Yeah ketel, what are your coolant temps?
Post #55 also ruled out any assist from Gee Zus as well, so good company to be in. Or maybe I mis-read the post.
Again, Ketel was very clear in pos #55. He concisely indicated whose "help" he did not need. Regarding Gee Zus, I don't doubt he is tired of all the bickering on both sides of the issue.
My final suggestion. Ketel, you place your faith in DH by buying the kit. Call him and ask him what to do next. Keep it to yourself and get your car fixed.
Ketel, I hope you get this figured out soon. Please, despite all the bickering that has occurred, inform us when you figure out the solution. Too many threads end without the OP posting what finally corrected the CEL/ Codes. Good luck!!
Wow, I step away from this thread for 48 hours and it's bedlam again. Where to begin... Ok, as to the coolant temps, it has been in the proper operating temp range, so not sure that is the issue but I plan to drive her again today and will pay extra attention to it. As to the 02 sensors, I have not run that test as yet. Now I will. With or without that test I will probably replace them anyway since they are likely quite old now (given what I found in the PO's service records) and would cost less than and hour or so at the mechanic's. Cheap insurance IMHO. Another path I will go down today is researching what cats I have. Service records indicate they were replaced a couple years back. No mention if they were OEM or not. I will jack the car today and investigate. One thing I mentioned earlier is that I found a thermocouple tied off with a zip tie dangling off the rear passenger side of the vehicle's engine bay. Obviously some gerryrigging went on at some point and it might have a bearing with these SD lights and CELs. As to the current batch of codes, they have remained relatively stable. They are: 1448 1449 0341 0132 0152 1115 1117 1119 0137 0158 1121 1454 ketel
Amazon has the O2 sensors. Bosch 13819 - pre cat Bosch 13820 - post cat If you have thermocouple unplugged it is certainly one of your codes. Make sure someone has not swapped the themocouple / ecu connections for the pass side cat and the by pass valve...mine were reversed and caused all kinds of weird stuff until I swapped them back.
Post a quick snapshot of your cats. Originals are easy to discern from aftermarket. Either way, its pretty easy to disconnect the exhaust and look into the outlet of each cat to see if the cores are intact.
Here are photos of my standard running temps for both the oil and water temp gauges. I took this over the course of a 40+ mile drive while vehicle was running for some time, so it is a good an indication of how the vehicle runs normally under normal conditions. Thoughts? ketel Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks about the same as my car. If you stop and an just let the car idle, like driving in traffic, does the water temp get up to 190-195? Mine does, and at that point the driver's side fan begins to cycle. Actually, the way the tem varies in my 355 is almost exactly the same as it does in my 308.
Isn't it normal for the hand to stay at the middle if everything is normal? I mean that for every gauge (no matter what it is for). I guess that everything up to the middle is OK and everything after that (with little exceptions) is bad. For sure at these pics everything seems absolutely normal.
Oil temp looks okay, but your coolant temp is too cold. The needle for the coolant should be right on 190°, especially since you had been driving for 40+ miles. My vote is a bad thermostat. Here is the DIY for a 348 to swap it out http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/385608-348-thermostat-removal.html the procedure is virtually the same on a 355.
I think your car is running too cold. The water temp should not get cooler then one tick over the right side of the mark it's currently showing on your gauge. I would suspect you have one of those defective water thermostats that many of us got when we did our major services around the 2009/2010 time frame.
Coolant temp too low, engine management always thinks it's warming up. Needs a thermostat. Yours has failed (open). Should get rid of cat temp problems.
Well that sure seems like a unanimous consensus. My 355 gauges (spider) are never that low after full warm up and driving. Good luck Ketel.
The above responses are correct if he was in traffic but I have a feeling that these pics were taken while the car was moving for some time in which case the temps are normal.
I would not be so quick to judge the actual engine temp based on the gage. I do agree that if accurate it might be a little cool. That is why I asked if the car gets to 190 if it idles in traffic and if the driver's side fan cycles. But the gage reading and sending unit have nothing to do with the ECU or controlling mixture. The thermostat is suppose to start to open around 179*F +/-3* and the fan is suppose of come on at 190* and go off at about 179*. The ECU gets it's signal about engine temp from the coolant temp sensor. Before I started tearing the engine apart to replace the thermostat I would monitor the impedance of the coolant temp sensor. If the coolant is 180 degrees or more the impedance should be less than 300 ohms. Additional, I don't not believe that the mixture is simply rich/lean but varies continuously with engine tem. If it's running a little cool I do not believe the ECU mapping would be at full rich. And let's not forget ketel's comment, "... One thing I mentioned earlier is that I found a thermocouple tied off with a zip tie dangling off the rear passenger side of the vehicle's engine bay." [edit] Gerry D. Was writing when you posted. For once I think we pretty much agree. [edit 2] Just a note about the cat over heat. Again, I'm not convinced that running rich would necessarily result in that. I have a related experience. My car had a bad CTS which was telling the ECU the car was stone cold all the time. This resulted in HC being well over the limit at emissions. However, I never got a SDL or a cat temp to high code.
My 95 355 would be ok in warm temps. In temps below 60 degrees on the highway water temps would be 160. On a warm day it would read like your picture. Thermostat was bad and went through two of them before one worked. Now on even a 40 degree day on the highway water temp is 180, to the right of the gauge mark. Many of these thermostats are bad and there is even the same posts in the 360 section.
I disagree. A properly operating thermostat and cooling system will keep the engine at constant temperature.
My 355 temps are similar to what johnk details. Depending on outside temp close to the mid-point of the gauge. Fan comes on at 190. If I recall correctly Gothspeed conducted a survey to determine coolant temps for 355s. I believe his opinion was the gauge should read close to center in normal operating conditions.
When moving the temps drop especially above 80kmh. There is a good thread by Goth on this. Here they are http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/407606-ferrari-355-slow-down-light.html http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/348-355/377706-355-owners-only-more-data-samples-needed-anonymous-poll.html
