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Still no fans help!!!

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by 330GTCFERRARI, Jul 29, 2012.

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  1. 330GTCFERRARI

    330GTCFERRARI Karting

    Jun 21, 2012
    99
    NYC
    #1 330GTCFERRARI, Jul 29, 2012
    What components could be bad in my car that are causing the electric fnas to not fire up at running temp? I have checked the fuses and that fixed it at first now now fans again. What other comments could it be? Sensors? 330 gtc
     
  2. vrsurgeon

    vrsurgeon F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 13, 2009
    16,589
    Charleston, SC
    Full Name:
    Curt
    #2 vrsurgeon, Jul 29, 2012
    Fan motor can be burned out (unlikely)
    temperature switch can be faulty (see engine)
    connection can be bad at any of the above contacts
    if there is a rely then check this also and replace regardless. relays and connections corroded would be my bet.
     
  3. Doctor Mark

    Doctor Mark Formula Junior

    Dec 15, 2005
    921
    Georgia
    Full Name:
    Mark Gronsbell
    #3 Doctor Mark, Jul 29, 2012
    Have you checked the unit at the bottom of the radiator which starts the fans when the temp is reached to trigger them.
     
  4. 330GTCFERRARI

    330GTCFERRARI Karting

    Jun 21, 2012
    99
    NYC
    #4 330GTCFERRARI, Jul 29, 2012
    Someone mentioned that unit. What does it look like? What side of rad?
     
  5. Motob

    Motob Formula 3
    Professional Ferrari Technician

    Nov 11, 2003
    2,389
    Frederick, Maryland
    Full Name:
    Brian Brown
    #5 Motob, Jul 30, 2012
    The coolant switch is at the left bottom of the radiator. If you jump the connections with the ignition switch on, both cooling fans should come on. Does your car have A/C? If so, the right cooling should come on with the A/C on. There are two relays on the fuse board that control the function of the cooling fans. If jumping the radiator switch doesn't work, check the fuse for the cooling fans. If it is ok, then there is a problem with one of the relays/wiring connections.

    Brian Brown
    Patrick Ottis Co.
     
  6. bill.jones

    bill.jones Karting

    May 29, 2009
    64
    Adelaide, Australia
    Full Name:
    Bill Jones
    #6 bill.jones, Jul 30, 2012
    Jumping the connections means to join the two wires together. The easiest way to do this is with an opened paper clip poked into the connectors.

    Good luck...
     
  7. JeremyJon

    JeremyJon F1 Veteran

    Jul 28, 2010
    7,569
    Calgary, Canada
    #7 JeremyJon, Jul 30, 2012
    if the changed fuse worked, did you check it again to see if the new one burnt out?
    if it has, this indicates another problem, a short somewhere or a faulty sensor/switch that is loading the circuit
    if you're testing these, get a proper test lead (basically a wire with two alligator clip ends) to use as a by-pass
     
  8. bill365

    bill365 F1 Rookie

    Nov 3, 2003
    3,319
    Chicago area
    Full Name:
    Bill
    #8 bill365, Jul 30, 2012
    Also check the wire connections at the fuse block. They can sometimes get hot from the current draw and melt the plastic a bit, loosening the rivet and/or carbonizing the spade connectors, exacerbating the terminal heating problem.

    This can cause intermittent connection faults and much frustration.
     
  9. 330GTCFERRARI

    330GTCFERRARI Karting

    Jun 21, 2012
    99
    NYC
    #9 330GTCFERRARI, Jul 30, 2012
    Fuse fine. I can of fond these two wires. All I see is two grounds mounted to chassis.
     
  10. Mitch Alsup

    Mitch Alsup F1 Veteran

    Nov 4, 2003
    9,741
    #10 Mitch Alsup, Jul 30, 2012
    Electricity 101: voltage and current:
    A) does 12V get to the fan motor
    A.1) yes, fuses, relay, connectors, and wires delivering 12V to motor are fine
    A.2) no, fuses or relay or wires delivering 12V are not fine. diagnose and fix
    B) does ground (0V*) get to the fan motor
    B.1) yes, ground wires delivering ground to motor are fine
    B.2) no, ground wires delivering ground are not fine. diagnose and fix

    If A.1 and B.1 and motor does not spin, then the motor is at fault.

    Basically, if 12V is delivered, and a solid ground is present, a good motor will spin. Otherwise, diagnose the delivery of voltage and current to the motor, and when voltage and current are delivered but no motor worka, then motor is replaced.

    (*) one diagnoses ground after 12V by measuring that the application of 12V (from step A) is delivered and the voltage on the other motor terminal does not rise to 12V (indicating ground does not make it back to the battery.
     

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