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suspension recommendations

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by adesalos, Dec 1, 2003.

  1. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Nice Rack.....
     
  2. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Can't wait to tear into this thing...
     
  3. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    mmmm...
     
  4. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Rack out, Side view...
     
  5. lou staller

    lou staller Formula Junior

    Dec 21, 2002
    376
    Orange County Ca
    Full Name:
    Lou Staller
    Dave,
    What brand paint did you use on your calipers? Where did you buy it? Your calipers look great! I have mine off and apart and I want to do as you did, paint them red. Thanks.
     
  6. hanknum

    hanknum Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
    2,040
    Santa Barbara
    Full Name:
    Henry
    Dave,

    What model QA1's did you go with? Are those the Promastars? I too have QA1's. What length did you use front and rear? What spring rates did you go with?

    Thanks

    Henry

    BTW, great pix
     
  7. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Lou, I ended up using Dupli-Color high heat ceramic paint...
    Red # DH1606, after priming...
    and then a coat of Dupli-Color high performance wheel coating,
    Clear # HWP103.
    The clear coat stuff should help resist brake dust, chemicals,
    and cleaning solvents.
    I'm hopeful that they will hold up to weathering.
     
  8. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Henry, The QA1 Motorsport shocks are from Summit Racing.
    They were so-pose to be the same model that you had installed in your car.
    Front shocks: HAL-4855P
    Rear shocks: HAL-5855P
    After we had talked on the phone I tried to order them online but ran into problems, so I ended up calling them to place the order.
    When the shocks arrived they were the non-adj rebound model.
    Rather than send them back I thought I would give them a try for as little as they cost.

    For the springs I went with Eibach from Truechoice...
    As far as spring rates I went a little stiffer than most run on the street, hoping to gain a little better track performance.
    325lbs. front and 275lbs. rear.
    1000.250.325
    1200.250.275
     
  9. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Owner Consultant

    May 5, 2001
    6,963
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    BUSHINGS
    The upper & lower front and rear inner a-arm bushings all use the same polyurethane part. I've got a set that I plan to install next spring.

    POR15
    POR15 is great stuff. A little goes a long way. Go with brushing, it does the best job of self-leveling I've ever had a coating do. Very slow cureing, especially in cool low humidity conditions. It's very thin out of the can & flows almost as well as water, so after each coat go back after about 15-20 min & brush out any drips that have appeared.

    It's now carried by a lot of the auto body supply stores. I got the $15 starter kit and had a lot left over after giving both of my pinch welds about 5 coats each.

    Vy important to read the instructions to ensure success. Give me a call before you start & I'll pass on some tips.

    Actually quite easy to use. Also get a pint of cheap lacquer thinner from a HW store. It'll clean it up as long as it hasn't seroiusly started to cure. I used it to clean the brush after each coat. You could just buy a bunch of very cheap brushes tho. It flows so well that just about anything can be used to apply it.

    Those blue Nitrile gloves I use are great with it, keep it off of your hands.
     
  10. 1975gt4don

    1975gt4don Formula Junior

    Nov 5, 2003
    662
    Peoples Rep of CA
    Full Name:
    Smog Exempt
    Verell, thx for the POR-15 tip, I bought some two weeks ago on your rec. So far, I love the stuff! Brushed it on liberally over my rusting front frame area, mostly on the frame where the front A-arms connect to and the front cooling fans area, beneath the headlight area and inside of the body panels adjacent to the headlight area that was not coated by the factory. I wirewheeled and blasted the frame first, then used the POR-15 metal cleaner. That cleaner is awesome stuff! I have confidence that after two coats that the POR-15 will stop the corrosion forever.


     
  11. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Owner Consultant

    May 5, 2001
    6,963
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    2 coats is probably enough for an area that's protected against gravel, etc. For exposed areas such as brake dust shields & suspension components where grit & gravel can be being bounced off of the surface I'd put on a couple of more coats.

    While POR15 seems to be pretty tough, More is supposed to be better when it comes to resisting mechanical impact.
     
  12. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Well I planed on a couple hours on the car but it rained all day...
    Just not good for blasting or painting.

    Here is the next corner in line.
     
  13. hanknum

    hanknum Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
    2,040
    Santa Barbara
    Full Name:
    Henry
    Hey Dave,

    What'd you do about the difference in width on the shock mounts? Did you have some bushings/spacers made up?
     
  14. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Henry, I went cheap-O...
    I went to NAPA and got some washers similar to these...
     
  15. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Installed...
     
  16. tele013

    tele013 Formula Junior

    Nov 19, 2003
    760
    Malaga, Spain
    Full Name:
    jesus
    It´s a very, very good job.
    Jesus.
     
  17. hanknum

    hanknum Formula 3

    Nov 1, 2003
    2,040
    Santa Barbara
    Full Name:
    Henry
    Yeah, me too Dave. I might have something machined up over the winter, if I do, I'll check with you if you want to get in on it.

    You've done a first class job on everything from what I can see.
     
  18. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Owner Consultant

    May 5, 2001
    6,963
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    The poly bushings come molded into a metal sleeve with a lip. The new bushing's sleeve must be tack welded into place just like the original bushing was.

    Trick is to avoid melting the bushing while doing the welding. Use a MIG or TIG welder. Wrap the entire bushing in wet rags, or else something like Eastwood's Anti Heat Compound Item No. - 31042. Eastwood's got a new Form-A-Shield Heat Absorbing Gel Item No. - 19210 that sounds like it may work also.

    If you use the anti-heat compound, plan on misting it with water after each weld as it works by water evaporation.

    HERE'S WHY:
    w/o the tack weld the bushing's metal housing would rotate in the A-arm holes & rapidly wear them oversize & probably oval to boot, would also wear corresponding grooves in the bushing's sleeve. Then you've got big problems!!
     
  19. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Sounds good Henry.
     
  20. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Verell is correct,
    as it is best to tack weld the bushings back when finished.
    I was going to wait till I found an inexpensive welder with a nice duty cycle, and complete the job before alignment time.
     
  21. adesalos

    adesalos Karting

    Mar 19, 2003
    222
    Texas
    Dave,
    Did you replace the ball joints as well? IF so where did you get these?Ferrari UK is out of stock for the lower ones...

    Also did you replace the sway bar bushings, and the adjustment shims between the ball joints and the A-arms?

    Finally (I know I can be annoying with all my questions) would it be better to powder coat or use the POR-15 or any paint?
     
  22. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    As far as the ball joints go, I replaced a bad one last year,
    the rest were still ok...
    The sway bar bushings were replaced with Energy Suspension polyurethane grease-able bushings #9.5155G
    for my stock GTB bar, it would be different for a GTS.
    The end link bushings were Energy Suspension poly bushings as well, that I turned and re-drilled to fit the stock end links.
    The shims between the ball joints and the A-arms were still in good shape, and were reused.
    As far as paint goes, IMHO a good powder coat is the way to go.
    But in my case I ended up painting the arms and other assemblies myself, and I feel that it looks ok, and should stand up well.
     
  23. plahaye

    plahaye Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    44
    S La. swamp
    Full Name:
    Phil LaHaye
    Dave,
    Did you use universal shock eye bushings for the new shocks and if so do you recall the size?
    Phil
     
  24. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    The New aftermarket shocks I used came with bushings installed.
     
  25. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    Shock bushing
     

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