testarossa clutch bleeding

Clutch uses brake fluid for operation. So if you left the hard line intact no bleeding is necessary... Your supposed to fill the transfer case at the top of the clutch housing.. When its full it runs down to the main gear box... I usually fill the gear box that way and when she dribbles out the fill opening down below, I know she if full..

R

 

Your terminology seems a little off -- filling all of the gearbox oil via plug D will automatically refill the transfer gear housing (so no trouble there). Bleeding the clutch (actuator) is a different issue (and fluid).

I've been running the Royal Purple MaxGear 75W90 without any issues (but all these F gearboxes seem slightly different in characteristic/behavior -- even on the same model). Are you saying that if you start your TR cold, in neutral with the clutch pedal not depressed (i.e., clutch shaft, transfer gears, and gearbox input shaft rotating), you get a whining noise; but, if you start your TR cold, in gear with the clutch pedal pressed (i.e., clutch shaft, transfer gears, and gearbox inpuit shaft not rotating), you get no noise?

 

I think what you are talking about here are the Limited Slip Clutches chattering. This can only occur when the rear wheels are rotating at different slow speeds (like going slowly around a sharp corner) -- so this is not your problem -- so no need for any additional Limited Slip additive yet.

Noooo! The "17 pints" is a misprint (in all TR OMs), it should be "0.17 pints" (like all of the other F models with similar transfer gears). They way that that's supposed to work is that if you introduce the bulk of the new gear oil thru plug C (until up to the bottom of the plug C hole), reinstall plug C, and then you would only introduce 0.17 pints thru plug D, install plug D, and you'd be done.

The alternative way to do it is to introduce all of the new gear oil in thru plug D -- when it comes up to the bottom of the plug C hole (let the small excess run out as it takes some time for the gear oil to fully run down), install plugs C & D, and you're done (the 0.17 pints will be naturally captured in the transfer gear reservoir because of the physical arrangement.

However, if you introduce the bulk of the oil thru plug C, install plug C, and then introduce 17 pints down plug D, you will be grossly overfilled. The fix would be to remove plug C and let the excess run out (until the level is at the bottom of the plug C hole), and then reinstall plug C.

This figure shows the physical situation of the two reservoir areas:
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Can you describe your complete method/actions that you followed? Are you now overfilled?

 

If one fills the entire transmission via port D (on top of transfer gear case), then care must be taken to allow sufficient time for the high viscosity transmission fluid to find its way to port C before considering the job done. Failure to allow several minutes will lead to transmission overfill. If the plug at C is replaced at the first sign of fluid dripping out, there is more to come. Go slow.

If you add fluid to D and wait for fluid overflow at C to indicate a full transmission case it is likely that there is substantial volume in transit.

Jim S.

 

Google the Shell Gear Oil used in your car and the you will have the answer as to whether it is Dino or synthetic.

Changing oil in your transaxle isn't going to magically create squealing bearings because it's 5 points lighter than the what you had in there before. You have something else going on in there.