Tensioner bearing plate's torque amount on 308??

They are standard M8 (13mm wrench) nuts so 18/19 lbft

 

There is no static fixed torque setting for a nut of a certain size. It depends on the composition of the metals (the nut and the stud), the locking mechanism (various mechanical or chemical), dry/lubed, tpi/thread, the conditions (high vibration, etc.), it goes on an on. You can certainly start at a baseline and adjust up or down from there based on these, and many other, conditions however.

 

All true - but nonetheless, 18/19lbft & some Nylocs will do the job ;-)

(At least it better had because that's what I just used on mine ! )

 

As Cliff noted, you have to be a bit careful with this - a standard torque setting for a steel nut/stud will rip that stud out of aluminum. A torque setting applied to dry fittings produces 30% LESS tension on the fittings than that same torque applied to a fitting lubed with 30 wt engine oil. So again, especially when AL is involved, it is really important to know how the torque settings are specified.

OTOH, in reality, relatively few bolts are actually tightened with a torque wrench and they don't really need to be AS LONG AS the person doing the work has a good feel for it. I had a good friend who probably broke half the fittings he ever touched because his view was the assembly should be as tight as he could make it. When he attached a 1/2" drive ratchet/socket to a 7/16" bolt/nut head, the results were always predictable...

 

Guys,

Aren't those torque values in the WSM? Many are. I know yours is a Euro QV but I think the Mondi 8 WSM has the correct torques for those bolts we would use on an early GTSi.


I check tonight in and around packing for Krakow and post.

 

Not in the 308/328 manual hence reverting to the standard(ish) values normally used for std pitch M8 threads. 18lbft on the nut isn't going to pull a stud out the block (unless the thing is not in the block properly in the first place as above IMO).

 

Did a semi-quick look and could NOT find them in the Mondi 8 WSM either.

Sorry, I really thought they were there.

 

According to the 308 dino manual the torque is 2.5 Kg/m, Which translates to 2.2 LB x 2,5 Kg x 3.3 = 18 Ft lb.

Tom

 

Here it is
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Granted it was a quick look, but darn it, did I MISS THAT?


I looked in my Mondi 8 WSM and did not find it. I'll check again.


Maybe it was my Dino manual I was thinking of. Got to dig it up from the packing box.

 

The 308/328 Specs & Recalls doc. available from the Steve Jenkens web site has the most comprehensive set of torque specs for the 3x8s & Mondials. It's generally regarded as superceding the specs in earlier WSMs.

 

I have an issue with the tensioner studs. When I tried to remove the three locknuts, the nut didn’t come off the stud, the stud came out of the block. Is there a torque number for the stud into the block?

 

Yes....Locktite

 

4 out of 6 of mine were stripped due to the nature of the block & or to much torque. Repace the the threads with timeserts!!!!!

 

I finished stripping one. It 'gave' long before that torgue was attained.

I put in steel coil threads (Helicoil).


Drilling a Ferrari aluminum block for the Helicoil is the scariest thing I have ever done.

Walking thru a minefield in Bosnia/Croatia was easier.

 

the studs on mine are in good shape. its just that the locknuts were so stuck that the stud turned out of the block before the nut broke loose from the stud.
Do i just put put loctite on the stud and put it back in the block? no torque value?

 

I have never used locktite in the aluminum block but be very careful as the porosity of the 308 engine blocks are well known and even the most careful removal or replcement of a stud can strip easily!. I am not an expert on this but highly reccomend timeserts they are better than any other thread repair and permanent, any OEM car companies use them in their new engines... ++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,