Temp check, serpentine belt upgrade | FerrariChat

Temp check, serpentine belt upgrade

Discussion in '308/328' started by smg2, Sep 1, 2023.

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  1. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    So I'm working on another build and it's getting a serpentine belt update for the monster alternator we're using.

    Got to thinking, is this possibly something others would be interested in.

    The parts list isn't big but the water pump would be replaced to accommodate the new pulley as well as the damper. So it would be new WP, crank belt drive, alternator pulley or alternator if one wants to go with high amp. And for those with AC the compressor or the front pulley would change. Various idler pulleys and a tensioner.

    The reason is purely for the builds we do it requires a much higher amp alternator and there's no way to support that with the tiny metric V belt.

    Thought I'd ask.
    Pics of a previous build that also has a supercharger.
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  2. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    #2 ginoBBi512, Sep 2, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2023
    Looks sick, are those the rear brake rotors ? What kind of Ferrari is that ? Ive got an 89 328 with AC that works, is there a better upgrade that I can do that would improve the AC as far as belts and pulleys go. I have a brand new fuse board and a new alternator as well , I was just curious, if so I would buy them and have the local F dealership do the work, since they have to swap out the test pipe, smog it, and then have them change the oil.

    G
     
  3. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    It's an '86 328... highly modified. If I recall correctly the brakes are Japanese , but I'm not recalling the mfg. Owner had them prior to sending the car over.

    There's some vids and pics on the build here:

    https://www.instagram.com/reel/CwYzeHIJqMo/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==


    A/C is always going to be meh, doesn't hurt to keep the system in check and serviced.

    The goal of the serpentine belt is to drive the high amp alternator that's required to run all the electronics on these builds, esp this one as there's a massive high volume water pump for the Intercooler. Then there's the ECU, ignition etc..

    https://www.instagram.com/p/CUtBylZPwRf/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
     
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  4. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    Thank you Sir !

    G
     
  5. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    If I may ask, whats the cost of that insane looking motor ? , and whats the Crankshaft HP ?? Im dying to know,

    G
     
  6. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    I don't handle the cost/billing end, however I do know that custom engine builds start in the low 6 figures.

    As to HP, 450-700 depending on boost psi and other internal engine choices.

    I will say after driving the 3x8 chassis with everything from stock to 700+ HP, the sweet spot is 350-375 tops. It's a great balance for everyday drivability and pleasure. Controlling 400+ Hp with that chassis turns into a workout and will very easily get out of ones control. Sure is stupid fun though!
     
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  7. ginoBBi512

    ginoBBi512 F1 Rookie
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    Low 6 figures !! Wow, I would have ventured a 50,000 cost at most, boy was I off !!! lol

    Thank you Sir.

    G
     
  8. Vonbarron

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    I’d like some stupid fun
     
  9. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    You know........
    When the cats away, the mice will play:D
     
  10. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    When the gods want to punish us they grant our wishes. :D

    Personally, I think the sweet spot in closer to 450-500hp. 1st gear gets pretty worthless but the rest are nice IMO. I think the key is making sure the torque curve is relatively smooth, and if that's true it will behave just fine on the street.... provided the driver behaves fine too :oops:. Yes the chassis is a bit spongy but as long as both the engine and driver are smooth in their actions its quite manageable even at very high hp, mine is a sweetheart as long as I don't kick it.

    But back to belts, how many amp alternator are you driving? Mine had the poly belts originally and they were awful with even the stock 85A....it would squeal on startup and I had maybe 5 seconds to shut it down before the belt was melted. Absolutely a horrible setup that I trapped myself with on the QV engine by adding the blower in front of it leaving no room. I have a 4 rib now on the V12 and that seems quite good even with manual adjustment it's been fine so far and a HUGE improvement.
     
  11. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    Depends on application, we can get units from 180-300 amp and 4-6 rib. The tricky bit is the rpms. These are custom units with hairpin wiring but rated for stupid rpm. The alternator was born out of the hot rod build that goes to 11k rpm but can touch 13k.. alternators apparently don't like that. Had to find a builder that made them for drift & rally cars and I stumbled on the place that did/does them for HRD (Hoonigan).

    If memory serves that build was 240amp at idle. The Intercooler water pump is an amp whore (25amp). Then you've got the fuel pump... Fans, Coils... Etc.. adds up quick.
     
