sudden darkness

First thing to try is cleaning the contacts in your column switch. Get some good electrical contact cleaner and clean 'em off. If it still does it you may need to look at your fuse panel and possibly the relays but it sounds like the switch from your description.


EDIT: Oh yeah, get prepared because the ASN's will be here shortly!!

 

I had a simillar problem and it was the fuse block melting. The fuse holders if not pushed tight enough caused heating and melting of the block. I know many here replace them or solder them but I think removing the fuses and pinching the contacts together tight so that when re-inserted the fuses are not loose has worked good for me. I had a problem with the headlights not lowering but that was fixed by replacing the relay.

 

In my opinion the fuse panel replacement was one of the easiest and certainly the cheapest project I've done to my car yet. See here for all the details (also the link in post #4)

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29884&highlight=308+fuse

Good luck and let us know what you find out!!

 

I had the same problem w my '85 308. It was the 2 connections inside of the stalk switch. One was disconnected and erratically making contact. The other was barely connected. I resoldered them and that was that.

 

Before you take anything apart, check the stalk switch. On my 85 the solder (sp?) connecting the wire on the inside of the switch came loose and caused the same problem. If you CAREFULLY pull the rotating end off you can check this. I think that there are old threads showing pictures. I still have not bought a soldering gun to fix yet, so if anyone has any tips I'd be appreciative.

Thanks, George

 

Ernie,

There is a steering wheel puller that you need. I have had this one since I had a 75 pinto! The only thing I needed was two metric bolts which screw into the head (see photo). It comes off pretty easy, my wheel was making a terrible scratching noise and I thought it was the horn contacts. Turned out there is a couple of pieces of metal and plastic that form a kind of bushing on the outside of the shaft near the center of the mechanism. I put some white grease down there and it seemed to fix it. I did not want to take the switch off as it is working however it seems like it is pretty fragle especially the plastic tabs that return the turn indicator. I try to use the thing as little as possible, using the indicator but turning it off before it has a chance to break. Hope the pics help.

Rob

 

Thanks for the pictures Rob, it looks realitively simple with those two larger bolt holes. Mine dosen't have those two holes, it's just got the 6 really small holes for the steering wheel, I'm not convinced that they would stand the stress of a puller.....I guess a small tug to see wouldn't hurt? I was thinking about a three point puller and some clips as attachment points held in place by the small screws?


make an adaptor plate U CAN BOLT ALL SIX BOLTS THROUGH THEN PULL FROM THE ADAPTOR!

 

great post.
My headlights have been doing this also; random times I'd use the turn signals the lights would go off and require a quick tap on the lever. I'm going to pull the stalk switch and check mine too.
I've got a lot of headlight work to do this weekend!!!

 

Hi Everyone,

JUST went through a total headlights/turn signal failure in the 1985 308GTS QV. Basically, the main light RELAY (fuse box top relay that is the second one in from the right side). Seems the top blade was not making a good contact. Upon removing the relay i could see hints of melted fuse block plastic on the top blade. As we all know, the headlight relay does generate some heat.

Solution: removed the relay, cleaned both the relay's top male contact and also the fuse box's top female contact within the fuse box. Also note that you MIGHT need to slightly realign the fuse box's top blade female connector.

Hope this information helps someone.

 

The single ball bearing goes on the top of the black part on the stalk. There should be a small recess for it on the right side in the center of the black stalk part.

If you need a pic lemme know as i can walk down the driveway to the car and take a pic for you. Alas, my new home makes it more challenging to just go take pics of everything all the time as i have done previously here for Fchat members

 

Also, there should be a small, usually black, spring in the hole behind the ball bearing, if not, then search your floorboards again.

If necessary, use a dust buster with a clean bag, then carefully paw thru the debris. I often put a small magnet in the bag just to be sure I don't accidently loose something after it's been picked up.

The ball/spring is what provides the detent (aka 'click' feeling) when twisting the knob. The switch will work fine w/o it, but won't feel like it's clicking into position.

 

My 308 did this once. I checked the relay and it was very hot. I replaced the relay and the problem went away and the new relay stays cool all the time. $6 fix.

 

What is the relay # so i can go to Pep Boys/Napa/etc and buy a new one.???