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Testarossa Top Of Engine Refurbish

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Shamile, Nov 9, 2010.

  1. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    When you change your own oil cut open the filter and look for bits of metal. Also drain the transaxle in to a clean container and do the same. The transaxle drain should of gave some evidence of something not right.





    Ago
     
  2. Maranelloborn

    Maranelloborn Karting

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    Could you describe a little more in detail what we are looking at with this photo Testamon.

    I'm interested in learning as much as I can about the diff carrier issue, and what it would take to correct the problem, Parts Labor etc... I could likely remove the lump myself and handle disassembly, but is it realistic to be able install a new Differential and set the end-play and proper clearances. Or is this something that needs to be preformed at an experienced shop? I have heard stories of differentials installed incorrectly, and being a LSD it seems more complex. BTW I'd love that engine in my Man Cave over the winter as a Coffee table..its that clean!
     
  3. testamon

    testamon Formula Junior

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    If I can figure how to remove this from Shamiles Thread I will and I will place it in checking Diff with borescope thread... Sorry to hijack your refurb Shamile!
     
  4. Maranelloborn

    Maranelloborn Karting

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    Same here.... My apologies, lets get back to the thread topic of Top End Refurb and the bonus pics..
     
  5. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran
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    Dear Ferraristi,


    BUSTED !!


    600 miles...hmmm...I do that in a couple of weeks...


    Shamile

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  6. testamon

    testamon Formula Junior

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    Shamile I would have love to have done much more, however as we all know in Testarossa world things break. Hopefully not long till back on road!
     
  7. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
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    Hey there Mr. Shamwow...Long time, no speak. I must that even for a Lambo guy with all that tempting tail around, you still do very nice work!

    Best,
    David
     
  8. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran
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    Dear Ferraristi,

    Thank you for the kind words....especially coming from a professional tech. like yourself. :)


    Shamile

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  9. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran
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    #59 Shamile, Nov 20, 2010
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  10. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran
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    #60 Shamile, Nov 20, 2010
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  11. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran
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    #61 Shamile, Nov 20, 2010
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    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Moving along....

    2. Moving along............

    3. Moving along......................

    4. With all the closed valves done. Now it's time to rotate the engine so the open valves will close.

    The way to rotate the engine is to go to the flywheel gear (under the perforated cover) and using a flat blade push gently against the bell housing casting....using a cloth to prevent any scratching. You want to make sure you are rotating in a clockwise direction ( as seen from the front of the car) ...rotate towards cyl 7/12 bank.

    Credit for this method goes to my local F-pimp Central Florida Ferrari. My service manager Rocky and F tech. Troy, showed this to me on a 512 TR in their service bay. They actually took the time to open the cover, place the blade in the gear tooth and showed me which way to push and how. ....can't beat that for great service....thanks guys.. :)


    Shamile

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  12. Sandy Eggo

    Sandy Eggo F1 Rookie
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    Well, with the weekend here, I knew it was time to check back in on Shamile's exploits.

    Wow, looking good...the engine refurb ain't bad either! :D
     
  13. Shamile

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    #63 Shamile, Nov 20, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,


    1. Rotating the engine using a blade or large flat-head screwdriver in the flywheel gear...

    2. With some more closed valves (not all ) pour more GM Top End Cleaner into the intake and cover....do not open till x-mas...naw...4 more days. :D

    3. All closed valves with cleaner marked with tick.


    While I'm waiting for the cleaner to do it's job, I'll now move on to Dave Helms (Scuderia Rampante) gold connector replacements for the coolant sensors. Pix soon....


    Shamile

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  14. Sandy Eggo

    Sandy Eggo F1 Rookie
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    Smart, very smart. The coolant sensors are a low voltage sensor which could have all sorts of knock-on ill effects if sending bad information. I'm no mechanic but that's what mine told me while we were doing my gold connector kit on the F355 and found my coolant sensors to be in terrible shape.
     
