Stickey problem solved ? | FerrariChat

Stickey problem solved ?

Discussion in '360/430' started by viperdrew, Mar 15, 2013.

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  1. viperdrew

    viperdrew Rookie

    May 15, 2010
    9
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    Drew Geffon
    I recently picked up another 2001 360 Spider, unfortunatly it had the gooey stickey interior parts. I tried many different combinations of cleaning products with pretty good results, with alot of rubbing most of the parts came out pretty clean. However I wasn't really thrilled. Untill.
    Sitting in my garage was a 1 gallon jug of "ZEP", so I decided why not give this a try. Put some on a clean rag and with a little rubbing all the gooey/stickey stuff came right off. I did another application and the part looked perfect. So if anyone is considering cleaning your interior parts I would recommend giving this stuff a try. here is the info:
    "ZEP" Professional Strength. Industrial Purple Cleaner and Degreaser Concentrate. It comes in a 1 gallon jug. Do not dilute it, use it full strength, wear some rubber gloves as the stuff is pretty strong. Try it on a small part first to see if it works for you, give it a try. I bought it at Home Depot.
     
  2. Need4Spd

    Need4Spd F1 Veteran

    Feb 24, 2007
    6,678
    Silicon Valley
    Thanks. I'm guessing that like other similar products it will also remove all the letters and numbers as well as the sticky stuff, so you need to be prepared to re-apply them.
     
  3. Argento360

    Argento360 Karting

    Mar 9, 2006
    177
    CA,AZ,NV
    Full Name:
    John
    Sound promising -- two quick questions: 1) did you remove the parts or just clean them "in situ" (it's not clear from your description)? and 2) did you refinish them with something else after or does just removing the sticky coating produce a good result?
     
  4. viperdrew

    viperdrew Rookie

    May 15, 2010
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    Drew Geffon
    I removed all the parts that had to be cleaned, its still a little messy and wouldn't want the surrounding leather getting dirty. However I did not remove the passangers grab handle and cleaned it in place, the leather also cleaned up with a little leather cleaner with no sign of residue or damage from the cleaning solution.
     
  5. viperdrew

    viperdrew Rookie

    May 15, 2010
    9
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    Drew Geffon
    Yes, unfortunatly the white lettering on the inside door handles came off, however the lettering on the switches and dash controls were not effected. Don't know why, but all the rest of the lettering remained in place.
     
  6. ncjetskier

    ncjetskier Formula 3

    Jul 7, 2012
    1,416
    Eastern NC
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    Chris
    I did a search about how to remove the buttons to clean the stickies and found a great one on how to do the ones around the radio. Can somebody tell me how to take out the buttons on the left side of the steering wheel (traction control, sport, etc)? Thanks!!!
     
  7. rob4092xx

    rob4092xx Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2010
    570
    Phoenix, AZ
    I was thinking the same....would it be possible to write a step-by-step desciption how to remove each of the parts??????
     
  8. ncjetskier

    ncjetskier Formula 3

    Jul 7, 2012
    1,416
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    Rob, if you do a search using "sticky" you will see a really good tutorial on the heat/AC and window switches. If you go to the stickie no more web site, it will show you how to remove the steering column cover (I am just going to leave it and clean it in place). If you go to the first post of this thread, there is a post under the DIY post - go to the bottom of the listing.

    But nowhere does it have a thread on the block of switches to the left of the steering column. BTW the Jebs stuff works great.
     
  9. bisel

    bisel Formula 3
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    Sep 12, 2012
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    #9 bisel, Mar 16, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Just gently prize the switch from around the surrounding plastic. Use a small screwdriver or merely grasp to the top with your fingers. Alternate between top and bottom of switch until in moves away from surround. There is a small metal clip on the top / bottom of the switch that holds it in place but this clip does not require any special tools ... just a bit of force. It merely snaps back in when you re-insert it into the opening.

    Steve



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  10. ncjetskier

    ncjetskier Formula 3

    Jul 7, 2012
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    Thank You! Is there a way to take the whole black panel off? Thanks.
     
  11. bisel

    bisel Formula 3
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    Sep 12, 2012
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    I am sure there is, but have not looked into it.

    Steve

     
  12. rob4092xx

    rob4092xx Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2010
    570
    Phoenix, AZ
    I have read others say it is very difficult to get the switches back together after disassembling them. Did you disassemble and how did it go???
     
  13. Ky1e

    Ky1e Formula 3

    Mar 4, 2011
    1,252
    FL
    For another option-- I used rubbing alcohol and a box of Q-tips and all my stickies were completely gone. No joke, really. Rubbing alcohol works very well also. Left parts clean and dry with no residue.
     
