Stiffer suspension - should I stay or should I go?

I'm not sure you are giving the right info. Does this person include new springs, if not I doubt you will have any change in ride height or you are getting an incorrect length shock.

Regardless, koni shocks can be adjusted, so you could adjust the damping on your original shocks. Springs are what are going to really determine your ride height and you can get adjustable coilovers.

Changing all the bushings in your suspension is a great thing to do, it will give the car a fresh feel.

 

I changed mine from stock to QA-1's with 300 springs all around and it's by far the best investment I've made on this car. It has changed the handling from about on-par with a BMW 3 series (slightly worse actually) to obnoxiously good. And at the same time, the ride is far from uncomfortable.

Ride quality seems to be a matter of shock stiffness (adjustable on the QA-1's), while handling seems to benefit more form the stiffer springs.

Bottom line: If you don't do this, you're missing out on 80% of the fun! Go for it!!

Incidentally, replacing the rubbers on mine didn't make nearly as much difference as replacing the shocks and springs.

Here's the rubbers before the swap. About time , I'd think.....
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Hi Joy, you probably should get your worn bushings replaced regardless of whether you choose to go with higher spring rates and stiffer shocks. If your supplier/mechanic is suggesting that there are bushings available which are stiffer as well (that may be possible) then that's another choice to make in addition. But, if you enjoy a nice mellow ride, then you might want to think twice about stiffer bushings, or higher rate springs and stiffer shocks. Others here appreciate more the benefits of a stiffer suspension but be ready to sacrifice some amount of ride quality for a little less lean in the twisties. It's a trade off no doubt, but really just depends on personal preference.

 

Do a lot of research re lowered suspension. I went with a popular lowering kit on my 99 Porsche 911 and it was a disaster from an operational point of view. The car was a daily driver - 60 miles a day to/from work - I put the original components back in and sold the kit. It was totally impractical to drive on Long Island, where I lived at the time. One person, with the same kit, had to have the engine replaced after extensive damage from bottoming.

On smooth roads, with no driveway transitions, speedbumps, rocks in the road, etc, it's fine but otherwise it can be a real problem, especially if you actually drive the car much. So check it out before making that leap.

 

Thanks!

No, no real issues.

I DID have an issue when I replaced the wheels. The offset of the front ones differed, resulting in the wheel grabbing the inner lip of the wheel arch under certain circumstances (1/4 turn steering wheel and then raising one front wheel). Now that the car is getting a respray, I've had these lips rolled, hopefully putting an end to that.

As for the ride quality: It's sublime! Handling like a go-kart but without being uncomfortable. in fact, I found the old ride to be less comfortable from a driving standpoint. This feels so much more secure now. Really, I wouldn't want to drive mine without the upgraded suspension any more... If you want the ride quality of a 1960's Cadillac, then buy one of those. This is a Ferrari!

 

I did the same suspension work that HANS did. (Fully documented here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189851)
Follow up here: (http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195212&highlight=suspension+rebuild)

HIGHLY recommended! This will totally transform your car! I can't say enough about doing the suspension. Plus, it's probablly one of the most rewarding DIY projects you can do if you are thinking of it that way.

JIM
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Sorry, I did not read any details on these shocks (and what of springs, re-use? or are new ones complete?), but 2cm (<1in) is not very much to lower a car. Unless Euro car is lower, the stock ride hieght can easily handle 1" with a bit higher spring rate (stock is 200, I have 300s like Hans and also love them for 90% (harsh) street 10% track use.

How about some photos or info on what the current wheel-gap is like?

skol!
Kurt

 

Sorry to hijack the thread, but I am having new Koni's and bushings installed in my '80 GTSI as we speak and I am wondering if any of you can tell me how much of a difference in handle/ride the new shocks will be over the old one's. Right now, the shocks are origional OEM from 1980!

Any comments?

 

Suspension work eh? Well, stock the 308 is ok and nice and comfy over bumps. Sure going a bit stiffer with shock settings and higher spring rates are more 'racey', yet for street use things get more bumpy.

Check the SEARCH feature of Fchat, HUGE threas and plenty of data.

Been there, done that, went 'custom' shocks (Nick Forza) wth Saner anti-roll bars, etc. Stunk for rough street use, good for track use.

i'd do better anti-sway bars before spending on shocks/springs for STREET use.

 

There really shouldn't be too many cons to a properly set-up, aftermarket STREET suspension (emphasis on street here because in reality, a street suspension shouldn't ride like a track suspension because it should be designed to handle the imperfections encountered during day-to-day driving). In many cases the change will actually make the car ride better. Sometimes this is due to the impression that new bushings, etc., leave when felt in light of their worn-out counterparts, but a lot of this has to do with the advanced feeling that a car under tighter control and proper damping gives to its driver.

I don't have a Ferrari yet but have done my share of research and work on my own suspension (a 200SX SE-R), and I can assure you that the end result is well worth the price and time invested. I've done a coil-over conversion, Koni dampers, solid anti-sway bars, polyurethane bushings for the sway bars, control arms, and steering rack, and have added a number of structure braces. With a good set of tires and upgraded brake material I've tailed my fair share of sport bikes on our local mountain roads that don't allow speeds much higher than 45 mph...

Invest in some good parts, do your research on a proper setup, and you'll love it. Promise.

 

When I rebuilt my shocks last year and did my bushings, I kept everything stock and am glad that I did. It handles better than before, mainly since the shocks can now cycle more fluidly (the internal ports of the shock piston were plugged-up with deteriorated top-out bumper crap that made shock motion nearly impossible), and with new bushings, the ride is quiet and smooth.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

With all due respect, this may be the first time anyone has suggested monkeying around with the sway bars before replacing 25 year old shocks and springs.
Many are perfectly happy with the OEM sway bars for mostly street use (new SB bushings are cheap and easy to do though).

 

Good photos - for future reference, where did you source the parts for the rebuild, and what was the approx cost and time to do?

 

Wow, I used many sources...

Koni decals were purchased from a vendor at Concorso Italiano years ago (Kilimanjaro Designs?...).

The front-end kit of bushings, ball joints and shock bushings (oddly, enough to do all four shocks) came from "Maseratisource" on ebay.

Rear A-arm, front and rear sway bar bushings and large bump-stop shock bumpers came from Dennis McCann.

Shock bits were sourced out from industrial hydraulic suppliers (the shaft stem-packing is a novel set-up that I use frequently in my line of work - WV packing - http://www.veepacking.com/). Shock oil is simply AW32 hydraulic oil.

Can't talk about price... I never add up my bills, I just keep stuffing them in my "service history" envelope Regardless, it wasn't that expensive

Same thing with time. I did this entire project over 16 months. That involved mainly an hour or two after getting home from work each day, then a few hours on the weekend, etc... I don't work very fast, I take my time
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Nurburgringer,

True. Agree, the stock setup on the 308 by now is tired and many need reworking/refurb. BTW, has anyone started offering the better Saner sways (besides Saner)?

 

Good looking work you did there!
Thanks, I was thinking just about the Koni rebuild as a point of reference to the ~$1200 I spent on QA1 shocks, springs, and 'paperweights'. Surely a lot less $$$ (like you I do not add up my 308 bills lol!), but a good amount of time and of course OEM-spec unlike the QA1's.
But the shocks are far from the only non-OEM part on my 308 so the height and compression adjustability is nice to have.
cheers

 

Aha I see what you're looking for now. With that deep Euro spoiler I'd be concerned also.
I've scraped the shallow spoiler on my 308 and the car is not at all 'slammed' low.
Let us know how it turns out!