Tender question?

I always keep the tinder attached when in the garage. No starting problems so far.

 

I feel like someone else recently had this issue. Driving it more often is always a good solution as well

 

Try pushing the brake pedal very hard before hitting the start button. When the car has been sitting a while the brake pedal gets a little frozen so at times many of us have had to really push on the brake pedal to release a switch to allow the car to crank on.

 

Saying it wouldn't start is not really enough information. Slow crank, fast crank, no crank, error codes, etc. ?

 

Tim.

The battery’s are well know just to throw a cell on the 812, I would call Ferrari assist.

I sold my 812 at just over a year old with 1500 miles on, it had always been on charge, the buyer left my house, the start stop worked at the end of my drive, he drove 50 miles and stopped to top up with fuel and it would not start, just a tick when the start button was pressed, the lights would still come on, I went and waited with him for Ferrari recovery in case he needed a lift the extra 100 miles home, they jumped started it, every light on the dash came on but he made it home somehow, his dealer collected it and the battery was changed, they can go with no warning.
I know 2 other cases of this on the 812 and also with the Portofino!
Ferrari needs to start to fit decent batteries

 

I had the exact same thing happen with my GTC4 Lusso. Bad cells. I took a 90 mile drive, stopped for gas, everything fine. Get into start the car- click and nothing. It was like the battery was dead, except all the screens etc were coming on. Jump started it, fired right up. Drove 4 miles to lunch. After lunch car started. Brought it to the dealer and they said it was a bad cell or cells- they have a battery analyzer. Go figure. I think it might be a good idea to get the factory battery tested at service time and maybe after 3 years just replace it.


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disconnect the battery and reconnect first.

 

If you get a tick and then nothing it sounds like a discharged battery. If not under warranty then disconnect the battery cable and connect up a charger. A decent charger will also have a tester in it. If you can't revive it then time for replacement. Acid batteries don't make it back 100% after full discharge so maybe get it back enough to start the car and then figure out why it was drained. Not sure why the tender said it was fully charged. The new ones come with multiple indicators and charges in stages. Do the replacement and go from there.

 

The magnetic grip of the charger on the car is sometimes finicky- it may be connected enough to show its charging or charged but in reality not locked in enough to do so. I always place it then wiggle the connector a bit to ensure it is fully seated.


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Keep in mind the battery tender does not “charge” the battery, it maintains the battery.

 

I'm not sure exactly which tender comes with the 812, but they are usually some sort of CTEK. I keep all my cars on CTEK 7002 tenders which run through several steps that test, charge, analyze, and maintain the charge in the battery.

STEP 1 DESULPHATION
Detects sulphated batteries. Pulsing current and voltage, removes sulphate from the lead plates of the battery restoring the battery capacity.
STEP 2 SOFT START
Tests if the battery can accept charge. This step prevents that charging proceeds with a defect battery.
STEP 3 BULK
Charging with maximum current until approximately 80% battery capacity.
STEP 4 ABSORPTION
Charging with declining current to maximize up to 100% battery capacity.
STEP 5 ANALYSE
Tests if the battery can hold charge. Batteries that can not hold charge may need to be replaced.
STEP 6 RECOND
Choose the Recond program to add the Recond step to the charging process. During the Recond step voltage increases to create controlled gassing in the battery. Gasing mixes the battery acid and gives back energy to the battery.
STEP 7 FLOAT
Maintaining the battery voltage at maximum level by providing a constant voltage charge.
STEP 8 PULSE
Maintaining the battery at 95–100% capacity. The charger monitors the battery voltage and gives a pulse when necessary to keep the battery fully charged.

When I have a failing battery I will see errors in either step 2 (won't accept a charge), or step 5 (can't hold the charge).

Rob

 

There is also a single LED, black, oval Ferrari unit that’s not a rebranded CTEK.

It’s a pretty simple charger/maintainer and switching between the two, the CTEK seems to do more work.

 

just verifying that you unplugged the tender from your trunk plug as well as wall socket. it won't start if the tender is still connected in the trunk.

 

I've heard most of the chain auto parts stores will do free battery testing.

 

The car will start with the factory supplied tender still hooked up to the car. I have started it numerous times with it still plugged into the tender.

 

interesting, on my 2016 F12 it will not

 

I’ve started it too with the tender still attached, and once drove away and heard the pop as it detached


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The older style tender/ charger attachment cars won’t start with it attached. The newer ones will.

To the OP_ it sounds exactly like bad cell(s) in your battery. The tender will work, they car will seem like its totally fine. And then one day out of the blue, its like you have a dead battery. I suggest you replace the battery immediately. You don’t want to be left stranded. This is exactly what happened to me. Actually on a few different cars over the years.


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I'm not a Ferrari owner, but I do own a 2012 QP5 GTS. My aftermarket 3.5 year old Interstate battery failed without warning last March. I could not revive it enough with my Battery Minder 1208, so I had to do a jump start and it started immediately. I was concerned that I would not be able to restart the car after I shut it off. Not to worry, it restarted strong after charging for 10 minutes. Go figure. I then drove my car to the Mas dealer and they identified a bad cell and I had a new battery installed by them (another Interstate enhanced flooded). No problems since. Here's my take-away: Batteries can be very finicky and not give obvious warnings of imminent failure. I've changed my personal guideline from flipping every 4-5 years to 3-4 years.

 

I've done that a time or 2 lol