Testarossa caliper assembly bolt torque

Hi new F friend,

CAn you please take some time to introduce yourself here ? F.i. where do you live (I myself in Holland/Europe) and what cat you are talking about ?

Do NOT open the calipers ! You may not be able to obtain the rieght parts ... and will be stuck then !

 

AAA +++

 

Why? The seal kits are listed by Superformance! I did my rear ones on the 308 some years ago with their kits and it worked.

 

the calipers are ATE?
if so from ATE officially you can get no sealing rings for between the 2 halfs of calipers. only the sealing ring for the piston and the dust sealing for the piston.

where you found the the seal kits at performance???
I see only the numbers 95691531 ( front ) and 95691532 ( rear ), but those are not the seal between the 2 halfs of calipers

 

Go down in the list and you'll see, I don't know why but the're listed in the hand brake parts.

Rubber seals
(PRICE FOR EACH SEAL)
Seals between both halves calliper 24606175
£1.65

 

WOW
thanks for this info ! ! !
I´m looking long time for this

 

Solved a big problem ....

 

To the OP: doesn't take long for a thread to go sideways here--yes, please fill out your profile or you won't hear the end of it--for a question like this, it helps to know year and/or model as the TR had different brakes than the 512TR and F512M.

To your question though, there is no torque listed in the Workshop Manual (WSM) in the brakes (G) or torque sections (M) so use your best judgement. Your front calipers are made by Teves or ATE (same company) and are type 2M4-42. You may find a torque elsewhere on the net as ATE was used by other Euro cars (MB and maybe Porsche?). If you don't find a torque you can look up a generic torque for that size bolt ("screw" in F terminology). I have not rebuilt mine but calipers are generally pretty stout and can take a good amount of torque.

On the Testarossa ATE added a "spacer" between the halves to set the correct width to match the thickness of the rotor. On each side of the spacer there is a small "O" ring used for sealing the spacer (4 per caliper). These O-rings don't generally come in caliper rebuild kits, thus the discussion above of where to source (Ferrari does not list a PN in their Spare Parts Catalogue (SPC).

There are old threads discussing but Ferrari switched to Brembo calipers on the 512TR & F512M, but list ATE on early 512TRs, I don't think we ever nailed down the production break-in (may have been from car#1 and the SPC was not correct--Ferrari wasn't too solid on documentation).

Go to All Ferraris to download a WSM and SPC .PDF file, you will need them.

 

A couple other points: 1) if you do find a torque, please post it here for future reference, 2) if the torque is pretty high, I recommend using a new high-quality Torx bit and removing the factory-applied gray primer paint and/or owner applied topcoat paint from the Torx recesses before torquing or you may slip/cause damage.

Let us know how it works out, and tell us more/post photos of your TR when you get a chance--fix the brakes first!!

 

Q: WHY do you want to OPEN the calipers ...e.g. is there a REASON to do so or not ?

 

When I do mine the reason will be to thoroughly clean then re-plate all three pieces (for restoration). If just doing a brake "job" (pad replacement) there is no need, and if doing a caliper refurbishment (without plating) I could also understand someone not replacing the o-rings as they aren't exposed to the environment like the other rubber components nor is there any movement (causing wear) of anything through that seal. If it was me though, I would still replace them if going that far--then every seal has been refurbished with new parts and I can perform a very thorough cleaning.

I don't think it's a big problem on a Testarossa, the only issue seems to come when someone fully disassembles and then realizes their rebuild kit does not include the o-rings. Not a big deal, just requires research & planning--I don't attempt any repair without thoroughly researching previous threads on this forum.

I am assuming the pistons can be removed without splitting the calipers.

 

Welcome to the forum Al. Your brake job sounds like a typical project for me--anything that can go wrong usually does. I like your solution though, good thinking. Hopefully you looked it up but there is a torque for mounting the calipers to the hubs--10Kgm or ~72 ft/lb. Locktite may be a good idea too so you don't have a repeat of your original problem.

If you care about originality your calipers were originally gold zinc plated. The bolts that secure the caliper to the hub were also gold zinc plated and had some gloss yellow paint hastily brushed on at the factory to indicate the bolts were torqued (you'll notice this practice all over your car). The hardware holding the caliper halves together had a medium gray paint also hastily brush-applied over the bolt heads and nuts to prevent corrosion.

Photo on left is front caliper, original plating, new gray paint. Photo on right is rear caliper, original plating, original gray, new yellow paint.

Don't forget to post some photos of your car when you can, and give us a shout when you need more help.
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302Tim thanks for the story behind the yellow paint... I was wondering about that..

 

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