Steering column switch assembly

Did you disconnect the three cable plugs?

Once disconnected you have to feed the black cable cover through the black housing

I believe the black housing is also secured with one screw to the steering column.



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You have to remove the whole plastic (serial number) thing along with the harness.

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Remove the headlight knob. Put a plastic bag over the assembly, (to catch the spring-loaded detent ball). Hold the knob and hold the stalk and pull the knob straight off. Look at the soldering on the contacts and make sure they are totally intact. There are two types of contacts inside the knob. Wrap around (earlier models) and two copper blades that pinch together. Clean the contact areas with very fine sandpaper.

When you reassemble it, put some grease in the hole where the detent spring is and place the ball on the grease, take the knob and line up the molded line on the knob with the scribed line on the stalk. This is the proper alignment. Sometimes, the ball will shift when you put on the knob and you won't get a "click" or positive feel of the detent. Once assembled, check for continuity with a meter.

Check the switch for hairline cracks where the metal stalks enter the plastic contact holders.

If there are no cracks, I'd suggest a good cleaning. First, use a toothbrush and some mineral spirits to remove the grease from the contacts. Then use some very fine sandpaper to clean the contact surfaces to remove any oxidation. The bottom, round contacts can be cleaned by moving the stalk first toward the inside, which exposes half the contacts, then towards the outside, which exposes the other half.

The upper contacts are spring loaded and push against the round contacts. Again, a very fine sandpaper should remove any oxidation.

Once the contacts are clean apply a light grease to allow the spring loaded contacts to operate smoothly as they move over the round contacts and to prevent further oxidation.

You can also degrease and clean the horn contacts. (Several different versions)

Clean the spades at the 3 connectors and clean the corresponding female connectors to insure good electrical contact.

When you reassemble the inner part into the black housing pull the cable little by little until the switch settles in the housing, then secure the two screws and wave washers.

 

Pretty standard repair for the horn wire

Now that you know about the headlight stalk cracks, you can monitor it to see if it becomes more loose. If it gets worse, the loose movement of the stalk will not fully move the pivot head/contact holder and headlight function will be compromised. Always move it with care.

Verell at unobtainiumsupply,com can mold new parts and rebuild it if it totally fails.

 

I had the same problem before where it started as a small hairline crack then years later it finally broke off so I decided to take it apart and repair it. This is the epoxy I use and it works great.

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