  14. Argento360

    Argento360 Karting

    Mar 9, 2006
    177
    CA,AZ,NV
    Full Name:
    John
    #14 Argento360, Mar 17, 2013
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013
    Did the rubbing alcohol actually remove the sticky coating or just somehow clean it up or make it less sticky? I'm guessing that removing the coating would create quite a mess. Was it as easy as it sounds? Did you remove the parts or just clean them in place? The number of possible formulas for DIY'ing this seem to be increasing...
     
  15. rob4092xx

    rob4092xx Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2010
    570
    Phoenix, AZ
    You can get the entire surround, with switches still attached if you take a credit card (something plastic but rigid) and wedge it into the right side of the surround. Gently rotate and the side will lifet enough for you to get your finger in there and gently pull it off. It is super easy once you get it the first time.

     
  16. ncjetskier

    ncjetskier Formula 3

    Jul 7, 2012
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    The cleaning went REALLY well. The switches (on the left of the steering wheel) came out easy and went back easy. The only challenging part was the two window switches next to the stereo. For some reason, the electical plugs would not let go. I was able to get one to let go, but the one closest to the steering wheel just would not give. So, I cleaned it still attached to the wire harness.

    Overall, the job was very easy and I am glad I did it. The steering wheel enclosure was easy to do just leaving it in place. Man, the switches look so much better. I was so impressed, that every once in a while, I open the door to take a look (yeah, I know - get a life- but it is St. Patties Day and after 5:00 I don't drive unless the wife takes me). Thanks for all the help from everyone!
     
  17. bisel

    bisel Formula 3
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    #17 bisel, Mar 18, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have not tried the many solvents as others here to remove the sticky coating on our plastic parts, but in my case I have found that denatured alcohol does a reasonable job. It does not seem to affect the plastic substrate and although it does not dissolve the sticky rubberized coating, it does seem to soften it so that you can remove the goo using a bit of elbow grease and terry cloth towel, a sponge, a cotton swab ... or even your fingernail.

    Yesterday, I decided to take on the plastic shroud around the steering column. Although not really sticky, the rubberized coating was scarred around the ignition switch and it was looking pretty badly.

    After removing the upper and lower plastic shroud from around the steering column, I moistened the rubberized coating with denatured alcohol. As I stated, it does not dissolve the goo, but it does soften it. Using a terry cloth towel, a non-scratch scrubbing sponge (3M blue scrubber) I was able to get the rubberized coating off. I found that if I score the goo with my fingernail, I was able to more quickly scrub it off using the sponge.

    Once I got the goo off, I used Simicrhome metal polish (I expect any metal polish will do) to remove some of the scratch marks and smooth up the plastic surface. I then applied Mothers Back to Black plastic restorer to restore the plastic to nice sheen.

    Bottom line for me ... the alcohol seems to soften up the goo so that you can easily remove it and it does not affect the substrate. Also, it dries easily and does not require rinsing. I chose to restore the plastic substrate using plastic restorer and not try to paint it. In this way, you can easily re-apply a plastic restorer from time to time to retain the look.

    Steve
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  18. rmani

    rmani F1 Veteran
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    Nov 1, 2003
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    subscribed. I have this on my list of things to accomplish this summer. the stick parts in the car are driving me insane. I'm just afraid to remove any of them myself.
     
  19. ncjetskier

    ncjetskier Formula 3

    Jul 7, 2012
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    For me, this was much easier than I thought it would be. I would just take your time when doing it. I think it took me a total of 2-3 hours to do all of it.
     
  20. rob4092xx

    rob4092xx Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2010
    570
    Phoenix, AZ
    Very nice!

    Do you guys let the parts soak in a bucket of solvent for a while before starting to remove the goo?
     
  21. ncjetskier

    ncjetskier Formula 3

    Jul 7, 2012
    1,416
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    No, I was VERY careful not to let the cleaner get inside the switch. Actually held the switch upside down when I sprayed it, then laid it on its side for a couple of minutes. The JEP stuff works really well (or at least it did for me) and does not take long to work. I would wear gloves as it took a layer of skin off my hand the next day - no big deal, but you are better off avoiding damaged skin.
     
  22. bisel

    bisel Formula 3
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    Sep 12, 2012
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    I would guess if you working on a small, non-electric or non-mechanical part, you could do it, but to answer your question ... no, I did not. I merely wet it down with alcohol and kept applying more alcohol to keep it wet for a couple of minutes. Then with my terry cloth towel or sponge, I started scrubbing. I also scored it with my fingernails to make a start on the removal ... scoring in this manner provides a bit more surface area for your sponge or cloth to work on. The alcohol softens the goo fairly well, so the scrubbing part did not take me that long working on the steering column shroud. If I were working on say a switch, I would use cotton swabs and the terry cloth towel.

    Nice thing about alcohol, is that it is less likely to give you a problem if some of the solvent were to find its way into the electrical bits. A degreaser that is water based is more likely to cause problems.

    Steve

     

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