Testa..Left Bank on vacation. HELP!

If it's not spark, then it's a fuel problem (unless the timing belt broke). I would start by checking power to the fuel pump and fuel pump function.

 

One electrical thing to check (that doesn't yet require getting under the car ) is the condition of the connections at the "y" white connector. The fuel pump wires are the large P (beige) and PN (beige/black) wires in the 4th and 5th positions from the right side (as viewed when facing the fuse/relay panel -- and you'll need to unplug the "x" connector first to be able to unplug the "y" connector).

If it/they are badly burned, that could be the trouble. If they physically seem OK, plug the connectors back in and measure the voltage on the P and PN wires (relative to ground -- i.e., the "-" battery terminal) with the engine running (you should be able to make contact with your voltmeter probe with the female metal terminal inside the connector even when plugged in). If they are both +12V, but the pump doesn't run, that's not a good sign for the pump itself (and the next step would be to make the voltage measurement at the fuel pump per Brian's suggestion). If one of them is not at +12V, it has to be some other upstream relay/wiring/etc. problem.

Report which situation you have and we can go from there.
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When you say left bank...

what method of diagnosis did you use...

eg... the exhaust gases from the right bank come out the left tailpipe....

just for clarification....

If you're sure spark is ok, I'd go with fuel pump/current supply problem as Steve said..

Injection system itself is VERY reliable in my experience.

 

Good Point from Ferrifixer: The left exhaust pipe is from the right bank (pass side). There is a water temp sensor on the top of the motor right behind the window that goes bad. The rubber cover rots out and connection also fails. When it does the pass bank dies or is intermittant. The guy that posted this on another list replaced the ign system (cap, rotor, wires) then computer. Turned out to be a $67 sensor. Yikes....makes you want to beat the mechanics!

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr

 

Sounds like you got off easy Flav

Seriously, do keep an eye on it/them as it's just as you said --> the connections run warm (due to the high current density at the small contact sites) --> which cooks the metal "fingers" (dropping the contact force) and oxidizes the contact surfaces --> which causes a slight resistance increase --> which causes even more heating and more resistance in a self-feeding death spiral.

Some good photos in the link/work Robert Hayden provided in this thread:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134426

of the other typically troublesome TR "white connector" connections that you should be watching. I've had to address the same three areas -- AC (the large brown and small brown wire joined in the same connector), fuel pumps (the large beige wire and large beige/black wire), and the coolant radiator fans (the large light blue wire and large light blue/black wire) -- on my TR.