Test pipe installed, now the car wont idle..HELP! | FerrariChat

Test pipe installed, now the car wont idle..HELP!

Discussion in '348/355' started by Lars_vet, Jul 6, 2007.

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  1. Lars_vet

    Lars_vet Formula Junior

    Feb 25, 2007
    603
    On the open road
    Full Name:
    Lars
    Installed the test pipes today. It all went smooth, started with disconnecting the battery, removed the O2 sensors and the thermo sensors. Then removed and the old cats (found the the guts of the left on was loose....), installed the test pipes, and sensors, Double schkked everything, and reconnectet the battery.

    Car fired up fine, and i let it idle at 950 rpms( without using the throttle or any electricals on the car, aka. the relearn process)

    After the car had been idling fine for 10 min or so, it startet to hunt, and it died. It starts ud just fine and revs just fine, but it wont idle!!

    Do can be wrong here..

    Can I adjust the idle?, as it seems its just to low and its trying to compensate (hunte), and the dies.

    BTW, what an ekstraordinary sound!!!
     
  2. mrpcar

    mrpcar Formula 3

    May 27, 2007
    1,114
    Chino hills, CA
    Full Name:
    Robin
    Don't know about Ferrari ECUs but typically it is going to take more than 10 minutes of idle for the ECU to relearn the map. You will need to take it out for at least a 30 minutes drive.
     
  3. Lars_vet

    Lars_vet Formula Junior

    Feb 25, 2007
    603
    On the open road
    Full Name:
    Lars
    OK.

    But its not possible to have the car idle for 10 min, its will simply die. This cant be right...?
     
  4. BT

    BT F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Mar 21, 2005
    15,291
    FL / GA
    Full Name:
    Bill Tracy
    There are two screws that adjust the idle on the throttle bodies or the intake, I forget which. Tim Stanford adjusted mine and he made sure to loosen both nuts that keep them set, then adjust both about 1/8 turn, then tighten both nuts that hold the settings. He said it is very important to keep them set the same or your car won't run correctly. I don't have any detail engine pictures or I could point them out to ya. If nobody gives you the definite answer I can take a picture this weekend and use a pointer for identifying the part to adjust. Tim did this about two years ago, and the car has never stalled at idle since then. Also, to reset the ECU I did the idle for about twenty minutes and that seemed to work fine. I have read that you are not supposed to drive the car while the ECU's are being reset.
    :)
    BT
     
  5. GeorgW

    GeorgW Karting

    Jan 31, 2004
    103
    Germany
    Full Name:
    Georg
    Hi, that sounds like a broken O2 sensor or a bad connection regarding this.

    Regards, Georg
     
  6. eric355

    eric355 Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 30, 2005
    1,230
    Toulouse (France)
    Full Name:
    Eric DECOUX
    Try to disconnect both O2 sensors, the car should idle fine without them. If not, your problem is elsewhere.
     
  7. Dr.T348

    Dr.T348 Formula 3

    Jan 8, 2004
    1,599
    Chicago NW Burbs
    Full Name:
    Richard T.
    I recently installed and reinstalled (long story) test pipes without any problem. Car runs fine. I did not disconnect the battery though. That may be your problem not the test pipes.
     
  8. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    Yup. Georg and Eric and BT have the right ideas. Could be a broken O2, or the O2 sensors could be plugged into the wrong side (i.e. left O2 on the right wiring harness connectors and vice versa) or it could be that your new free-flowing exhaust needs the idle adjustment screws opened up a bit more.

    Eric's test is the first thing that you should do. Also make note if the car behaves any differently when the motor is warm than when it was cold.
     
  9. gothspeed

    gothspeed F1 World Champ

    May 26, 2006
    10,244
    U.S.A.
    Full Name:
    goth
     
  10. cf355

    cf355 F1 Rookie

    Feb 28, 2005
    4,208
    Full Name:
    chris
    I removed my cats and installed 'gutted cats'. The battery was turned back on , and it ran with no issues (it didnot matter weather I idled the car for 10 minutes or drove the car right away).

    If does indeed sound like you have a bad cat sensor or wire.

    Note: I have found the car runs fine after disconnecting the battery regardless if I let the car idle for 10 minutes or not.
    I think if the sensors are failing the 'warm up period' is more crucial.
    When I spoke with the local dealer they reconfirmed this.

    Anyways, I didnot like sound of the 'gutted cats' and reinstalled my good cats....again no issues ( no lights and it ran fine WITHOUT THE 10 MINUTE IDLE).
     
  11. UConn Husky

    UConn Husky F1 Rookie

    Nov 11, 2006
    4,425
    CT
    Full Name:
    Jay
    Per the workshop manual, when you disconnect the battery (i.e. change ANYTHING), you need to let the car idle for 10 minutes so it can re-learn the correct parameters (with no load on the system, AC off, etc.) I haven't always done this and it seemed to work fine regardless, but going forward I'll follow this guideline...
     
  12. Lars_vet

    Lars_vet Formula Junior

    Feb 25, 2007
    603
    On the open road
    Full Name:
    Lars
    I have tried th turn the idle air screw out both a 1/2 and and a full turn, dident seem to help.

    When the car is cold it idles fine, but when its get warm it starts to huntand die. Whe i start it up the problems comes as the intake sound changes.. (going form open to closed loop right?)
     
  13. BT

    BT F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Mar 21, 2005
    15,291
    FL / GA
    Full Name:
    Bill Tracy
    Maybe a bad vacuum hose? I am not really familiar with the 348 system, but what you describe sounds like a loose or torn vacuum line.
    BT
     
  14. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    See post #8 and DO THE TEST!
     

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