Thx Steve I believe the petro could damage the Teflon quicker
Steve, I hate to disagree, but also a silicone based grease would prevent the run-in process like it was once intended. Normally PTFE (Teflon) is mineral oil or petroleum resistant. Best from Germany Martin
Martin, I didn't say that he should use a grease, although my 308 experience matches his -- a lot of corrosion, rust, and wear on the (bare) metal parts in those plain bearing assemblies (after ~20 years and 90K miles use). IIRC, item 11 is a chrome-plated piece of steel that (in theory) would never wear on the OD, but mine had significant wear exposing the bare steel underneath. We don't have to agree on everything
That's true ;-) It's just because these bearings got kind of a passion for me since I almost lost a customer back then, just because the assemblers didn't want to hear and the end-customer complained about noises, which bothered or almost did make his employees sick. But I admit; Suffering those noises 8 hrs./day is a whole different thing than any issue on our cars. Best from Germany Martin
On a lightly-to-moderately-loaded linear table, with 4 dry "teflon" bushings, moving along two parallel rods in a linear back-and-forth motion, I'd more strongly agree with you. In this very small-angle, heavily-loaded, oscillating, rotary application, I'd be less concerned about any noises happening, and really think that the F engineers got a little too tricky in their quest for providing a very precise rotary motion that (in theory) required no maintenance -- my "proof" is that they abandoned this style of design on all F models after the early 328 and used less-precise, but truly maintenance-free, flexible bushings like everyone else
Im reading on SUPER LUBE website and they claim the products have excellent compatibility with PTFE. Martin not sure what you mean by interfering with the run in process as the parts don't have full rotational movement.
The bearings have a run-in layer which should transfer onto part 11. This should also happen with our small angle rotation. Of course nothing is audible while driving or the engine running. But each time I entered or left the passenger seat mine did sound like an old rocking chair. And I am not obese Best from Germany Martin
I would imagine that the torque value on the bolt would play a part as it compresses the whole assembly together. To tight is not a good thing. Just saying!!
Sorry, but no way. The design how the parts are clamped against the uprights prevents this. If assembled correcty the wishbone can turn freely, even if you would significantly exceed the WSM torque value (as long as you don't crush part 11 or 12. Don't know what excessive torque would be necessary for this, but probably the bolt would snap, or the nut thread would strip before). Otherwise it would have been a very bad design. And it would be a bad idea not to follow the torque value of the WSM. Best from Germany Martin
Some things are a patience load test sometimes But I felt the necessity to correct this, because future readers of this thread should not regard that as directions how to assemble the rear suspension parts. Best from Germany Martin
I've got pics, I'll put them up later, of what happens when it's over tq'd. The bushing washer will shatter into multiple pieces. And the arm will then bind. Discovered this on a 328 with noisy rear suspension. Honestly first time I've seen it. We're not sure who did it, but this 328 was a garage queen with low milage and in pristine condition.
Interesting, that they are such strongly hardened. What makes me skeptical about the soft stainless steel parts, which are on the market. Best Martin
(Although it's always possible to have some out-of-tolerance parts) More likely the de-rotation pin was not in the hole in the thrust washer -- that will fracture the thrust washer when the bolt/nut is tightened.
Opinions? Not trying to reinvent just sayn https://www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/Compatability%20Charts/Super%20Lube%20Multi-Purpose%20Synthetic%20Grease%20with%20Syncolon%20(PTFE).pdf https://www.super-lube.com/Content/Images/uploaded/documents/TDS/Technical_Data_Sheet_Multi_Purpose_Grease.pdf
it sounds like the goal is to keep it from rusting, silicone spray or silicone based clear grease i.e. dielectric grease would do the job. a light film would repel water and not attract dirt. no need to grease up the works, just apply to the metal bits and wipe clean. FYI it's ney impossible to wipe silicone off metal, once it's on it's on and that metal surface will never be able to painted, it's considered contaminated at that point.
I think ill go with the super lube, maybe give it acheck down the road. The superlube states its ok for pfte
smg, I'm not quite sure, which washer you meant. Part 11 (post #17) or the PTFE thrust washer part 9? Are part 11 and 12 hardened and hard chromed? I thought so. If yes, what do you think about the (soft) stainless steel parts which are on the market? Best from Germany Martin
