Testarossa timing belts (Major) on a QuickJack ?

I have the HE bearings, the gearoil but no time
My 356 let me down this summer, the e-type let me down this summer.

When I drained the gear oil last year I couldn’t loosen the front most drain plug. I have the tools but I don’t want to force it.

It is raining outside and now is the time to fill up with Maxgear!

Any idea how much oil that would be left when that plug has not been undone?

The other large plug was open for weeks at that time.

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login The one plug closest to cabin sit «too hard for comfort»..

 

I just filled 9 quarters through the filling hole in the clutch housing… suppose I have to check level tomorrow oil is distributing sloooowly to the rearmost filler plug.

 

Rotating the wheels did the job, 9.7 liters went in at 20 degrees C.

 

All the fluids are finally in, thoroughly bled the brakes and clutch.

The clutch was a little difficult to start with but trick seem to be to keep the reservoir fluid on or above "Max" mark while bleeding the clutch. The fluid inlet to clutch master is way up on the reservoir and if you accept level to drop you have to start over again.

I bought a case of Redline water wetter and will add a bottle when I get the engine running. It may or may not work well.

The OEM Euro exhaust had a crack and I welded (MIG brazed) it with CuSi wire and argon, it is ready to mount but we want that 12 on straight pipes not? Am tempted to order a Larini system (4 box version) to get rid of those 4 mufflers that build up the system.

The car sit perfectly on the QuickJack, wheels off to get access to radiators and brakes. I took some pix to show how it sit on the lift, IMO the QuickJack is a very good unit for the Testarossa.

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Thanks for the kind words, progress is slow but somewhat steady. Before startup and tuning I have a few minor and one major job to do.

I will fabricate the three aluminum pieces under the front bumper, for the center piece I dont have access to louvering tools the width of the original but I will make a row of 2 or 3 narrow louvers. The mesh under the AC evaporator is easy to replicate and the piece under the battery is even less hassle.

The last major item is fitting a new exhaust, the OEM 4 box Euro is too bulky and I decided to order a phase2 system from Larini, it replace the OEM with a one piece system all the way from tips to manifolds.

 

Nothing new, spring is weeks away, at 14 April and I still have not gotten the Larini system, this is kind of annoying. Ordered and paid for the system early November 2021, 6 Months ago and still no exhaust.

https://www.larinisystems.com/collection/ferrari/testarossa-corse/larini-sports-exhaust-system-oe-4-box

 

Yes, UK made and they said 6-8 weeks lead time.

I'll give them a little slack for Covid but now is the time to (build) and send me my exhaust!

 

Yes they have to build them, at least that is what they say. Maybe they are waiting for a package from Taiwan?

 

"Back again" and ready to drive but I have a non start issue. Seem to be no fuel delivery , it started fine before I had the engine out though and I may have forgotten to hookup something.

Maybe an issue with the sensors, I dont remember if the tacho was jumping all over on cranking before I took he engine out but it sure jumps now.


That would have been something ...
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Hehe, yes this is more like it, still need to chase down the lack of fuel.


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Cleaned the fusebox and replaced one 15A fuse for the fuel pumps, after a little cranking I now smell fuel but no spark.

Initially the car did fire slightly on what must have been old fuel the first 5-10 secs after engine out but could not get up to revs or start. Now it does not fire at all.

I have checked spark at left side with strobolight, nothing from coil to distributor. I will check on right side today just in case. The coils have 12 volt.

Both TDC and rpm sensor measures around 0.71K Ohm, seem to be good I guess from what I found about similar sensors on the internet.
I took them out and reinstalled after wiping them down and since they worked before I guess the distances to the flywheel is correct.

With ignition on the multimeter show low voltage on most of the ports into the ignition module, not sure whether one of them should have a little more, I will have to print out a few wiring diagram now and debug. Also my '85 have one ignition module only for all I can see but most references on the internet cover 2 modules but its been running fine so that surely ain't a problem.

 

I tried to read up on ignition problems, however no time for working in the garage. My ICU have just a few connections compared to later models.

The iPhone is a good helper when one cannot see what is going on, just line it up and shoot a video while cranking to verify if there is a spark. Just place the phone, start recording, sit down and crank. Go back check video.



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I will go over the connections again and see that all is hooked up, from what I see there is no relay on the right rear inner fender in my car?

 

It's been a busy month, little time to look at the no spark situation.
I will try to be systematic and started with the connectors under the overflow tank, took them out and gave them a good cleaning to no avail.

US owners manual page 70 had a decent diagram, even if mine I Euro it look very similar. Having read up a little more I will start looking at:

• tachometer relay
  • definitely something strange going on as tacho will sometimes be at 0 rpm when cranking then jumping to 3-4k rpm
• "U" relay
• coils
• fuel pump and starting injector relays
• fuse 19, 20, 21
• throttle microswitch
• ??

 

I took out the Tach relay today, it may be in need of replacement.

Before I took it out the dash lamps were on/working as they should but no tach / jumpy tach and no firing up.

Out with the relay, clean the spades and put a little dielectric grease on them. Plugged relay in again and this time no dash lamps. I did not find time to test hot wiring 30 to 87.

I did measure around 3.5-3.8Volts on coils and towards the ignition ECU as well. That was before the relay was taken out. I did not measure it with the dark dash situation but will hot wire 30 to 87 next time and see what we get at the engine bay.