  15. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

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    Cleaning the intake valves too !!!! Wow Shamile...your attention to detail is exemplary. Are the intake valves on the TR prone to deposits and crud? Can you elaborate on this process...I must admit my knowledge about that procedure is lacking...
     
  16. Spasso

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    All of the intake valves on all of the opened up engines I've seen have build-up behind the head of the valve. Some not so bad through the use of top tier fuel, others looked like a growing science project of carbon deposits, BIG chunks of the stuff..

    I think the differences are due to how the engines were used and maintained as well as the differences in the type of engines.
     
  17. Shamile

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    Dear Ferraristi,

    Well, I will say, Dave Helms suggested this to me and even sent me everything to do the sensors free. He just felt so strongly about while I was "in there". On Monday, I'll be ordering for the cold start valves and injectors....cause....."while I'm in there" of course.



    When I removed the intakes, I was kinds shocked that I had alot of crud on the back of all the valves. When I started taking things apart, I noticed that the 1/6 fuel meter plate didn't return to full close with ease....it would but eventually. So..the 1/6 side was getting too much fuel and running rich. BUT....the 7/12 side running just fine was also full of crud.
    Now, this is a surprise for me as I use Chevron Techtron once a month or so...and shift gears at redline....all the time.
    It really did look like the overstated picture on the Chevron package. Well I use the stuff and it's didn't look like the "after" photo either...haha. I didn't know what cleaner to use so I asked Dave Helms. He recommended the GM cleaner. The stuff really works. The crud was so heavy, I had to leave it in there for a few days and scrub it off with a tooth brush. While the crud was soft, I also picked it off CAREFULLY with a pic tool....and vacuumed it all away. Not one bit of crud was left to be ingested into the engine upon start-up.

    I wouldn't be surprised if there is more likely to have heavier deposits on the TR valves as we all know TR's like to run a little rich...well, what I've always read on the forum.
    My settings and balance was done by my local Fpimp a few years ago and runs smooth.


    I could be overstating what I saw...but it looked alot to me. I really expected to see nothing there....



    Shamile

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  18. Shamile

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    #68 Shamile, Nov 21, 2010
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  19. Mr.Chairman

    Mr.Chairman F1 Rookie

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    Carefull with those scissors... Snip the plug leaving just enough wire on the plug so you can identify.. then cut the shrink tube at the rear of that insulated glob,t then pull forward.. New boot will protect all wires once installed... Remember... boot first.. then splice crimp and install..

    R
     
  20. Shamile

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    #70 Shamile, Nov 21, 2010
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  21. Spasso

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    Ideally the valves should be spotless all the time but because the dirty nature of internal combustion engines that isn't going to happen. What you are doing is a good thing as long as no chunks of carbon are left behind to scratch up your cylinder walls (and other stuff).

    If you REALLY want to see something dirty, look at the exhaust valves on an engine that is torn apart at your local machine shop.
     
  22. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ
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    Ha ha, I spent DAYS doing what you are doing to ALL of the connectors in my engine bay last winter.

    If you want consistent performance of the fuel injection, emissions and ignition I strongly suggest getting the entire kit from Dave, "while you are in there".

    You could have one of your "helpers" wipe your brow while you work.
     
  23. Mr.Chairman

    Mr.Chairman F1 Rookie

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    Hey Shamile... when you insert the extractor tool... push the old terminal in a bit as you push the extractor... She will pop out much easier..

    R
     
  24. Shamile

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    Dear Ferraristi,


    You are exactly correct Robbie. I'm just posting an overview of what I'm doing. The full instructions from Dave Helms covers everything you say. As I'm posting , I'm now doing the crimp connectors. I've come across a weird resistor soldered into the temp sensor (brown plug) I'll post it for comment.



    HI Spasso. I really want to do the full system but if I start, it will be one thing after another and I'll never get the car back on the road. It's soooo tempting once you start though.

    I'm going to order the rest for the top of the engine....that's it. On a next project, I'll go further... :)


    Shamile

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  25. Shamile

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    Dear Ferraristi,

    Ahh....cool...thanks... :)


    Shamile

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