Suspension light on, twisty feeling under load 355

Hello,

When I gun the coupe now, it seems to want to "twist" toward the drivers side. Seems to have happened when my suspension light came on. Or at least in and around that time.

Would a bad actuator produce this result?

Thanks

 

Maybe you just need to Kickstart it's Heart before it can take you back to Home Sweet Home where there are plenty of Girls Girls Girls awaiting you?

Or perhaps you can Shout at the Devil & see if that might help... of course, some of the Saints of Los Angeles might be upset with you if you try that tactic.

Personally, I think the situation can be remedied if you can ask Dr. Feelgood to help you find the Live Wire that's causing the problem.

 

It could, if the shock goes full soft it could cause it to dip harder on one side under launch.

 

Take a look at the drivers side rear shock and see if you see something that looks like light oil. The shock may have leaked out. Just the actuator probably wouldn't give that feeling.

 

LOL! Thanks for that.

 

Look for visible signs of something broken, safety first

Could be mnay things

 

Upon inspection, I discovered a broken motor mount and a cracked motor mount.

 

I was going to suggest check motor mounts.... Are you going to change them yourself?

 

Yes, I will change them.

 

While you're under the car, remove the rear wheels and give a very close look at the square tubing used in the construction of the sub-frame that holds the engine, trans, and suspension; especially the vertical members next to the exhaust system collectors. F355s that have been driven hard will sometimes experience a fracture or a complete break in these members. That's what was responsible for my mount breaking. A welder with a mobile MIG welder fixed my sub-frame in about an hour (with the car prepped). I also had them install "doublers" on both sides to prevent a reoccurrence.

If the mount itself is broken, it can be taken to a certified aircraft welding shop that repairs aluminum parts and fixed at a much more reasonable price than buying a new factory part. And, bonus, it will probably be stronger than a new part. Good luck, Al.

 

Any pics of this?

 

Thanks Al.

 

Sure. Here are before and after welding (showing a doubler) shots.
BTW, a word of caution: Make absolutely sure that, before any electrical welding is done, that you personally disconnect the battery master and any ECUs, radios, cellphones, GPS, and any other sensitive electrical component from the car's electrical harness. The eddy currents from the welding process can destroy them. Ask your welder about that. Good luck, Al
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Thanks for the pics, one more thing to check before going to the track.