Testarossa shifting problem

With a lot of space for motion in front of the chassis, try starting the car in 1st gear with the clutch pedal depressed:

If the coachwork lurches forward (and the car may actually start and keep moving forward so that's why you need room) = clutch is not disengaging

 

With the new Clutch and Pressure plate, have you worked out the new shim sizes?, and installed them? If not, you can add shims through the inspection plate, one at a time. There may be too much Pre-load. May be you can try to fix by adding, say a 1ml washer between the pressure plate and the flywheel. I had this problem with my Testarossa. The preload was not correct (it is double clutch) and it was very difficult to go into gear. I inserted washers (without taking the bell housing out), via the inspection hole (see attached.) and it went into all gears easily. This is more than six months ago and I've had no problems.
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Hi Sean,I think you should be talking to whoever did the work. Ifit was shifting OK prior to the service they should make it right.Did they not do a test drive? Good luck,Mike

 

Another sign the clutch may not be fully disengaging -- did you try the "start it in 1st gear with clutch pedal depressed" test?

 

NO.........

Start in first gear with the clutch DEPRESSED, not out.

If the car moves forward with the clutch in on start in first gear then the clutch is not fully disengaged like it should be when the pedal is fully depressed.

Since you can "pump it up" and get it to work OK, I think it needs to be bled again, you have air in the lines.

Take it back to your mechanic and tell him to bleed it again and get all the air out of the lines.

Alden

 

He did indicate that he repeated the test with the clutch pedal depressed, but I should've been clearer about the test conditions:

gearbox in first
clutch pedal depressed
no foot on brake pedal
no emergency brake

 

Have the clutch bled by someone who knows how to do it and definitely not the shop that put the clutch in. Sounds like you're getting set up for a big bill.

 

Yep.

 

Bleed it yourself, it's a 5 min job. PM me and I can walk you through this, super easy.

 

Go to the local hardware store and pick up a small length of clear rubber tubbing, that will fit the bleader screw. This way you can see the air bubbles egressing the system. Once you have a solid stream of fluid, without air bubbles, your done.

 

After you bleed the system, if the problem is still there, ask your mechanic if he recalculated the shim sizes. (refer WSM page E7 - ,E10). If he hasn't, then try adding 1ml shim as in previous post #3)

 

It's an easy job. Just loosen the 6 nuts that hold the pressure plate, one at a time . There should be shims (washers) between the Pressure plate and Intermediate ring. Just add to these by inserting 1 mm washer ( needs to be cut so it can be pushed over the stud). Then tighten all 6 nuts and job is done.

 

Shimming the clutch reduces the clutch clamping force. Unless you plan to drive like an old lady with a Corolla, this is playing with fire. The only thing I can image is the throw out bearing doesn't have sufficient stroke, but then you should fix that problem.

Looking at the insanely complex clutch pedal linkage

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/car-diagrams/ferrari/v12/testarossa-group/512tr/clutch-release-control-not-for-rhd.html

If these components are worn you won't get a full stroke of the master cylinder so that may be a problem. Also if the link (27 nut) is too short you won't pump a sufficient volume of fluid to the slave cylinder. It has to be as long as possible but not cutting off the master cylinder fill hole (32).

 

Shimming the clutch is not playing with fire. It is a necessary when updating the Clutch and Pressure plate. It is in the WSM that the shims must be recalculated. I had this problem after my clutch and pressure plate were reconditioned. By adding a 1mm shim solved my problem, The gears work perfectly now (and I don't drive like an old lady!. )

 

The link I posted was for the TR (single plate clutch) according to Ricambi. The pictures you posted seem to be for the older twin plate clutch. CLUTCH CONTROLS (STARTING FROM CAR NO. 80095 - 80146 CH - 80177 US) - Ricambi America, Inc.
Good luck.

 

The bleeder screw is under the air cleaner black base, helps to pull this off for access. 13mm wrench, counter clockwise to open. 1. put wrench on screw, 2. put clear plastic tubing over bleeder port 3. have helper pump up clutch pedal 4. hold clutch to floor and crack open bleeder port one thousand one- one thousand two, close it 5. pump clutch few times, repeat step 4 until there is a solid stream of fluid leaving the tube with no air bubbles.... Make sure reservoir stays full.

Hope this helps
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