Stud Remover Kit

If stud removal is so difficult and you risk breaking off a stud, why don't you remove the gas tank? Gas tank removal is not so hard to do. I've done it twice myself on my 328. Trickiest part is getting it to slip past the rear axle.

 

If you are just trying to remove the compressor, why do you need to remove the studs from the block?

 

Sorry about that. I certainly understand your frustration.

I don't remember taking the engine block studs out when I removed my AC compressor. Maybe the AC studs were short enough or had been shortened. Maybe you could reinstall the compressor (without the shims...just keep note of their placement), cut down the compressor studs a little at the brackets, and then remove without removing engine block studs.

I think I would have remembered if I had to remove the long engine block studs. BTW, they are much longer since they go beneath the timing cover; there is actually smooth shank closer to the block. With the long length you are trying to undo, you could be putting a lot of the torsion stress into the full length of the stud that is outside the block.

You may consider loosening the gas tank strap to allow some play for removal.

Whatever you do, once you get it out, design something to make it easier to remove next time (like with a belt change). This may include shortening the studs all around, and possibly grinding some access into the brackets (I'm surprised how huge they are).

Rob H

 

I had to remove all those studs on my 328 for the compressor to swing out of the way.

 

Did you do anything to make it easier to remove the next time?

Recall, I deliberately removed my AC system entirely. I will investigate new AC methods later.

 

What about in cases where the fastener (whether bolt or nut) is set to a specific torque rating? From what I know, it's best NOT to apply anti-seize as it'll allow the fastener to turn too easily and there'll be a chance that too much torque will be applied.

 

I highly recommend the Snap on- #CG500-2 with the correct insert to match the thread. Won't damage the thread like the roller style removers and not too large so will fit in most places. They are expensive though.

M
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No kidding, they are insanely expensive.

 

Success is good!

 

Ha! Funny stuff. Congratulations on getting those out.

 

having just gone thru this on a couple blocks last week, here's what I found works best.

stick the block in the oven heat to 220F, you're gonna need the hyper expensive collett remover and impact gun, grab a can of loctite freeze and spray stud while removing. also helps if you got some penetrating oil in there.

I've got the roller ones that work on non seized studs, threaded ones for install and the offset cam one that is good if you've got the space and is hit or miss on the head studs.

In general the loctite freeze off stuff is great, last resort was to heat the block. of course not everyone has a walk in oven

 

Now that the problem has been solved, I feel comfortable offering my solution.

Ice Dancing- I've found that if I put an ice dancing program on the TV all the studs will leave the room and usually the entire house is clear.