... Allways started immediately ....
For an extra starting relay see # 2 https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/sticky-mondial-8-qv-3-2-t-repair-thread.209843/ Guido
Doesn't sound like a solenoid problem to me. The non-start issue fixed with a relay is due to heat, and there's no clicking there. Theres no sound. I think your problem is upstream from the relay. Bad battery or cables. Have you checked that your battery works *under load*? Just take it to an auto parts store, they'll test it for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
And also, check out this thread on what can go wrong when the wrong type of relay is used (FYI: mine was originally installed *BY THE FERRARI DEALER*): https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/whoooooa-weird-starter-problem.492538/
I can’t speak for the TR but on a 512TR the accessories relay ‘S’ has it’s coil gnd connected to the starter circuit so that the ‘S’ relay deactivates all accessories while starting. This is why the white starter wire enters and exits the fuse board and the low resistance starter solenoid provides the path to gnd for the ‘S’ relay coil when the starter is off. The + side of the ‘S’ relay coil is always at battery voltage and this is where the +12V bleed problems are if you add an extra starter relay. With a starter relay, the circuit is two relay coils in series across the battery when the starter is off. You want the ‘S’ relay on and the starter relay off when the starter is not engaged! This cannot be guaranteed, it *might* work most of the time depending on the impedance of the coil in the starter relay you choose. Adding a starter relay could work if you disconnect the ‘S’ relay coil from the starter circuit, bypassing the fuse board for example but then you need another relay to switch the ‘S’ relay coil off when starting. I’m amazed the dealer added this... Andrew
Here’s a drawing of the circuit if what I said above wasn’t clear... (with no starter relay) Maybe Steve or soneone can comment if the TR is the same circuit? Image Unavailable, Please Login
No, that "turn off relay S when starting" refinement (which is really rather clever IMO) was implemented on the 512TR and is not present on a TR -- and you are spot on to say it further complicates adding the auxiliary "starting" relay to a 512TR as having a reliably working relay S is kind of important
Yep, it’s certainly a clever disable. I bet the dealer Joe went to just assumed the 512TR starter cicuit was the same as the TR. Summary of advice on adding a starter relay: TR good, 512TR bad.
I have a Testarossa, and the relay worked (solved the hot start problem), but it was the absolute WRONG kind of relay to put in an engine compartment. The kind of relay the dealer used belongs on the fusebox (ie, open in back), not sealed. Some water got in to the relay they used and shorted it out. My starter engaged when the car was running. Luckily when it was just idling and I was able to get it to stop after removing the battery cable ( ! ) I replaced their relay with one that can handle the rigors of an engine bay and it has worked fine ever since (knock on wood).
But ... first find out about the voltage and power that reaches (or not !) the solenoid. You may find the actual problem there ...