Testarossa message - Cyls 7-12 slow

Related to your other post

The idiot light is to warn the driver that he catalytics are getting too hot and potentially going to explode. The is a temp sensor ( thermocoupler ) that detects the temp and moreso, the temp rise that then triggers the light.

So the idea is that when your are really moving it and the light goes on, you " SLow down " to reduce the exhaisy output and let it cool.

In your case, the light is triggered even when the cat is cold. That likely means that the ECU is malfunctioning. On mine, and because we don;t have emissions here, I removed both cats and them replaced with straight pipes and a capristo exhaust

I am not a mechanic, so I well accept any ridicule or criticism

 

Likely the cat temp sensor or the 7-12 cylinder ECU is causing your idiot light problem...hopefully not the cats themselves as they are not cheap. Regardless. if the last cam belt change was done in 1999, the cam belts and tensioner bearings are due for a change again. I hope you got a great buy because that service will cost you $6500+ depending on where you have it done...and there will also be the '...while you're at it...' items like waterpump replacement, belts and hoses, ect... Good luck, the TR is a GREAT car ...I loved my former one as well as my current BB512i, its predecessor...

 

Welcome to the TR brotherhood -- send a PM to the Administrator (Rob Lay) to get your name changed.

Although your '88 is almost unused miles-wise, it is not unused time-wise, and has gone thru many small temperature and humidity cycles (even if stored well). Having a warning light ECU get flaky is a common TR problem related to moisture and time -- they redesigned it 3 times and they're all troublesome!

IMO since you paid a retail price for what I'm guessing was represented as a perfectly-functioning TR, the mechanic's statement "to cycle it off and back on after the car warmed" is grossly misleading -- like it's some sort of "normal bug" that you should accept and expect, when it is actually an indication of a failed/failing component. The fact the light (and buzzer) went out on a second try was just a random event (as was the light staying on after cold-start-up in the first place).

There is a very specific self-test (described in the US TR OM) for these warning lights that should always occur at start-up. The failure where the light/buzzer stays "on" gets noticed, but the failure where the warning light(s) never comes on doesn't get noticed, but it's just as bad.

IMO, if the self-test doesn't work absolutely correctly every time for both banks for your next 20~50 restarts (warm or cold), you should ask for a price adjustment from the Seller to replace the defective ECU(s), or they should get in and investigate/fix the problem. I'd put a 50/50 probablity on your other warning light ECU being completely dead (if the light never comes "on", it usually doesn't get noted as a problem, but it is).

 

I experienced the same situation when I bought my 89 TR in 2004. While driving the car for the first month I would occasionally get the warning light on for one side or the other after ten miles or more into a trip. At startup, the warning lights functioned just as specified. I brought it to a Ferrari dealer and both ECU's did indeed prove to be bad. Cost of parts and labor was about $1,200. No problems since.

 

Yep, somestimes they are very trying but other times you have to step back and admire their beautiful lines. The thermocouples in the cats are easy to figure out. If the light is coming on before everything else has a chance to get warm, then there is probably an electrical connector that needs cleaning. They exist to warn about a rich condition dumping fuel into a hot cat causing a meltdown. All of the connections and modules are buried between the top of the shock absorbers on the Pass side. People tend to wash their engines (like the final cleaning for a new owner) and water can get in there. You have two of everything so you can start swaping stuff side to side. Incidently, thermocouples are two solid wires and they have crimp connections that corrode or make intermittant contact. Best thing is go back and thump on the dealer to fix the problem and then get a wiring diagram and some copies of service manuals. People install test pipes to reduce the heat load and weight and backpressure (I made my own) and it makes the tubi sound incredible! Another thing to know: There's a $67 water sensor behind the back window that when it fails, causes the right bank to stop or cut-out (a dealership replaced the ign system and computer to finally find it-$5k). Also, there aren't that many of these cars so even the mechanics do stupid things and you pay for their leaning curve. My 86 started fillling up the driver distributor cap with oil. Two dealerships said the motor had to come out. The third said 20 minutes and a pickel fork and the problem was solved. The great thing about this list is the combined knowledge. YMMV

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86 TR

 

I bought mine new and drove it 140K miles. All in it cost $2.50 per mile. They
are great cars but very expensive to keep going. CHANGE THE BELTS. If one goes the motor will be destroyed. I had one go under warranty and it was a 42K warranty claim in 88. The killer in these cars is rust. When you do a major check out the chassis, repair rust and keep painted. Always change all heater hoses when engine is out. AC lines use fuel tank as a heat sink. Check those fittings as well. Slo down lights are likely a fault BUT if they're not and you fill cat with raw fuel car will burn to the ground if you don't stop.

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Forget the 355, the TR is a iconic vehicle as a Diablo/ countach. Everytimne, I jump out, I want to yell, "Freeze...Miami Vice ! The car is great. I have a 91 TR and use it as a daily driver, from the parking lot at walmart to the drive through at wendys. By the way, you have to shout your order as the mic is exactly where the cooling fans are....so they can't hear you.
The $1200 oil change is probably a full fluids change. The "slow down" lights at start up are sort of flakey. I still have this happen once in a while....I have cleaned every contact, made sure no shorts but.....still once in a while.
I hate to tell you but you are OVER DUE for a belt change. 5-6 years max ( yeah, who really gets to 30,000 ( well, I did) ) I would go back to the dealer as this is not a " fully serviced " and ready car. Don't let this one go.

Also, I would be carefull about an independent dealer for a TR. They are very expensive to maintain and can an independent back up his work if something goes wrong? Rosso Corse in FL couldn't back up their work as a major was done twice on a TR within a month. Oil was found in the cooling system due to the heads not torqued down correctly. Did they accept responsibility? Nooooo, they billed for a second major again. $7000 + $7000 but $10000 at a official dealer.....4000 lost for wanting to save!

Don't want to scare you, but don't think short term savings.....you will have the car a while so spend now and be relaxed behind the wheel.

By the way, CONGRATS !

Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !
91 Testarossa