Testarossa Starting Problem

The guys at Norwoods told my that my Testarossa (1986) did this too, and they put in a relay to get more voltage on hot starts. It was during the PPI and before I took delivery. If I recall correctly, the story was that the actual switch provided the solenoid current by itself without any sort of starter relay...

 

Yes, most likely a solenoid problem:

Case I -- If the click is very "soft", the solenoid plunger is maybe just shifting a little in the bore, but it's not actually moving/stroking.

Case II -- If the click is very "hard" (i.e., the solenoid plunger actually moves thru its stroke), but the starter motor doesn't spin, the switch inside the solenoid that should convey power to the starter motor (when the plunger is displaced) is bad.

Try a search here, and at the old FChat, on "Ace Electric" -- should get you many threads on the Case I type of failure (some add a relay, as James mentioned, to increase the voltage applied to fire the solenoid, and some just get a better solenoid that can fire reliably at the reduced voltage). If Case II, no option but to get a replacement solenoid.

 

Start at the battery and clean and tighten connections (don't miss the place where the ground cable attaches to the frame).

Make sure the battery is in good condition and fully charged.

Clean and tighten the connections at the starter.

It is also a good idea to remove the starter (very easy) and wire brush the area where it bolts up to the bellhousing.

Clean and tighten the engine ground strap(s).

This is the easy stuff. If it's still a problem it is likely time for a starter rebuild.

 

Check the plastic battery cable quick disconnect under the car. It's near the engine and is there for engine-out services. The plastic may be cracked, resulting in poor contact between the two ends of the positive battery cable. This happened to me. Be sure to turn the battery switch off before wiggling this connector around to prevent a direct battery short circuit.

 

What about a heat shield for the starter? I had a different car do this for years until I fashioned a heat shield and that was it. Turned out excessive engine heat due to exposure to an exhaust pipe. Maybe this is an issue with the TR. I should mention that the heat killed a few starters and solenoids before we came to this conclusion.

 

A good idea for a lot of cars but on a Testarossa the starter couldn't be farther from the exhaust unless you left it at home.

It is right on top of the engine, underneath the air intake scoop.

You can remove it without getting your hands dirty (depending on the car of course).

 

There are three to four connections between the ignition switch and starter. Look for them and replace the connectors. It solves the problem all the time.

 

Also, there is a large connector at the left fender, when looking at the engine bay from the rear, round If I remember correctly, make sure you have good connection there.

Mine did the same thing and I found it to be this connection.

 

On my 512TR the cable disconnect was in bad shape when I pulled the engine out. I don't know exactly where it is on a TR but on the 512 it was on the forward side of the engine. Trace the cable from either the top or bottom to find it. I don't know how mine started at all with the corrosion where these two cables met. They simply plugged into each other. The plastic around the terminals was bad so I soldered on two lug type terminals and bolted them together. Several layers of heavy heat shrink protect from grounds. They shouldn't have to be disconnected until the engine comes out five more years down the road. Provided there is no catastrophe bringing it on sooner.
Ron

 

I had this problem before, and tried replacing with the new solenoid. Still had the same problem. While I having my 30K service done a few months ago, I mentioned it to my mechanic, and he said it's pretty common issue.
Don't quote me on this since I'm not a electrician or a mechanic, but I believe he explained as it gets hotter, the wires running from the battery to the solenoid is not able to conduct/pass enough of the 12V to trigger the solenoid.
The solution is to install a relay which only requires a minimal amount of voltage for it to trip, and send the 12V from the battery to the solenoid or starter(sorry I can't remember which, but I guess I can pop open the hood to look if you need it).
So far so good. I hate that feeling of getting stuck at a gas station after a good drive.

 

Obviously, many of us have had this problem -including me. I purchased the Ace solenoid and an Optoma battery for extra power. Worked very well. But the car went to Norwood Peformance for turbo mods and James installed a new relay without hesitation. They don't fool around so I would never question them. Never had a problem since. Give James a call for advice on this permanent fix. Nothing is more frustrating/embarrassing than having a fun car and the motor won't turn over (especially if you have a nice passenger)

 

I had the exact same problem on my 94' TR. My local ferrari dealer install a new pair of bypass wiring and new relay for the starter wiring to solve the problem. Total cost we US$100.

 

Talking to my electrical engineer, he noted that when the solenoid gets hot the efficiency of the coil is reduced (commonly called heat soak). This reduction in efficiency along with any external resistance (friction) would reduce the effectiveness of the solenoid. A more efficient solenoid or more juice to the present one will increase it's efficiency. Alas, I too have this problem and have just finished taking the solenoid apart. I measured the diameter of the piston and someone before me has reduced the diameter (so that theory has been shakened). I will need to run it for a while and see if there is an improvement.
John

 

Try a search. There are several good threads discussing this topic.

 

Having the problem on my 93 512.
Does anyone have a detailed diagram of the
relay solution ?

 

Sounds like I have the same issue. Does yours also affect the lights? ( make them surge ). I searched and found the responses. It sounds like a relay is the answer, but do you know where it goes or what kind?

 

So where do you hook up this relay? Do you hook it up between the battery and selenoid with a 12volt turn on lead?

 

take a look at this
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2593146
looks like a quick low cost solution

 

Anyone have pictures of the relay they installed? Where can you get one (part number etc.)? Also, I tried replacing the starter solenoid and the screws on the housing wouldn't budge. Tried using WD-40 etc., nothing! Screws won't budge. Anyone have this problem? Is there something I'm doing wrong? If any of you have replaced the solenoid, please post an explanation of how you did it, i.e. procedure and any pictures you might have.

 

Use a manual impact screwdriver. Buy it at Sears for $15. Hold it on the screw and whack it with a hammer and I guarantee that screw will come off.

WD 40 is almost useless for loosening screws and nuts. Use a penetrating spray like Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
Buy it at Wal Mart for $3.
It may not help right away because the fastener might be very long.

 

Dear Ferraristi,

These are not jury-rigged happy go lucky fixes.

The relay to the starter is a time tested permanent fix ....to one possible problem.

I have it on my daily driver 91 TR....no problems


Shamile


Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

This is doing it the hard way. It's much better to remove the whole starter assembly and do the solenoid replacement on the bench -- this gives you a chance to lubricate/check the pinion gear sliding mechanism and the pinion gear.