Testarossa door lock removal, and window fix. | FerrariChat

Testarossa door lock removal, and window fix.

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by uzz32soarer, Apr 25, 2008.

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  1. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Well I've finally found the time (and inclination) to do a few things inside the old girl's doors.

    1. Bailey channel rubbers that the window slides in had perished just above the mirrors and had started whistling at speed.
    2. Windows were slow as a wet week in Sydney.
    3. My drivers door lock barrel will lock but won't unlock the door manually. Remote off the alarm works fine, but not manual unlock.

    I located a place here in Melbourne that specialises in older style vehicle rubbers, took the car down there and he found a rubber in stock that fitted well in the channel. $125 for both windows - 2.5 m each.

    Next was to get in touch with Rod Dickman (Fellow FChatter) and purchase a set of his wonder booster gizmos to fit inside the doors to assist power to the window motors. $114 inc postage and a wek later they had flown accross the Pacific and landed in my shed. Beautifully packaged and presented with all the gear required to fit and comprehensive instructions.

    So let the fun begin...............
     
  2. ASG 86TR

    ASG 86TR Formula 3

    Aug 23, 2001
    1,474
    New Jersey
    Full Name:
    Adam G
    Let us know how the window boosters work out.....I have not seen anything on Rod's gizmo's
     
  3. RED 4RE

    RED 4RE Karting

    Jul 18, 2005
    210
    CANADA
    Rob,
    could u pls forward me the contact info (e.mail & Ph #) for Rod D., so i can purchase a set of his "wonder booster gizmos".

    thanks very much

    red 4re
     
  4. sparky p-51

    sparky p-51 Formula 3

    Aug 8, 2004
    1,375
    klamath falls, Or.
    Full Name:
    steve
    Pix please if you have the time. One pix is worth.....well you know.
     
  5. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Rodney Dickman
    Rodney Dickman's Auto Acc's
    Web page: www.rodneydickman.com
    7604 Treeview Drive
    Caledonia, WI 53108
    Phone/Fax(262) 835-9575
     
  6. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Window gizmo's - 'bloody marvellous'

    The windows are 40% better now than they were when the motor was running and 75% better now than they were with the motor off.

    Ie: before with motor running they were okay, now they are good. When motor was off they barely moved, now they are better with engine off than when the motor used to be running.

    All in all a solid investment. It's p1ssing rain here at the moment and I've just come up out of the shed and left the camera in the Testa so you blokes can wait till tomorrow for pics.

    Long day - Windows out, window frames removed, one side bailley channel rubber completed including the tricky little 90 degree mitre cut in the top corner - yeah that was fun. Both door locks removed coz the paint was shabby. Sandblasted, primed and repainted, now drying overnight to refit tomorrrow.

    Getting there.
     
  7. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Rodney's little boxes are a treat. They arrived very profesionally packaged with all clips, silicon wiring and instructions required to do a great job.

    Very straightforward job on the Testarossa.

    Remove the door trim. 1 screw near the door latch on the trim. Four or five embedded into the carpet along the bottom and up the front edge. Slip out the door pocket. Be gentle they do break. Two 10mm head bolts in there to be removed.

    Lift the interior door handle near the ashtray and remove the screw under there. Last screw is under the top of the actual leather handle used to pull the door closed. Pop the trim at the back first and lift gently up untill it clears the window frame. Then slide towards the rear of the car to slide the trim section back that is around the mirror. Once it moves back about 5" then lift the whole trim clear. There is a small cable that conects the internal door handle to the cable pivot assembly. Push the green clip off the rod and remove the cable. Put the door card away out of harms way. Don't want to scratch it!

    If your car has never been touched there will be a double thickness plastic liner taped to the outside of the door skin behind the internal trim. There will also be a single thickness sheet on the inside of the door to direct any water that enters from the window seals and ensures that the water drops striaght down to the bottom of the door where the drain holes are. Gently remove the external liner back about 10' from the mirror end. Then fold the internal plastic back and up at a 45 deg angle away from the bottom front of the door. It will hold back under it's own pressure or hook it behind a window cable for support.

    This will expose the wires around the bottom of the window channel. You will see a large earth strap which bolts to the first bolt holding the window cable mechanism into the base of the door. Remove the nut and the earth strap.

    Again, if your car has not been opened up before, look up the front window channel about 1/3 up from the bottom. You will see a 1/2" wide strib of metal running vertically up the door with a few nuts on it. These hold the strakes on your doors. On one of these will be a gold anodised metal ring supporting the electrical cables as they come through the door entry and then go off to the vaarious aspects of the door. Locate the yellow and blue single wires and trace them down. There will be two white plastic joiner covers to help identify them. These are the window motor wires. They are yellow and blue going into the joiners and just plain grey going to the motor unit.

    Rodney supplied crimp joiners to connect his units but I preferred a soldered joint, especially given that I was splicing the winder gizmo in only an inch or so away from the Ferrari joiner. As can be seen in the following images, I bared back the grey wires and simply soldered Rodneys two grey wires straight in. Then I slipped some heatshrink tube over the solder and fused it. Then I simply reconnected the Ferrari joiners and put the plastic covers back on.

