Testarossa Lead Mallet Restoration

Good job but that was far from nearly destroyed. They have traditionally been considered still usable as long as most of the lead is still attached to the handle.

Better than the wrench and hammer, get the socket, a 3/4 breaker bar and a break down cheater bar about 4 feet long. If chosen carefully it will all fit in the spare tire compartment. It is much less damaging to the wheel bolts and makes a tire change much easier.

 

Very nice job!! I restored my lead hanmer a while ago, but it never even occurred to me to pound it back into shape. Now that's on a "to do" list.

 

One of the reasons to use a torque wrench to install them. But they do get tight over time. Also helps to have someone standing on the brakes. Its why I wouldn't have a knock off car. I changed a flat on the shoulder of I10 in Fontana and it took me 15 minutes including emptying and repacking a full trunk.

 

Does it have an alarm when the set torque is reached?

 

Is there a tool that fits over a 3 pointed spinner which allows easy(ish) removal?

I will one day need to take the wheels off my BB.

 

what about this tool?

Image Unavailable, Please Login

there are much more on the market

 

Who makes that? Looks good.

 

Superformance UK sells them.

 

Regarding chocking the wheel to prevent movement, I bought an RV crank-handle chock for working on a Porsche 996. Sometimes jacking up the 996 results in 3 wheels in the air, which I wasn't comfortable with stability-wise, and the "Race Ramp" wheel chocks I had were useless on my slippery Racedeck floor. The RV chock works really well, you crank it in to lock into both sides of the tire.

Something like this might help with knockoff removal, though I haven't used it for that purpose yet.

https://www.amazon.com/ROBLOCK-Stabilizer-Trailers-Accessories-Adjustable/dp/B0BTT7DD35?th=1

Image Unavailable, Please Login

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Using a wrench and hammer will destroy the chrome. The socket will not especially if duct tape is used to protect it.

 

If the breaker bar didn't get them off a longer bar is needed. Been doing this on TRs, GTOs since 1985. Never had one a bar and socket would not remove.

 

or both?

 

Why did Ferrari choose this over lugs? Was there any advantage or was it just some type of throwback to the old TR era?

 

I have the Hill Engineering socket. I am pretty impressed with the attachment. Got to be vigilant and very deliberate with use. It's light enough to be manageable, but heavy enough to do damage if you don't remove it from the nut immediately when removing the heavy torque wrench and let it drop on contact the wheel.
That's an oops I will never @$!#& make again! But I've seen plenty of damage to wheels caused by errant knock-off hammer swings.

Speaking of tools... I use a Snap-On torque multiplier for knock-off removal. We used these all over the place on aircraft gas turbine engines, and they make fun work out of removing very large fasteners.