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Steering Rack Bushing Change Question

Discussion in '308/328' started by Low Ride, Jan 7, 2011.

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  1. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

    Jan 20, 2010
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    Ontario, Canada
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    Guido Benvenuto
    #1 Low Ride, Jan 7, 2011
    Wondering if anyone has ever changed the bushings on the steering rack without removal of the rack? I'm getting some play in the rack that is coming from movement of the entire rack. I can take the the bolts off that fix the rack to the cross member. If I remove the bolts supporting the rack, is there enough play in the steering column shaft that the rack will drop a bit so that I can take out the bushings? Would I need to disconnect the steering column shaft from the rack so that it could drop enough? I guess I don't want to disconnet the tie rod ends since I think it will make a bigger mess! Any insight would be helpful. If I have to disconnect the steering column shaft, then I could certainly turn the wheels so that the steering rack brackets can move off the mounts allowing access but will this cause more problems? Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. chris_columbia

    chris_columbia Formula Junior
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    #2 chris_columbia, Jan 7, 2011
    Never thought to try it that way, but I guess it could work if you can pivot the rack about the axis of the steering rack input. That would raise and lower each mount, so you might be able to pull them out. If that doesn't work, it is only one bolt holding the rack to the steering column input. It's hard to get to. I cheated and took out the spare tire bin(took about 2 hours). Even with that out, I remember the rack-to-column bolt was akward to remove.

    BTW, I had the same loose steering problem, and replaced the bushings with hard plastic(acetal/delrin). Works great. There is a tread in here somewhere with the print. I didn't want to risk buying the stock rubber ones since I thought they might still flex some.
     
  3. chris_columbia

    chris_columbia Formula Junior
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    #3 chris_columbia, Jan 7, 2011
  4. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

    Jan 20, 2010
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    Guido Benvenuto
    #4 Low Ride, Jan 7, 2011
    Yes...I say your thread. Excellent information. I looked into making them but found a harder compound and already purchased them. I looked at taking out the spare tire bin but wow...all those rivets! Do you think the rack has a couple inches of wiggle room without disconnecting the steering column? If I do disconnect the steering column, is there some special allignment procedure to reconnect it? Lastly, when the column is disconnected, will the column shaft slip "up" to come off the rack or must the rack be disconnected to allow it to drop?
     
  5. stev4266

    stev4266 Karting

    Mar 24, 2010
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    #5 stev4266, Jan 7, 2011
    the bolt to remove the steering column shaft is easy to remove if you remove the left side front wheel. If you mark the shaft and put it back on the mark when your done you should be ok. Taking the whole steering rack out of the car is not that hard. If you do it your way please post the results.
     
  6. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

    Jan 20, 2010
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    Guido Benvenuto
    #6 Low Ride, Jan 7, 2011
    Good suggestion. I will mark the shaft if I need to disconnect it. I will give this a try over the weekend and let everyone know how I make out. Thanks for the help.
     
  7. ramosel

    ramosel Formula 3

    Sep 11, 2004
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    #7 ramosel, Jan 8, 2011
    Be aware there is also a bushing INSIDE the rack that can cause all sorts of clunking and sloppiness. The factory bushing on the passenger side (internal) is plastic and gets smashed to bits. There are replacements out there in Oilite Bronze that are basically a lifetime fix.

    Rick
     
  8. ramosel

    ramosel Formula 3

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    #8 ramosel, Jan 8, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Note that Steve said REMOVE the bolt. Don't just loosen it. The bolt passes through the knuckle and a groove in the shaft. Loosening the bolt will not allow you get the knuckle off the rack input shaft.

    Rick
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  9. chris_columbia

    chris_columbia Formula Junior
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    #9 chris_columbia, Jan 9, 2011
    As Rick pointed out. Make sure you check the passenger side internal bushing. The best way is to take the front passenger wheel off, disconnect tie-rod, and see if you can move the rack output much. Or better yet take the rack out and test it on a vice. I spent a lot of time taking my rack apart "just to be sure" and the internal bushing was fine.

    A 2nd option is to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, lift the front passanger wheel off the ground and grab the rack output, and see if it has play.
     
  10. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

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    #10 Low Ride, Jan 9, 2011
    Thanks for all the tips. Just an update that I got pulled to other "things to do" list and couldn't complete the job. I will tackle it next weekend a post a follow-up note on how it went. Thanks again.
     
  11. fiatbrett

    fiatbrett Karting

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    #11 fiatbrett, Jan 11, 2011
    I don't know if you have already seen, but there is a great step by step video illustrating the removal of a steering rack from a 308 QV. It may have provide some tips for you.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMMju5OSn7s[/ame]
     
  12. flyngti

    flyngti Formula 3

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    #12 flyngti, Jan 11, 2011
    Great find! I'm definitely bookmarking that one.
     
  13. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

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    #13 Low Ride, Jan 17, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Well, the job got done and I wanted to share the experiance. If you recall, I wanted to change the bushings without removing the rack. It turns out that it can be done and the rack doesn't have to be disconnected from the steering shaft. It has enough movement to get the brackets off except you really have to have patients since there is very little room to get the bolts off. Working from the side and bottom is best therefore the spare tire compartment does not have to be opened. The only thing that is a requirement is that the rachet must have a swivel handle as shown in the picture. New bushings are in a everything seems well. I am very surprized and wonder is anyone else who changed the bushing experianced a dramatic change in steering feel (I assume this is just in my mind). The original reason I wanted these changed is that the allignment guys told me there is too much play and would not allign until I had this fixed. Thanks to all for the advice along the way.
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  14. bill brooks

    bill brooks F1 Veteran
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    #14 bill brooks, Jan 17, 2011
    i'm considering this same operation this winter.

    where did you get the bushings and are they of stock durometer or something firmer?

    did you remove both clamps simultaneously, or did you leave one clamp fastened to
    help hold the rack assembly in place while working on the other clamp?
     
  15. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

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    #15 Low Ride, Jan 17, 2011
    I took both brackets off at the same time. You will need a short 13mm wrench since the bolts that clamp the rack to the brackets are trapped in the ribs and you have limited movement. I also used a short 2x4 to support the rack while it was hanging loose. There is enough play at the steering shaft connection in order to move it around. Again, lots of patients and small finger help! I got the bushings from Brian Keegan at Ferrparts...awesome resource!
     
  16. Rock

    Rock Formula 3

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    #16 Rock, Jan 17, 2011
    low ride where are you in canada?
     
  17. Low Ride

    Low Ride Karting

    Jan 20, 2010
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    Guido Benvenuto
    #17 Low Ride, Jan 18, 2011
    Windsor, Ontario (across the river from Detroit).
     

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