Taken Delivery of a 91 Testarossa - some questions

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Fezzaphil, Dec 5, 2006.

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  1. Fezzaphil

    Fezzaphil Formula Junior

    Sep 14, 2004
    368
    UK
    Full Name:
    Philip
    Hi All,

    I have just taken delivery of a 91 Testarossa, here in the UK. Rosso/Crema of course!

    It joins the 328GTS and 246 GT in the F car stable - I will post some pics later!

    However I have some everyday questions perhaps you can help with?

    How long does it take for yours to warm up? (it a wet but mild winters day here today, the water seemed to come up to temp nicely, oil temp doesn't budge for a while)

    What tempeture do your fans cut in at? How quickly does your warm up and the fans cut in?

    Thats it for now.....have only really driven the car to and from work as its not really the right driving conditions, so I expect I may have some more questions later on.

    Thanks

    Phil
     
  2. Fezzaphil

    Fezzaphil Formula Junior

    Sep 14, 2004
    368
    UK
    Full Name:
    Philip
    #2 Fezzaphil, Dec 5, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. 90TR

    90TR Formula Junior

    Nov 23, 2005
    260
    Celebration, FL
    Full Name:
    Bill
    Congrats. I let mine run for 2 minutes and then go. Until my temps are up, I try to keep it at 2500rpm or less. I live in Florida and my fans rarely come on. Really only if I am sitting at idle. They come on when the needle is fully past the center line of the guage and run until it is fully below the centerline. I have found it takes about a minute (not long at all to make this drop). When I am in a parade or show the fans come on and stay on and they are very effective at holding the temp below the centerline. This is even in 100 degree Florida days. When I am moving at highway speeds, regardless of the outside temp my gauge drops...I would say the 170 area. I have taken her out with Shark49 and have pushed her, and as long as I am moving at a good clip the temp stays low. My oil temp rarely comes up beyond the normal reading. That fan has only come on once that I can remember. My only suggestion is not to let her sit too long.
     
  4. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,515
    Pacific NW
    Full Name:
    Anthony C.
    Not sure about the Dino engine, are they dry or wet-sump? Anyway, the oil capacity of the Testarossa series is huge due to the dry-sump motor (16.6 Quarts) and they will take a while to warm. Depending on how quickly you were to push the engine from a cold start, it is not unusual for it to take 30 minutes or so in winter time (~40F).

    However, I have also heard that someone had forgotten to reconnect the oil temperture sensor after an oil change or something to that affect. Perhaps someone more technical *Paging Professor Steve Magnuson/91tr to the white courtesy phone :)* can answer on this.
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    16,858
    Texas
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    My experience is the same as the others:

    1. the TR's thermal inertia is freakin' HUGE so it takes forever to heat up (but I think it's better to drive gently when cold rather than doing a lot of warm-up idling). I've even toyed with the idea of adding an oil thermostat in the lines to bypass the oil cooler when cold -- it needs one.

    2. My water fans go "on" at an indicated water temp of just over 195 deg F, and even on hot days stuck in traffic, they can reduce the temp back to an indicated 175~180 deg F where the fans go "off".

    3. The oil fan comes "on" at about an indicated oil temp of ~180 deg F (haven't noticed where it goes "off").
     
  6. Fezzaphil

    Fezzaphil Formula Junior

    Sep 14, 2004
    368
    UK
    Full Name:
    Philip
     
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  8. Ermanno Claypool

    Ermanno Claypool Formula Junior

    Jul 31, 2006
    343
    Italy
    Full Name:
    Ermanno
    Congrats Fezzaphil!

    That Testarossa is really AWESOME!!
    One of the last built before the 512 TR era,is right?

    :)
     
  9. curtisc63

    curtisc63 Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Dec 13, 2005
    2,159
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    Curtis Campbell
    Fezzaphil,

    I too am new to TR ownership. I had the exact opposite concerns on the cooling fans. Mine never seemed to come on! Having just completed a malor service I too was looking for forgotten items/problems. However, I was fortunate enough to take it out on days when it was cooler and did not get stuck in traffic. Like others, mine come on @ 195 and go off ~170. I am not sure I have ever heard the oil cooler fan come on.

