Steering wheel shaft nut

Something like this? http://www.ricambiamerica.com/index.php?cPath=600_534

You can either measure the size and we can get the tool for you or you can tell us the car and we'll work it out.

Only problem is these tools are designed for gearboxes and other heavy duty applications, so they are a little overkill for a steering wheel nut.

That said, you can always make one of these by obtaining a suitable size socket and attaching it with an angle grinder.... Been there, done that....

 

Ok, don't laugh. I have taken off the steering wheel on my older porsches with a tool meant to take off faucet spigots/showers in older buildings. Its in the plumbing department of Ace Hardware. Consists of huge hex socket tools, includes 5 sizes, and costs 15$. I can't for the life of me think of its actual name. The 5 hex sockets come on a large ring. You slide the socket tool over the nut, grab a pipe wrench, rotate, and voila...

 

RNT-28 is for the steering wheel nut.

 

Are you sure? Isn't it RNT-38? That's the Ricambi part # I saw..

Baum Tools lists the Ferrari post-1974 steering wheel ring nut tool as 38mm.

I'm needing one too, as I need to repair my intermittent horn problem...

I'm MUCH prefer an Ace Hardware solution, rather than paying $95 + for a silly socket tool....

Anybody willing to loan/rent me one? I only need it for one day!!!

Regards,
Greg

PS--Bo, did your Porsches have a 4-notch ring nut on the steering column, like Ferraris? We need a 4-prong socket to remove these nuts...

 

PM sent,

Regards,
David

 

RNT-28 $97 + s/h to remove the steering wheel - Maybe start a business...mobile steering wheel removing service

 

My mistake, it is RNT-38.

Sorry if you don't like the price. Hill Engineering tools are designed and engineered for high volume shops that use things like this on a daily basis -- for years. We sell a good volume of them, and many shops ask for these tools by name. Walk into just about any FNA dealership in North America, and you'll probably find a nice selection of Hill Engineering tools. Engraved, and locked up each night.

 

Use an 1 1/8" craftsman deep socket and grind 4 tips in it . These are about 1/8" wide. It takes about 10 minutes to make. Cost about $10.

 

I've been servicing Ferrari's for 25 years...and most of my special tools were purchased directly from Ferrari. However, I purchased my first Hill Engineering tool (BB/TR center nut socket) recently from Ricambi. This was also my first purchase from Ricambi. Two comments:

The tool quality was outstanding...and worth every penny. Although you may only use this tool once, keep in mind that most of these special tools fit many different models. This is a big plus for me...and helps me "justify" the cost of the tools. Having the correct tools makes service on these cars just so much easier!

The service from Ricambi was impeccable, and they don't me from jack!

Regards,
David

 

David,
PM sent, many thanks!


Greg

PS--I don't question the value and quality of the tools, I'm just not a garage, and I only need it once... I'd rather put that $90 into tires or fuel!

 

I think $ 90,-- is a fair price for such a special tool, which is manufactured in - I assume - small quantities.
Now and then I make some of these steering wheel nut sockets and sell them on ebay.
I make two versions; one in stainless steel for the occasional DIY home mechanic who seldom uses it, and one in pre heat treated steel for the regular use in workshops.
I sold them for EUR 50,-- / EUR 100,-- and everybody has been happy.

Sometimes I wonder why people are ready to pay crazy prices for things like floor mats, aluminium pedal sets, chromed shifter knobs, etc., etc., but a useful tool is always way too expensive.
Compare, for instance, the costs for Kukko ball joint pullers.
But I have to admit; as a mechanical engineer I'm mad about high quality tools

Best Regards from Germany

Martin
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Sometimes I wonder why people are ready to pay crazy prices for things like floor mats, aluminium pedal sets, chromed shifter knobs, etc., etc., but a useful tool is always way too expensive.


Martin I think the 308 DIY folks are on a tighter "toy" budgit than other folks. So when we spend $'s we want to make sure that we "see " what we spent them for. Tools that we use once a yer (if that) don't usually ROI (return on investment) so spending 50 or 100 dollars isn't something of a priority. With stuff that is NLA we are alwys looking for low cost options to solve the problem. Also we tend to look for replacement parts that are non-OEM to keep us going. So I don't find it unusual that we don't spend the money. As a case in point I had a broken dizzy rotor and the OEM is $75. I found a Fiat rotor that was almost the same at $8 and it works just fine. This seems to be our mentality which is mostly driven by our wives. HAHAHA As I mentioned above a Craftsman socket and a little grinding and for $10 you have a steering wheel nut remover. And it will never wear out. My 2 cents

 

Anyone know about how much torque is needed to remove the nut (328 GTS)? I have leaned fairly hard on mine and it didn't move. I assume normal threads, and the nut looks like it is a nylon locking type.

Thanks

 

Hi Martin, do you have any left? If so, what's the shipping to US?

 

+1

 

Exactly what I did. Worked perfect.

 

Paying $90 or $100 for a tool that I might use once doesn't make sense, especially when there is a much less expensive alternative. Rather than use a socket, which IMHO is a good alternative, I used a 1 1/4" by 5" pipe nipple that I got at Home Depot for about $3. The threaded section at one end was cut off, and then a grinder was used to create the teeth. Once the teeth were cut in and fit was checked, a hole was drilled across the pipe section and a long piece of steel bar was inserted to turn the tool. Worked perfectly, both taking the nut off and putting it back on. If you don't have a steel bar laying around, you can use a long, round, heavy duty phillips screwdriver instead. Works just as good. The only trick with this tool is that you have to keep some pressure on it to keep the teeth engaged, but it did the job.

 

Did you have someone hold the steering wheel while removing the nut or just let the wheel come up against the locking mechanism?

I've put as much as 100 ft-lbs of torque on the nut and it has not moved. Apparently I need more.

 

if the nut is really tight it is next to impossible to hold the steering wheel. But I assume, that 100 ft-lbs is not a troublesome value for the locking mechanism or even the upper part of the steering column shaft.
NEVER direct the breaker bar in the direction towards the windscreen with forcing it upwards. The fine threaded nut comes loose suddenly and I have seen one case, when the 'mechanic' actually broke the windscreen.

But BTW; did anyone try to loosen the nut with a pneumatic impact wrench ?

@ 328GTB: you have a PM


Best Regards from Germany

Martin

 

I agree that making your own for the steering wheel is a good idea. I would be more concerned about getting the torque right on the transfer shaft nuts. If you make your own socket for this one and it doesn't fit just right you might not be able to reach the correct tightness/might be applying an uneven pressure around the notches in of the nut. That could get real expensive if it's loose or loosens up. Also, I think the excellent fit of the proper tool is great when you want to use an air wrench to loosen them like I did. Doing this with one made from a normal socket (not impact) could be dangerous.

If you use a home made socket on the steering wheel and don't get it as tight as it should be you will feel looseness in the wheel long before there is any danger of it coming off (just go back in and re-tighten). Not so with transfer case (and other special) nuts. You may not notice (hear) the problem until it is too late.

 

Yes, I had a friend pull up on the wheel clockwise as I pulled the wrench counter-clockwise. It did take a bit of effort, but applying progressively harder pressure eventually broke it loose. And we did the opposite putting it back on to be sure I got it good and tight.

 

It doesn't really have to be a particularly deep socket. Also, if you've got a QV, start with a 1-1/4" instead of 1-1/8"... it takes less grinding and the tips don't have to be as long.

 

I started with a 1 3/16"
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