    The earth from Rodney's unit went to the bolt where the original door earth goes. I put Rodneys on first and then the original wire and nut, thereby sandwhiching Rodney's earth under the Ferrari earth and ensuring a good connection. Wiring done!

    The box placement was really easy. These units are fully sealed and impermeable to moisture so sitting them in the bottom of the door is no problem. There is a rib stiffener on the Testarossa and there is a perfect placement between the rib stiffener at the bottom of the forward window channel and the window mechanism that sits along the base of the door. The entire are here is tar painted with rust preventative and it's a sticky awful mess. Using a blade scraper I cleaned off a suitable area to locate the box and then with 4 generous dabs of silicon, I affixed the box to the base of the door. Silicon won't stick to the sticky tar mess, so clean it first.

    All in all the job shouldn't take more than an hour, unless like me, you get distracted and decide to attend to other 'issues' whilst you are in there.

    Thanks Rodney for a great and inexpensive fix.
     
  8. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Picture 1: If you are lucky and your car has not been opened too often you will have nice plastic on the inside under the door trims.

    Picture 2: Also more plastic on the inside.

    Picture 3: Shows the two grey wires that run from the joiners to the window motor and where I spliced into them.

    Picture 4: Shows where to scrape off the gunk and place your little black box.
     
  9. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    #10 uzz32soarer, Apr 28, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  10. sparky p-51

    sparky p-51 Formula 3

    Aug 8, 2004
    1,375
    klamath falls, Or.
    Full Name:
    steve
    Thanks Robert. Great pix. Seems like a simple deal to pull off.
     
  11. ASG 86TR

    ASG 86TR Formula 3

    Aug 23, 2001
    1,474
    New Jersey
    Full Name:
    Adam G
    Robert...thanks...great pics.....btw....how does the box work? I would have thought you would have to run a new 12V line and a new Ground to the door / box.
     
  12. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Yes, I expected to have to run 12v as well, but Rodney is a clever cookie. He has wired a pair of relays in such a way that this is not required. He is basicaly shortening the resistance runs thereby maintaining a good constant voltage and earth supply.

    Great part is, 1: They work and 2: No need to run extra wires.
     
  13. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    Well it took a few days to get it all done but it worked out great.

    New bailey channel rubbers fitted and done. Properley mitre cut in the corners and now the window seal perfectly with no fouling old rubbers.

    Dickman wonder window winder gizmos fitted. Great, no more slow windows.

    Door locks removed, serviced and painted. The black paint was looking decidedly second hand and is now perfect again.

    Warning and puddle lights removed, cleaned, serviced and re-installed. These have some issues which are simple to repair and which I'll elaborate on later.

    Window motors serviced and cables lubricated.

    New inner door plastic fabricated and installed. A perfect fit, and even better insulative qualities that the original Ferrari items.

    New outer door plastic fabricated. Double thickness to include the drip trays as per the factory units. Pics to come. Templates for these have been made and kep for future needs.

    About an hour more tomorrow just cleaning things up before final fitting of the door trims and it's all done.

    NEXT...................!!!!!!
     
  14. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
    3,088
    Melbourne, Australia
    Full Name:
    Robert Hayden
    #15 uzz32soarer, Apr 30, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  15. Mera

    Mera Formula Junior

    Aug 13, 2005
    768
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Rodney Dickman
  16. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jul 25, 2008
    14,117
    Amersfoort, The Netherlands, Europe.
    Full Name:
    Mel
    Anybody around who can link me further please ? The above link is not functionning anymore...?

    Or can tell me where we can buy these wonder boxes ?

    Mel in NL (Europe)
    [email protected]
     
  17. Mera

    Mera Formula Junior

    Aug 13, 2005
    768
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Rodney Dickman
    It is my web page. My web page guy is checking to see why it is not working. :(

    Rodney
     
  18. hotcello

    hotcello Formula Junior

    Jul 16, 2007
    365
    New York
    Full Name:
    Ken
  19. testamon

    testamon Formula Junior

    Aug 16, 2008
    346
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Mike O
    Does not occur. Hope to see you next week..
     
  20. Mera

    Mera Formula Junior

    Aug 13, 2005
    768
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Rodney Dickman
    Email me at [email protected]

    I also have them on ebay. Search for Ferrari window accelerators

    I have them on ebay all the time.

    Rodney Dickman
     
  21. Mera

    Mera Formula Junior

    Aug 13, 2005
    768
    Milwaukee, WI
    Full Name:
    Rodney Dickman
  22. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jul 25, 2008
    14,117
    Amersfoort, The Netherlands, Europe.
    Full Name:
    Mel
  23. apotelyt

    apotelyt Rookie

    Jun 14, 2013
    5
    Hi robert,

    I'm new in this forum and currently have a 512tr on my hands and looking Ti restore the door locks as you have done. Problem I'm facing is I'm stuck at removing the exterior door handle and door lock. Any pointers in how to get it out?

    Regards,
    David
     

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