    Congrats on the new acquisition. You are already living something that I can't wait for - "Can you bring the Ferrari?" I can not wait to answer "Which one?"

    CC
     
  10. jungathart

    jungathart Guest

    Jun 11, 2004
    3,350
    NoVA, AmeriKa
    Full Name:
    Komrade Jung
    Fezzaphil, Congrats!:)


    Thanks, this helps me too.:)
     
  11. johng

    johng Formula 3

    Oct 23, 2004
    2,272
    northern va
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    john g
    this is normal. my old testarossa did the same thing. as long as the fans come on and turn off when they are supposed to, i wouldn't worry. testarossas generate a lot of heat, and those fans get a workout!

    john
     
  12. TESTADAZ

    TESTADAZ Karting

    Apr 26, 2005
    148
    London, UK.
    Full Name:
    Daryn
    Hi Phil congratulations at last!!
    Looks a nice one.
    My TR would sit for about 5 mins warming up before i would drive it and its not unusual for a little hunting of the revs initially till the cold start injector kicks out.
    The oil temp gauage is renouned for being very slow to move and i did worry over its accuracy, never really came up above 1/4 of the range after a long hour plus drive.
    i sat on m25 once in 100 degrees and the fans kicked in and out like a good un never over heated.
    If yours is heating up very quickly that sounds strange, maybe check coolant level, there are 3 bleed nipples one each side on the alloy down pipes and one at the back in the middle slacken them to see if you get a dribble! and check thermostats. i have a workshop manual if you need any info.
     
  13. Fezzaphil

    Fezzaphil Formula Junior

    Sep 14, 2004
    368
    UK
    Full Name:
    Philip
    Cheers Daryn!

    Why didn't I just think to email you directly!!!! How foolish of me!

    I'll get on the case, it's going back to the dealers with my snagging list so I keep you informed.

    Phil
     
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  15. ryalex

    ryalex Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 6, 2003
    20,029
    Las Vegas, NV
    Full Name:
    Ryan Alexander
    I'm just an armchair mechanic, but that sounds like a thermostat problem to me - my Audi was doing that this summer (heat jumps right up and despite fans on car thinks it's overheating). When I sped up it would cool off a bit but climb right back up to red zone once below freeway speeds.

    Congratulations on the TR!
     
  16. malibu_rob

    malibu_rob Karting

    Jan 26, 2012
    93
    Malibu, CA
    Full Name:
    Rob
    I'm having a similar issue - the car goes from zero temp to 240 in about three minutes - I can literally watch the guage move - even at idle.

    The right side oil cooler fans come on, but I don't think either radiator fan comes on (certainly not the driver's side/left side).

    It boils over coolant and then I have to shut it down.

    Could it be a) bad thermostat b) bad radiator fan sensors c) air trapped in the system?

    Note - the car overheat on a 55 degree day driving at 60, when you would think the fans would be less important...

    Help!
     
  17. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    16,858
    Texas
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    #15 Steve Magnusson, Mar 1, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2012
    Yes, this generally rules out b) or b') white connectors to water fan motors fried, but could also be d) bad head gasket(s) or e) water pump not working. However, you've got to rule a) (and c)) in or out first. Bleed the system using the three bleed screws for c), get the water fan motors working (try a search on "white connector fans" for prior threads/tests like this -- http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=175119), and then (carefully) feel the water lines going into the top of the radiators with your hand:

    If the (metal) inlet tubes at the top of the water radiators are (relatively) cold, but the "Y" water fitting on the top front of the engine is very hot = either the thermostats are not switching the water flow paths and the coolant is just circulating in the engine, or the water pump is not working.

    If the (metal) inlet tubes at the top of the water radiators are very hot, and the "Y" water fitting on the top front of the engine is very hot = not a good sign.
     