  12. Sergio Tavares

    Sergio Tavares Formula 3

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    How many AMPS is the new alternator?
    The car does not run off the battery but does the alternator?
    Strange one
     
  13. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    The battery should only be for starting. If the alternator is not large enough to power all the systems in normal use then the battery will discharge and the car will die or will not restart. Add an ecu (5A), 8 injectors (8×1A=8A), 8 hot coils (8x5A=40A), high pressure/flow fuel pump(20A), high flow radiator fan 25A) and the stock 85A alternator I'd more than all used up. Most newer cars are 120-150A for a reason.

    At low power around town mine seems OK with 85A, but I'm sure on a high power run it would be less happy :(
     
  14. Sergio Tavares

    Sergio Tavares Formula 3

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    Which is more?
    Battery = 880 CC Amps
    Alternator = 150 dynamic Amps

    I politely disagree with your perspective. The Battery is the center of your electrical and teh alternator should only be to top off. The car should never run on the alternator solo
     
  15. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    Then why bother to have an alternator at all ;)

    I'll give you a sort of though.

    The battery is a storage device. It provides the energy to get the system started and also stabilizes the system by absorbing peaks and filling valleys...the bigger the battery the smoother system voltage can be. It's important.

    The alternator is converting power from the engine to electrical power needed by the auxiliary systems.

    The battery voltage is about 12.2-12.5V but in normal operation the system voltage will measure about 14V-14.5V. Anytime the system voltage is above that 12.2-12.5 value the battery is charging, or drawing power from the system not providing power to the system, which means the alternator and not the battery is powering the system.

    On my car I log voltage and other than during cranking I've not seen it below 14.2 so the stock 85A alternator SEEMS ok....but I've not run lights and wiper and cabin fans yet or really. Fingers crossed it continues to be OK.

    Back of theead point, the real issue I've had in the past been the nearly worthless polybelts, but the serpentseems to have solved that
     
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  16. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    I do disagree on one point. While I do think poly belts were a bad choice, from the start of their use to the end and spending years in 2 of the worlds largest dealer service departments I have never once seen a belt failure that was not caused by either too loose a belt or a belt driven component failure. People failed regularly to tension them properly. They are not tensioned nor were they ever supposed to be tensioned like a conventional belt.
     
  17. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    Fair enough. For sure the 3 or 4 catastrophic belt failures I had over like 7 years and 15k miles were all tension related so worthless is maybe not accurate. High maintenance and subject to catastrophic failure is maybe more accurate. I've driven a lot of real junk over the last 40+years but 100% of the alyernator belt failures I've experienced were on the 308 polybelts and that is comparing something not less than 500k miles and probably closer 1million total miles on rubber belts to 15k miles on poly belts....so for me, I'm glad to be rid of them and be back to not worrying check belt tension everywhere month.
     
  18. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    I never recheck tension, never. Do it once, do it right. Your history of trouble leads to a single conclusion. I have had far too many clients with 6 figure mileage with zero belt failures to think differently.
     
  19. smg2

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    All I know is that a 7mm Polly V belt can only transmit x (load) and that load is below what we need for 180+amps.. hence the micro V serpentine.

    I'm not sitting near the power transmission engineering book, so I don't have the numbers handy. If memory serves the 7mm belt is right near the limit for 80amps @ 12v and 9-11mm gets to just over 110amps@12v but the jump to 150 and beyond gets into multiples and that's where micro v wins. It's all about the surface area of the sheave's.
     
  20. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    No one is suggesting otherwise. There is no question the stock belt drive system was at a practical limit.
     
  21. smg2

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    The choice of a 7mm V, has always perplexed me. It's a very very odd choice for an engineer to go with. Really odd. Like.. doesn't make sense odd. Had to be a bean counter thing.
     
  22. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    Well I had been saying for many years Ferrari needed to adopt a serpentine system. Since the very beginning their ancillary drive systems were at best Victorian.

    Except possibly the 400-412 belt drive which without doubt were Rube Goldberg inspired.
     
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  23. mk e

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    #23 mk e, Sep 6, 2023
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2023
    Yes, I will never own another one for any reason ;)

    Edit...i basically never drove the car stock. the first thing I did was rebuild the engine and add a blower and efi, I wonder if the extra load was just too much? Either way, hated that belt setup
     
  24. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

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    I get why they did it. The polybelt runs higher tension but is lower friction material on smaller pulleys so there is both a weight and hp savings compared to standard rubber v belts.

    It was right about the time the serpentine belts arrived but the poly belts on paper offered the same advantages but could be dropped right in place of the old v belts with almost no redesign work so win-win. Sadly they suck though.
     
  25. smg2

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    But why 7mm vs 9 or 11? The choice of 7mm is bizarre given it's very low power handling and they used it to drive both alternator and WP. We'll never know, it's just odd...
     

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