I am about to place an order for a degree wheel for my 348 (currently doing the 30k major). I have 2 questions: 1. Is the right wheel this one: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG1057&N=700+400304+301620+115&autoview=sku 2. Are there any other special tools (pullers, etc) I should be ordering at the same time? Thanks.
+1. Be sure to get one with a magnetic base, and multi-angle adjustable arm. Makes it much easier to set it up.
And if you don't have one, get yourself a dentists style mirror (one of those little round mirrors on a handle, adjustable). It will make working on the front bank a lot easier. And if you don't have any large sockets, you may need one to remove the crank damper (can't remember size off the top of my head).
Troy - I decided to get an 18" Moroso. I thought it might give me a little better precision, but I now think it was overkill. It worked fine, though... no clearance problems. If I had to do it again, I'd probably get a 12" similar to the one you referred to. PS - FatBillyBob's thread on Degreeing is great, especially the last part in which he covers the Lobe Centerline method. I now have my cams and belt on, and plan to use the Lobe Centerline method to verify everything.. should save time http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=148917&highlight=lobe+centerline Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just as important, get a piston stop so that you can determine DTC. Summit Part # SUM900189. Note: The bigger the timing wheel, the more accurate you will be.
There are multiple ways to skin a cat. Some procedures for valve timing call for measuring the amount of lift on top of the followers (dial indicator) at specific crank positions others measure the degrees at which cams begin to open and close but you always need to find TDC. Some people like using the dial indicator inserted in the #1 plug hole and rotating back and forth. Others used the piston stop set to a fixed length and you approach the stop from both directions marking the degree wheel on each side. Split the difference and you have a very accurate TDC. I've always found it easier to use the piston stop and feel confident that I had gotten it right. Your flywheel should be marked as well. It doesn't hurt to verify that it's properly marked though. I've heard stories ... Bob S.