  18. chabch

    chabch Formula 3

    Aug 15, 2010
    1,075
    France
    Full Name:
    Christophe
    My water temp goes to normal temp in 2 minutes idling plus 5-8 minutes of gentle driving. The oil temp take a good 15 minutes to start to take off, and another 5 to be at normal temp (about a 1/4 of the gauge)
     
  19. malibu_rob

    malibu_rob Karting

    Jan 26, 2012
    93
    Malibu, CA
    Full Name:
    Rob
    #17 malibu_rob, Mar 1, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Steve,

    Although nice and comfy in bed, I couldn't stand not knowing. So, after reading your post, I put on my slippers and headed up the the garage (conveniently located above the master bedroom for easy access!). The car has been off for about two hours - engine still very warm to the touch, but not burning hot. I checked the 'Y' tube as you suggested, it was quite warm.
    Then, I checked the metal inlet tubes (the one with the bleeder screw, right?) and it was stone old. (photos attached). Also, when I removed the screw, it was rusty and cruddy. as well as DRY. I started the engine for a few seconds, not even a dribble of coolant.
    The car has been sitting about 4 years before coming into my hands, and after replacing a badly repaired fusebox, etc.
    I don't hear my fans going, so that's one issue - but could the thermostat be the first thing to tackle? And is it going to be a pain to do?
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  20. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    #18 Steve Magnusson, Mar 1, 2012
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2012
    No, the first thing to do is add some coolant (i.e. bleed the system) until coolant exits at all three bleed screw locations.

    The coolant pipes on the sides with the bleed screws are connected to the bottom of the radiators (not the top). In that "feel" test you really need to feel the metal tube where coolant enters the water radiators at the top (it's the other large metal water tube on the firewall in your photo), but this is meaningless until you completely fill the entire cooling system with the proper coolant+distilled water mix -- do that first!
     
  21. malibu_rob

    malibu_rob Karting

    Jan 26, 2012
    93
    Malibu, CA
    Full Name:
    Rob
    Okay, at the risk of sounding like an idiot (too late? haha) how can I get to the bottom of the radiators without putting the car on a lift and taking everything apart?

    Was the screw I took off one of the three?
     
  22. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    You don't need to get to the bottom of the water radiators -- the screw that you took out is one of the bleed screws and there's a corresponding one on the LH side. The third bleed screw is in the top of the thermostat housing -- it is cross-drilled like the bleed screw that you removed so it isn't necessary to completely remove these screws -- they just need to be loosened a turn, or two, to let coolant out. Although you should clean-up the bleed screw that you've removed, and the corresponding screw on the LH side, and use a little anti-seize on the threads (the one on the thermostat housing can be a b*tch to get back in so I'd just try opening that one a turn, or two, and not remove it). See the cooling system figure 40 on page 59 of your OM.
     
  23. Testarossa Lover

    Testarossa Lover F1 Rookie
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Dec 31, 2006
    3,179
    Newport Beach, CA
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    Haig Barsamian
    Congratulations Philip... Enjoy her in good heatlh.
     
  24. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3
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  25. fast eddy

    fast eddy Formula Junior
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    Apr 8, 2010
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    Utah
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    Ed
    I initially could not get coolant to bleed out from the bleed screw on the right hand side, even though I loosened it, and removed it totally! (Car had been sitting for 7 yrs). Corrosion had built up in the opening below the screw, so I used a awl or small screw driver to probe the opening. The fluid then sqirted dramatically and went everywhere!!! Had to go to the car wash to clean things up! Just an fyi. No problems since then. :)
     
  26. blown daytona

    blown daytona Formula 3

    Feb 6, 2008
    1,529
    maryland
    I had trouble bleeding mine a few years ago. I hooked up a cooling system pressure tester, put 10 psi in the system, then opened bleeder screws, it pushed all the air out. Just make sure you always have enough coolant in the resivior so you dont push out to much coolant causing another air pocket
     
  27. Philwozza

    Philwozza Formula 3

    Apr 23, 2009
    2,032
    Winchester UK
    Full Name:
    Phil Worrall
    Philip, my Testarossa NEVER has its oil cooler fans come on; it takes about 45 minutes before the oil temp gauge even starts to indicate a temperature.
    The water is a different thing; I can start the car, back it out of the garage, jump out to close the garage door and set off. By the time I reach the first corner about 500 yards away I have warm air coming out of the heater vents.
    Where about are you? I am in Hants!

    Enjoy your car, its a great all round GT with a lot of "welly".

    P
     

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