Steering Rack Removal & Refurb

It's easier to undo the counternut of the track rod ends while they are still on the car.
Because they are supported by the steering arm.
If you have your complete rack on the bench you have to lock the track rod end somehow, while undoing the counternut.
Of course not much more difficult. Two wrenches, a bench vise, a second pair of hands, etc. But like said, it's easier on the car.
I didn't watch the whole video, but two points from me:
I would remove the battery.
Since you plan to replace your track rod ends, I wouldn't mistreat the track rods with vise grips. I would just loosen it and completely undo it after removal from the steering arm. You will need a good ball-joint puller for this.


Best Regards
Martin

 

if you are going to strip down the rack there is a very detailed description of re-shimming etc in the Lotus Elan manual which I could scan if interested.

There is lots of info online though as pretty much every British car of the era used these racks. Triumph Spitfire, Herald, Mini etc etc. The bushes in the ends which wear are available from any Lotus, Triumph etc parts supplier.

I would personally remove the rack with the track rod ends attached otherwise you will be trying to deal with splitting out the ball joints with the suspension corner waving around all over the place.

 

I did my rack a little over a year ago. I used the Pantera instructions and used the bronze olite bushing. It all worked well.

The ball joints are actually quite easy to remove. I thought they would be harder but they are really not that tight. First, drill out the pin that is pushed in between the two halves, take your pin spanner and you should be good to go. The pin is pretty easy to drill out but both metals are pretty soft so just take it easy.

I also found the rack pretty easy to remove from the drivers side wheel well. You can unbolt it from underneath and from the opening to access the battery in the spare tire well. No need to remove the tub for the spare tire. You just need to rotate it a little when sliding it out.

In the end, it was all easier than I anticipated.

 

I thought, up to now, Andy was talking about the track rod ends, but:

Talking about the ball joints between the rack and the track rods; There are different versions for securing the nuts. One like you described with the pin between the two halves of the nuts - this was also mine - and an earlier design with the nuts punched into a notch on the rack.
With yours you need pin spanners, with the earlier design you need grooved nut spanners.
Some folks use pipe wrenches which leave traces of botch on the nuts. Therefore I would never do this.

Best Regards
Martin

 

I can tell you, having learned from experience: make sure you change the steering rack bushings. Otherwise, the steering rack will never feel right once you re-install it.

 

Andy a lot of the play could be in the universal joints in the column, worth checking these too.

 

Are you sure, this isn't caused by the track rod ends? In an earlier post you mentioned, they are o.k., but who knows.
BTW; there is only one bushing in the rack on the passenger side. You really should replace it. I once had my rack out to install,new gaiters and to seal the pinion housing. Checked the play on the passenger side and it was o.k.
One year later that plastic bushing disintegrated completely all of a sudden.
Meant removal of the rack once more and now doing the job thoroughly.

I have also replaced the gear oil with a 000-grease, like Ferrari did on the later cars with the same rack design. Works like the hot knife in the butter and no leaks.
(000= low viscosity grease for gears)

Another question and hint. Did you some time experience a sticky feel in the steering? Maybe temperature dependend?
A lot of people have this problem and replace expensive universal joints, roller bearings, though it's often the cheapest part in the steering column.
If so, I would recommend replacing that bushing, where the steering shaft goes through the bulkhead.
A cheap part and easy to replace at this occasion.
And if you do it, Do Not lubricate it. It's a dry slide bearing, which gets sticky with grease.

Best Regards
Martin

 

You guys think this is hard? Try a 355.

 

Replace the bushing on the passenger side! I would be surprised if it were not damaged. The originals are made of plastic and fail (mine had play in it and my car has about 35K miles). Use a new Olite one as referenced in the Pantera rebuild instructions. I also used #0 grease (engine assembly lube), this is also noted in the Pantera guide if I am not mistaken.

After replacing the bushing and relubing, the rack felt tight and smooth.

Getting the rack back in is not difficult. Take your time to slide it in, secure it, and everything will bolt right up.

 

Did anyone ever come up with a source to rebuild steering racks? Another thread told of horror stories with replacement racks being riveted together, etc.

 

I imagine most independent shops could do it. These racks are used in a number of cars and thus there are multiple options.

 

I made one of POM (Delrin) myself. Works perfectly. I spent some time thinking about, why they used plastic in the original design. Didn't find an answer, but could not see any advantages of metal, so I decided to maintain the damping effect of plastics.


Best Regards
Martin

 

Delrin would be the perfect material for this. Metal would only work if permanently kept lubricated, which would only be the case if there was enough oil in the gaiter to get into the contact area.

Someone mentioned Oilite bushes. These are phosphor-bronze if that is indeed what the metal ones are. They are supposed to be lubrication-free as they are pre-soaked in oil. But these really only have a very short life compared to Delrin and are not much used these days as Delrin is better all round.

 

Yes, and one more reason, why I replaced the oil with 000 grease.
Furthermore, with oil the upper pinion bearing is running dry most of the time.
I forgot to mention; If making a bushing from plastic, of course keep and reuse the original outer sleeve.

Best Regards
Martin
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Bronze Oilite is what I used as per the Pantera guide. I also used the #0 grease as opposed to oil. Two years as smooth as can be.

I do like the idea of Delrin but I think you would have similar lubrication issues.

 

I used these guys to rebuild the rack, good service and quick.

Contact Us - Steering EAC - Power Steering Specialists - London and South East

They also repaired the worn lower shaft where it fits in the bush and supplied an oversize PB bush. Perfect.

The upper UJ joint nearest the steering wheel had a small knock in it so replaced that.

Superformance do these or Parkinsons at Kings Lynn. It was a ***** to do so may be best to get them to replace it, Saves swearing in the garage at midnight!!

Tony

 

Andy,
on the other thread you said, that you and an experienced mechanic checked your rack.
Did you also check radial play on the passenger side?
If there is, you will always have play in the steering, because the rack can move radial in the bushing, before it will act on the steering arms.
Like mentioned before, I removed my rack once, checked it, found it o.k. and reassembled all. Only to repeat all one year later.
I think, no matter how good things look at first glance. This bushing is 30 to 40 years old plastic always soaked in grease and probably brittle.
Now I would always replace it without further investigations as soon as each rack is out of the car.
I can understand, that it costs someone quite an effort to separate the track rods, but it's only necessary on one side. Then you are able to pull the rack with the other side's track rod still attached.

Best Regards
Martin