Strange no start on 328

First, take a deep breath. Remember: even Ben Franklin managed to figure out electricity, in between chasing skirts.

Look for a wiring diagram on the web (e.g. google for "ferrari document"), and then take another deep breath -- Ferrari wiring diagrams aren't the clearest in the world. (Hint: get a box of colored pencils to mark up a printout with the color code. Also learn colors in italian. )

But if you get no fuel pump with the blue wire pulled (and the key on), then you've most likely got an issue on the pump itself, unless there was something in the old disabler system that the last service didn't extract.

If you pull the left rear tire and wheel well, and put a voltmeter on the pump, and find 12v there, but no pump operation, then it's time for a new fuel pump.

Did you run out of gas recently? Bosch fuel pumps are cooled by the fuel flowing through them. If you run out of gas, you risk overheating the fuel pump.

You might want to check the car against the wiring diagram to look for things that the factory didn't install.

The two most common issues with 328 wiring are (a) aftermarket stuff, and (b) the contacts on the edge of the relay board sometimes can't handle the current being run through them.

 

Hi Spirot,

I know it's frustrating right now, but hang in there. Besides, you now have a *reproducible* electrical fault and I'm guessing it happened in the best place, your own garage! (having changed a Chevy starter in cold rain on my back a few weeks ago, this is no small thing...!)

Now will the car turn over but not start or will it not even turn over?

I too have the '89 diagram, but I think 328s were very similar over the model run and would be surprised if wiring colors actually changed. Looking over, if you have power to relay there's two connectors behind the passenger footwell that transmit power from the fusepanel to the engine area. Pull your battery disconnect, then separate and inspect these connector to make sure none of the terminals have backed or are corroded significantly.

This will be a good place to start. And they don't hate you any more than the rest of us. I promise.

Best,

Carl

 

I have an 89 and an 87 diagram, and the only significant difference is that the 89 has an extra diagram for the ABS system. Both match my '88 well enough.

The stock operation of the fuel pump is a bit odd. The fuel pump only operates when the car is running -- mostly. Since this is a CIS system, if the pump operated when the car was off, it would be piling way too much fuel into the intakes.

So it has a start relay and an AFM "safety" switch. When you turn the key on, relays "u" and "r" activate, and the fuel pump is off. When you turn the key to start, the start power from the key switch runs through relay "r" to activate relay "s" and turn on the fuel pump while the car is cranking.

Once the car starts sucking air, the AFM switch (via that blue connector) removes ground and relay "r" deactivates, running ignition power to activate relay "s", keeping the pump running.

If the car stalls, the AFM switch grounds, relay "r" activates, and relay "s" deactivates, cutting off the fuel pump.

If you turn the key on, and remove the blue connector at the AFM, then the pump should operate (dumping fuel into the intakes -- don't continue long or the car won't start from too much fuel).

When diagnosing electrical stuff, you have to be calm and methodical. It always seems hopeless until the answer jumps up and slaps you across the forehead. Just take it a step at a time.

 

Are you thinking of selling it?

 

Since you've got power at the relays and the fuel pump fuse, but don't have power at the fuel pump, it sounds like a wiring problem between the relay and the pump.

Give this a try. With the blue connector off the fuel distributor and the key on, grab the left most white wiring connector going into the fuse box and wiggle it. I had a problem similar to yours and it turned out to be the pump wire connector had gotten hot and lost contact with the fuse block. I heard the pump begin to run as I wiggled it and found the problem after I pulled the fuse block out from under the dash.

 

Spirot,

Congrats in finding the problem, but don't use WD40 to clean the contacts. WD40 is an oil, not good as a contact cleaner. Any Radio Shack store and most auto parts store sells a electrical contact cleaner.

Regards,

Milton.

PS. I do have the wiring diagram for the 328, if you need one, just send you email via PM.

 

WD-40: "Water Displacement, version 40". We used to dry plug wires on american iron with it, back in the stone age. But Radio Shack contact cleaner is better for cleaning DC contacts.

Alas, the electrical connectors is one of the shortcomings of the 328. Those connectors are not completely unique to Ferraris, but they're hard to find anywhere except well stocked Ferrari shops.

If you're good at finely detailed metal work, it's just possible to reshape the metal contacts (such as with a hemostat) to improve the connection temporarily. But as many of those connectors are carrying more current than they're properly rated to handle, the plastic shells will need updating from time to time. (When the white plastic gets brown, it's been cooked, and no longer has the intended flexibility.)

I don't know where you're located, but Boston Sportscar in MA had stocked up on some of those connectors, a few years back.

 

Just a thought: can you just splice a wire in with an inline fuse holder for the affected wire? It's a DPO (dreaded previous owner) repair for sure, but you'll be able to drive the car with confidence until a more professional repair is done.

Ken