Testarossa engine out

That is just a 2 piece connector that unplugs. No need to remove the U bolt.

 

Give it a good pull on the car side harness. It will just pop free. Leave the ubolt in place..but it will need to be removed later to get the left timing cover off.

 

Removing is easy..getting the throttle cable back in..is a bugger..

 

I made a pull tool. I took a stainless TIG welding rods and welded them together, then welded a threaded bit on the end. I feed that through the path of the cable and screw it on. As I install the engine. I just pull the cable into place. Easy.

 

I just use mechanics wire..

 

I just use strings to pull it through.

 

I use thin clear plastic tubing. Fits right on the end of the fitting.

 

Loosen the big 17mm bolt the tensioner will snap to its most extended position. Use a long screwdriver, lever in such a way to push the tensioner back to its most compressed position. Lock the 17mm bolt back. Now the belt is loose. You can remove the belt and the tensioner.

Do not ignore the cam timing.

 

Don't rely on the white marks...

 

Before loosening and removing the cam belts... get that engine to #1 TDC on compression (firing). You will find roughly the crank position by looking at the engine fly wheel and lining up PM 1-6 line to the pointer on the clutch housing. (Under the drilled cover to the right side of the engine at the back end.). At this point (hopefully you have the valve covers removed) the scribe marks on the cams will line up..or be very close to the scribe marks on cylinder 1 cam caps and cylinder 12 cam caps. Once engine is set in that position.. carry on with belt removal.

 

These are not questions I expect from someone with a nicely welded engine stand ...

 

If you mean no precats and no cats = yes, you can remove the air pump without any ramifications, but you should remove the entire system IMO (check valves, air injection manifolds, cutoff valves) to not needlessly keep "cooking" the components and close the air injection manifold ports on the cylinder heads with flat plates. However, do not disable the differential pressure valve -- it's vacuum plumbing source is shared with the air injection cutoff valve operation. (And, even if you do have precats or cats, there is no intelligent fault warning system on a TR to detect no air pump, but they will foul more quickly without a working air injection system.)

 

Ok Steve, where is the differential pressure valve?
As always, your knowledge is well appreciated.

 

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Get a shop manual? I know I know. Silly concept.